Sunday, May 31, 2009

Bukcheongol (Seoul)

To be honest, this is not my favorite place for gopchang* (small tripes and intestines), but it's the closest to home : on Gyeonghuigung 1-gil, very close to Saemunan-gil, among the first houses giving on the newly rearranged plaza in front of the Seoul Museum of History.

Not memorable, including for the atmosphere, but perfect when I need a quick fix of gopchang jeongol (stew 곱창전골) or gopchang gui (grilled 곱창구이). About 20k wons for two. Among other "massive" classics on their menu : budae jjigae.


1-151 Shinmunro 2-ga, Jongno-gu, SEOUL, ROK 110-062
Bukcheongol / 북천골 (restaurant)
Tel: +82.2.720.3550

* for gopchang gui, there's that one about to be destroyed in Wangshimni New Town, plus that minuscule shanty marvel lost in my memory not far from Dehangno

Saturday, May 30, 2009

Gogi SSam Naengmyeon (Seoul)

"Meat and cold noodle combo"... here again, the name tells it all. The price too : KRW 5,000 for the standard pack plus 500 wons for the bigger size. Cold noodles alone go for 4,500, so most people come for the pack.

In Myeong-dong more than anywhere else, restaurants cannot survive if they don't taste good. This one could increase prices by almost 30% overnight (until March 27, noodles were at 3,500) without losing its momentum : during rush hours, you may still have to queue after twenty people (about 10-20 mn should do).

Gogi Ssam Naengmyeon is so successful it opened a second restaurant down the same narrow street (even after Myeongdong's revival, the least glamorous part of the maze). I never tried that second one, which looks narrower and less comfortable, but stretches over three floors. Both have a view on the street, but more customers can enjoy it in the original - and wider - building.

Food now. Noodles come in the two usual varieties : a standard mul naengmyeon (in icy water), and a killer bibim naengmyeon ("mixed") with a mean red pepper powder you can tame with the free hot chicken feet broth. The pork is well seasoned and grilled - formatted for local taste buds, but not toooo sweet.

You pay in advance and have to help yourself to water and broth, but dishes are served at your table, which you don't have to clean afterwards.

Overall : definitely not haute cuisine, but definitely a yummy bargain in a friendly atmosphere.

Thus the success in such a demanding area. Young pairs make most of the clientele, and you often see two friends sharing one pack, but not necessarily for a question of budget : you cannot BOTH enjoy many Myeongdong street snacks AND swallow this pack.


SM 200905


Gogi SSam Naengmyeon / 고기쌈냉면 (restaurant)
no telephone / no reservation / no frills

no address either ! On the west side of Myeong-dong 2-gil, across the Savoy Hotel, at the frontier between Chungmuro 1-ga and Myeong-dong 2-ga. My best guess, after checking the map : 22-2 Chungmuro 1-ga.

see other restaurants in Seoul and Korea.

Thursday, May 28, 2009

A Yellow Sea For Roh Moo-hyun


Downtown submerged by a tsunami of yellow ribbons, arm bands, hair pins, hats, and balloons.

Not at the Gyeongbokgung today : the color of Roh Moo-hyun's campaigns was strictly forbidden at the site of the official ceremony.

Also forbidden : Kim Dae-jung's eulogy for his successor. This request from the family was turned down by his successor's successor... a measure of respect to other former Presidents according to Lee Myung-bak, a setback for democracy according to the 2000 Nobel Peace Prize laureate.

Also forbidden : Seoul Plaza, closed to mourners until today, for fear of a remake of last year's massive demonstrations. Roh sympathizers improvised the first altar just across the street, in front of Deoksugung's gate, the very morning when he died*. Local and foreign V.I.P.s waited for a more exclusive altar to be opened, a few days later, at the Seoul Museum of History. Both sites felt silent, but one did sound a little more sincere than the other.


Above, the head of the convoy on Sejongno, as it leaves Gyeongbokgung for Seoul Plaza and Roh Moo-hyun's Yellow Sea of supporters.

Right, Roh's collaborators, following the deceased and singing the song that cemented their cause for democracy.


* See "Roh Moo-hyun follows Pierre Beregovoy".

Wednesday, May 27, 2009

Seoul 25 "Gu" - Seoul Map


(This clickable map links to all posts related to each district with - you can also navigate on our google powered Seoul Village map)



View Seoul Village in a larger map

From Jung-gu - the smallest - to Seocho-gu - the biggest -, Seoul boasts 25 "gu" (districts) over 605.25 km²:



Dobong-gu (도봉구) - dobong.go.kr
Created in 1949.
20.8 km² - 381,000 inhabitants - 15 administrative dong (4 main).
To name a few : Dobongsan (mountain), Yonsangunmyo...

Dongdaemun-gu (동대문구) - ddm.go.kr
Created in 1943 (initial 7 gu).
14.2 km² - 386,000 inhabitants - 26 administrative dong (10 main).
To name a few : Seoul Yangnyeonsi (traditional medicine market), antique and flea markets, Royal Joseon Tombs, Dongdaemun Design Plaza area... Note that Dongdaemun itself (Heunginjimun) is located in Jongno-gu.

Dongjak-gu (동작구) - dongjak.go.kr
Created in 1980 (split from Gwanak-gu).
16.35 km² - 405,000 inhabitants - 17 administrative dong (8 main).
To name a few : Noryangjin Fish Market, National Cemetery, Boramae Park, Sayuksin Park...

Eunpyeong-gu (은평구) - eunpyeong.seoul.kr
Created in 1979 (separated from Seodaemun-gu).
29.7 km² - 443,000 inhabitants (2000 - to improve dramatically with Eunpyeong New Town) - 20 administrative dong (11 main).
To name a few : Bukhansan, Bukhansanseong (fortress wall)...

Gangbuk-gu (강북구) - gangbuk.seoul.kr
Created in 1995 (another Dobong-gu spin off)
23.6 km² - 341,000 inhabitants - 18 administrative dong (9 main).
To name a few : Bukhansan...

Gangdong-gu (강동구) - gangdong.go.kr
Created in 1979 (split from Gangnam-gu)
24.5 km² - 469,000 inhabitants (2007) - 18 administrative dong (9 main).
To name a few : Amsa-dong Prehistoric site...

Gangnam-gu (강남구) - gangnam.go.kr
Created in 1975
39.5 km² - 557,000 inhabitants - 26 administrative dong (12 main).
To name a few : Apgujeong-dong, Cheongdam-dong, Teheranno, COEX, Solleung, Jeongneung Royal Joseon Tombs...

Gangseo-gu (강서구) - gangseo.seoul.kr
Created in 1977 (scission from Yeongdeungpo-gu)
41.4 km² - 557,000 inhabitants - 22 administrative dong (8 main).
To name a few : Gimpo Airport, Yangcheon Hyanggyo...

Geumcheon-gu (금천구) - geumcheon.go.kr
Created in 1995 (split from Guro-gu).
13.0 km² - 257,000 inhabitants - 12 administrative dong (3 main).
To name a few : Samseongsan, Anyangcheon...

Guro-gu (구로구) - guro.go.kr
Created in 1980 (split from Yeongdeungpo-gu).
20.1 km² - 416,000 inhabitants - 15 administrative dong (7 main).
To name a few : Guro Digital Industrial Complex...

Gwanak-gu (관악구) - gwanak.go.kr
Created in 1973
29.57 km² - 522,000 inhabitants - 21 administrative dong (3 main).
To name a few : Seoul National University, Gwanak-san, Nakseongdae...

Gwangjin-gu (광진구) - gwangjin.go.kr
Created in 1995 (separated from Seongdong-gu)
17.05 km² - 381,000 inhabitants - 15 administrative dong (8 main).
To name a few : Children's Grand Park, Techno Mart, Ttukseom...

Jongno-gu (종로구) - jongno.go.kr
Created in 1943 (initial 7 gu).
23.9 km² - 180,000 inhabitants - 87 administrative dong (19 main) - see Seoul Village focus on Jongno-gu dongs.
To name a few (impossible to list all attractions of Seoul's historical center) : palaces and shrines (Gyeongbokgung, Changdeokgung / Changgyeonggung, Jongmyo, Gyeonghuigung, Unhyungung, Sajik-dan...), museums (National Palace Museum, Seoul Museum of History, National Folk Museum of Korea, corporate museums...), art galleries (particularly near Insadong, Shinmunro, Pyeongchang-dong, Sogyeok-dong...), touristic areas (Gwanghwamun Square / Sejongno, Cheonggyecheon, Insadong, Bukchon, Samcheong-dong, Jogyesa temple...)...

Jung-gu (중구) - junggu.seoul.kr
Created in 1943 (initial 7 gu).
9.96 km² - 135,000 inhabitants - 74 administrative dong (15 main).
To name a few : Sungnyemun (Namdaemun gate), Deoksugung, SeMa, Namsan (and the National Theater of Korea), Namdaemun market, Myeong-dong, Shinsegae and Lotte main department stores... Shared with Yongsan-gu : Namsan (N Tower is on the Yongsan part of the mountain) and Seoul Station (the original building belongs to Jung-gu, KTX area lies on Yongsan turf).

Jungnang-gu (중랑구) - eng.jungnang.seoul.kr

Created in 1988 (formerly a part of Dongdaemun-gu)
18.5 km² - 441,000 inhabitants - 20 administrative dong (6 main).
To name a few : Yongmasan, Jungnangcheon...

Mapo-gu (마포구) - mapo.seoul.kr
Created in 1944 (from Seodaemun-gu and Yongsan-gu).
23.87 km² - 393,000 inhabitants - 24 administrative dong (16 main).
To name a few : Hongdae area, Sangam (and Seoul World Cup Stadium), Digital Media City...

Nowon-gu (노원구) - nowon.kr
Created in 1988 (split from Dobong-gu).
35.44 km² - 619,000 inhabitants - 24 administrative dong (5 main).
See Nowon-gu maps and this focus.To name a few : Nowon Station area, Suraksan, Buramsan, Taegangneung, Jungnangcheon and Danghyeoncheon...

Seocho-gu (서초구) - english.seocho.go.kr
Created in 1988 (from Yeongdeungpo-gu / Gangnam-gu)
47.1 km² - 402,000 inhabitants - 18 administrative dong (10 main).
To name a few : Seoul Art Center, Heoninneung, Express Bus Terminal, Seorae Maeul (Seorae Village or "Little France")...

Seodaemun-gu (서대문구) - eng.sdm.go.kr
Created in 1943 (initial 7 gu).
17.6 km² - 356,000 inhabitants - 20 administrative dong (14 main).
To name a few : Seodaemun Prison and Dongnimmun (Independence Gate), Bongwonsa (temple), Yonsei University, Ewha Womens University and Sinchon...

Seongbuk-gu (성북구) - english.seongbuk.go.kr
Created in 1973 (from Dongdaemun).
24.5 km² - 470,000 inhabitants - 39 administrative dong (20 main).
To name a few : Uireung, Seongbuk-dong, Bugak skyway, Gaeunsan, Sukjeongmun (Bukmun)...

Seongdong-gu (성동구) - sd.go.kr
Created in 1943 (initial 7 gu).
16.85 km² - 325,000 inhabitants - 20 administrative dong (17 main).
To name a few : Seoul Forest...

Songpa-gu (송파구) - songpa.go.kr
Created in 1988 (from Gangdong-gu)
33.9 km² - 650,000 inhabitants - 26 administrative dong (14 main).
To name a few : Olympic Park and Olympic Sports Complex, Lotte World and Seokchon Lake, Garak Market, Seongnaecheon...

Yangcheon-gu (양천구) - yangchon.seoul.kr
Created in 1988 (from Gangseo-gu).
17.4 km² - 485,000 inhabitants - 18 administrative dong (3 main).
To name a few : Yongwangsan, Anyang creek...

Yeongdeungpo-gu (영등포구) - english.ydp.go.kr
Created in 1943 (initial 7 gu).
24.5 km² - 439,000 inhabitants - 33 administrative dong (18 main).
To name a few : Yeouido (park, National Assembly, 63 Building...), International Finance Center, Bamsom, Yeongdeungpo Park...

Yongsan-gu (용산구) - yongsan.go.kr
Created in 1943 (initial 7 gu).
21.9 km² - 239,000 inhabitants - 36 administrative dong (16 main).
To name a few : National Museum of Korea and Yongsan Family Park, Itaewon, Leeum, Central Masjid (Mosque), Yongsan US Army Base (to be relocated in Pyeongtaek in 2013 and replaced by a central park), War Memorial of Korea, Namsan (and N Tower), Hyochang Park, Yongsan Electronics Market...


Map of Seoul districts : source creative commons (dxf-Data by Ralf, png by Stefan-Xp, labels by iGEL), customized with links (by Stephane MOT)

Friday, May 22, 2009

Roh Moo-hyun follows Pierre Beregovoy

When I read this morning about the tragic fate of former President Roh Moo-hyun, I thought about Pierre Beregovoy, Francois Mitterrand's last prime minister who supposedly committed suicide while under investigation for corruption.

Suicide or not suicide, this not the issue here. Both Beregovoy and Roh came from modest backgrounds, succeeded in politics as outsiders, and ended up in a tragic fate, soon after leaving the top, their main asset, the positive image on which they built their successes, shattered to pieces.

This morning, I made this stupid dream* that Roh's final bow could wake up Korea, help it reconsider politics, put down the guns, and start a vast operation of transparence. To help talents truly motivated by change emerge from the crowd, but also to protect them as they climb to the top of this beautiful yet slippery mountain.


* see my blogule : "
Roh Moo-hyun, le promeneur du champ de mai"

Happiness according to Le Clezio

A refreshing and peaceful afternoon at Kyobo Life's headquarters, listening to Jean-Marie Gustave Le Clezio talking about representations of happiness in literature.






Somehow, the "happiness in literature" coming from writing or reading went without saying.

Praise The Daesan Foundation and Ewha Womens University for this moment.



PS : I feel too relaxed (and yeah, probably also a little bit too lazy) to translate the miserable blogule I spilled in my native language ("Le bonheur selon Le Clezio").

Thursday, May 21, 2009

Jongno-gu dongs

Seoul's 600 year-old center, Jongno-gu, stretches over 23.9 km² and comprises 19 dong (administrative areas).

That very much matches the average: I divided Seoul's superficy (605.25 km²) and total of "dongs" (522) into 25 (the number of "gu" or districts), and got averages of 24.2 km² and 20.8 dong.

But beyond these 19 "administrative" dong (행정동) lie 87 "court" dong (법정동), most dating from the early Joseon dynasty. Many "dong" names are engraved in national history and literature. Some designate functions, because of the kind of offices or services you would find in the area.

Most dongs are simply microscopic: taking out Pyeongchang-dong (8.92 km²) leaves an average 0.17 km² for its 86 peers, and a significant portion of what's left is covered by vast mountains, parks, or royal palaces.

Regroupments, renamings, and even extensions were performed all along the XXth century, most notably:

  • on April 1, 1914: under the Japanese Occupation, redistribution and renaming of the city's 186 dongs, implementation of Japanese namings. This completed the 1910 degradation of the Capital as "Gyeongseong-bu", an almost anomymous section of Gyeonggi-do, part of the annihilation of all references to Korea's identity as an independant power. Note that when Gyeongseong was renamed Seoul on August 15th, 1948, it gained a status of "Special City" which somehow marked, beyond the independence from Gyeonggi-do, the independence from colonial rule (the final "Seoul Teukbyeolsi" label was awarded exactly one year later). Jongno-gu heads the other 6 districts : Dongdaemun-gu, Jung-gu, Seodaemun-gu, Seongdong-gu, Yeongdeungpo-gu, and Yongsan-gu.
  • on October 1, 1946: many renamings, mostly denipponification reversing changes made during the Occupation.
  • in 1949: Seongbuk-dong, now a diplomats' lair on the other side of the Samcheong Tunnel but traditionally a Beverly Hills for Chaebol owners, leaves Jongno-gu for newly formed Seongbuk-gu
  • on October 1, 1975: new city regulations ruled on September 23, 1975 extended Jongno-gu's jurisdictions well beyond the old intra muros city, most notably :
    . to the West: Muak-dong and Gyonam-dong added from Seodaemun-gu. Gyonam is on the "wrong" side of the old Dongnimmun gate and the fortress wall, but after the completion of Sajik tunnel, it obviously completed a newly formed large block around Gyeonghuigung. Incorporating Muak-dong adds the other side of Inwangsan.
    . to the East: Sungin-dong and Changsin-dong taken from Dongdaemun-gu, completing the "sadaemun" tableau (the gu now encompasses the 4 main gates)
    . to the North: Buam-dong and Pyeongchang-dong join the party, wrapping Bugaksan in the gu, and putting Cheonghwadae and Gyeongbokgung, symbols of yesterday's and today's power, in the center of the map.
FULL LIST OF JONGNO "DONG" (19 "Administrative", 87 "Court"):

Buam-dong (부암동 - 3 court dongs): Buam-dong, Hongji-dong, Sinyeong-dong.

Changsin 1-dong (창신1동 - 1/3): Changsin-dong (covers 3 administrative dongs).

Changsin 2-dong (창신2동 - 1/3): Changsin-dong (covers 3 administrative dongs).

Changsin 3-dong (창신3동 - 1/3): Changsin-dong (covers 3 administrative dongs).

Cheongun-dong (청운동 - 3): Cheongun-dong, Gungjeong-dong, Singyo-dong.
Gahoe-dong (가회동 - 4): Gahoe-dong, Jae-dong, Gye-dong, Wonseo-dong.

Gyonam-dong (교남동 - 6): Gyobuk-dong, Gyonam-dong, Haengchon-dong (Hengchon-dong), Hongpa-dong, Pyeong-dong, Songwol-dong.
Hyehwa-dong (혜화동 - 4): Hyehwa-dong, Myeongnyun-dong 1-ga, Myeongnyun-dong 2-ga, Myeongnyun-dong 4-ga.

Hyoja-dong (효자동 - 6): Changseong-dong, Hyoja-dong, Nuha-dong, Nusang-dong, Ogin-dong, Tongin-dong.
Ihwa-dong (이화동 - 3): Dongsung-dong, Ihwa-dong, Yeongeon-dong.

Jongno 1.2.3.4 ga-dong (종로1.2.3.4가동 - 28): Bongik-dong, Cheongjin-dong, Doneui-dong, Gongpyeong-dong, Gwancheol-dong, Gwanhoon-dong, Gwansu-dong,
Gwonnong-dong, Gyeongun-dong, Gyeonji-dong, Hoonjeong-dong (Hunjeong-dong), Ikseon-dong, Ineui-dong, Insa-dong (Insadong), Jangsa-dong, Jongno 1-ga, Jongno 2-ga, Jongno 3-ga, Jongno 4-ga, Junghak-dong, Myo-dong, Nagwon-dong, Seolin-dong, Susong-dong, Waryong-dong, Wonnam-dong, Wooni-dong, Yoeji-dong.

Jongno 5.6 ga-dong (종로5.6가동 - 5): Chungsin-dong, Hyojoe-dong, Jongno 5-ga, Jongno 6-ga, Yeonji-dong.
Muak-dong (무악동 - 1): Muak-dong.

Myeongnyun 3-ga-dong (명륜3가동 - 1):
Myeongnyun-dong 3-ga.

Pyeongchang-dong (평창동 - 2): Gugi-dong, Pyeongchang-dong.
Sajik-dong (사직동 - 12): Chebu-dong, Dangju-dong, Doryeom-dong, Jeokseon-dong, Naeja-dong, Naesu-dong, Pilun-dong, Sajik-dong, Sejongno-dong (세종로동), Shinmunro 1-ga, Shinmunro 2-ga, Tongeui-dong (Tongui-dong).
Samcheong-dong (삼청동 - 7): Anguk-dong, Hwa-dong, Palpan-dong, Sagan-dong, Samcheong-dong, Sogyeok-dong, Songhyeon-dong.

Sungin 1-dong (숭인1동 - 1/2): Sungin-dong (covers 2 administrative dongs).

Sungin 2-dong (숭인2동 - 1/2): Sungin-dong (covers 2 administrative dongs).

Jongno-gu keeps changing very quickly, and it's getting hard not to bump into areas under redevelopment. Population should increase significantly in the years to come. There are only 180,000 inhabitants nowadays, but registered population tops 1.4 M, and 2M people live there during daytime (many office headquarters). Some dongs may disappear (ie Pyeong-dong in the future Gyonam New Town / Dongnimmun New Town).

SM 2009

Tuesday, May 19, 2009

Cafe Sobahn (Seoul)

Gwanghwamun belongs to CJ Foodville : along with A Twosome Place, Coldstone, or The Place (all withing shooting distance), Cafe Sobahn is a part of a group which definitely seems to favor touristic hubs (ie new subsidiaries at Anguk Station)**.

The Officia Building itself is not a landmark, but it lies at the most strategic crossroads, and its first floor provides some year round green elements to enjoy from the other side of the window while you eat. Inside, you can also watch grains grow into ingredients for your next bibimbap in a cubic greenhouse.

I already praised the Cafe Sobahn concept, which could be summed up as a "slow fast food" restaurant with a "well being" touch, modernizing traditional Korean dishes (ie shrimp and tofu porridges for breakfast, sea cucumber or tofu bibimbap for lunch, somme innovative side orders depending on the day). More for health concious gourmets than for gluttons, but non-vegetarians can find meat (ie bulgogi).

Cafe Sobahn serves breakfast from 8 to 11, bibimbap and certain dishes after 11, plus set menu and more "a la carte" after 17. You pick up a tray and pay in advance, but hot dishes are served at your table and discarded for you. A solution for urbanites who want to escape, once in a while, the usual feeding frenzy of your friendly neighborhood Korean restaurant.

SM 2009

134-2 Shinmunro 1-ga, Jongno-gu, Seoul, ROK
Cafe Sobahn (restaurant - Gwanghwamun branch*)
Tel : +82.2.730.7423


* There's another one near Seoul University
** ... and could do even more for Korean cuisine (see "
Korean Cuisine Aiming At World's Top Five. China is watching")

see other restaurants in Seoul and Korea.

Monday, May 18, 2009

Jongmyo ghosts

A warm mid-may afternoon in Jongmyo. Just a few visitors, but nowhere to be seen in this deserted Jeongjeon (the main ceremonial hall).

A slight breeze, the intense smell of snowbell tree flowers, and only natural sounds : birds (magpies, sparrows, and today even a blue jay), wind in the old and tall trees that mask the city beyond. From here, the corner of your eye can only notice the brown tip of Boryung building emerging timidly from the biomass, now fully active.

Much smaller and less "urban" than its Northern neighbor Changdeokgung, devoted to the dead (Joseon royal shrine, a UNESCO World Heritage), Jongmyo provides a perfect spot for meditation.
There's even a quiet library with 20 seats (square mats on the floor), in a small hanok. Like most traditional houses in this part of the World, this one offers a broadband connection to the web. No one there today, except the clerk. From a hole torn through the paper window, I can see three adjumas sitting on the lawn, picking up the bad weeds.

I expected to meet a few elderlies, but as usual they are all outside in Jongmyo Citizens' Park, chatting or playing Xiangqi (Chinese chess) under phantom cigarette clouds. Their mass looks compact from a distance, and many lips are moving, but you can't hear those ghosts as you walk through the crowd. Just chess pieces clacking on boards.

You can follow Jongmyo's Western wall up to a recently created small triangular garden, Yulgokno, and Donhwamun... but beware : Seosulla-gil (서순라 길) is haunted.

"West Patrol Way" owes its name to the policemen who walked along it. All houses used to turn their backs on this cemetery wall, and residents would only leave their garbage there. Nearby Myo-dong owes its name to the same Myo (묘) you find in Jongmyo (종묘) : it means "grave", and by metonymy "cemetery". But the only two dongs covering Seosulla-gil are Bongik-dong (South) and Gwonnong-dong (North).

Bongik-dong remains a messy pack of cheap old restaurants feeding (upon ?) Jongmyo's chess playing ghosts.

Gwonnong-dong keeps proceeding on the way to gentrification, workshops giving way to brand new, two-story- private houses, galleries or shops opening themselves to Seosulla-gil, betting on the Donhwamun-ro extension of Insadong all the way to this charming winding road with its trees, its wall, and its phantoms.

Right now, gentrification doesn't seem that obvious : trash keep piling up against the wall, the path doesn't smell of snowbell tree flowers, and more often than not, you will come across one or two hirsute winos.

Keep your distance : to spare your nostrils, but also to show some respect for Jongmyo's third millenium ghosts.

Sunday, May 17, 2009

Rossini (Seoul)

Jongno-gu, Jae-dong, Seoul, ROK
Rossini (Italian restaurant)
Tel : +82.2.766.8771

You like Italian food, but Italian Italian. Neither "supersize-me" American Italian, nor "dripping kalguksu" Korean Italian. You like your pasta al dente, to feel some respect for ingredients. You want the closest thing to the real thing. And you are ready to pay for it.

This side of the Hangang, Rossini provides a quiet, not too trendy answer. Both central and remote, just a few blocks away from Anguk Station and from the hyper areas nearby (this is Gahoe-ro, but south of Bukchon-gil - right across the Constitutional Court).

Over several years I tried quite a few soups, pasta, lasagna, primi e secondi piatti, and deserts. I'd say that if they were a hitter, they'd bat a steady .300, but very steady : never below .295 and never over .305. Many hits, many runs, never a strike out... but only a few dingers, and never over the fence.


see other restaurants in Seoul and Korea.

Bongchu Jjimdak (Seoul)

Jongno-gu, Dongsung-dong 1-96, SEOUL, ROK
Bongchu Jjimdak, Dongsung-dong Branch / 봉추 찜닭 (restaurant)
Tel : +82.02.3676.6981‎

We're dealing here with a chain restaurant running many branches nationwide, including several in Jongno-gu and one on each side of Daehangno. This one, on the Western slope, must not be confused with the Daehangno branch (in Myeongnyun-dong 4-ga, 80-1). Not the East side kind of guy, I prefer to enjoy the charms of Ihwa-dong heights before their ineluctable renovation.

I once tried another Bongchu Jjimdak near Hongik University, but that one didn't taste as good. And the place was not as nice to sit and enjoy (zenish rustic chic in Dongsung - totally artificial but relaxing). I'll probably give a shot at the restaurant they have right behind Bosingak because of its exceptional view on the pavilion... and because I need to have a good joint at a walking distance.

I mean, a good Bongchu Jjimdak does taste good. Hot and spicy, granted, but yummily hot and spicy. This variety of Andong JJimdak (안동찜닭, or Andong Steamed Chicken, after the Andong city located in Gyeongsanbuk-do) is the only dish they serve, but if you have a problem with hot pepper, that's OK : you'll find legions of nice eateries in the area.

The rich and contrasted flavors come from a mix of subtle spices in the seasoning, strong dried pepper, and a not too pregnantly sweet soy sauce. Varied veggies and Chinese noodles provide comfort and harmony in a big dish simmering before your eyes. Dosage must be key : my Hongdae experience was dull because I couldn't feel the spices, and the dish tasted almost like a dakdoritang. It looked like one as well - probably a question of soy. In Dongsung-dong, the Jjimdak was drier and darker, and the spices and pepper gave it a very subtle, unique, yet somehow sichuanesque twist.


I'm drooling just thinking about it.


SM 2008

Obok Shikdang (Namhae)

Gyeongsangnam-do, Namhae-gun, Namhae-eup, ROK (NAMHAE, ROK)
Obok Shikdang / 오복식당 (restaurant)
Tel : +82.55.864.7265 (?)

Actually, I'm not sure for the phone number. I caught this one months later on the web, after browsing old pictures of that crushingly hot summer day in Namhae. The name of the restaurant appears in a corner, on the wrong side of the window. I remember putting it there on purpose, in case.

From the start, we landed in this Obok Shikdang by accident or, as it turned out, out of blind luck. Looking for a place to eat in Namhae's market, we went to the only one that accepted us that late in the afternoon.

And had the most exquisite haemul doenjang jjigae ever.

This was not your usual doenjang jjigae flavored with seafood but a completely new experience altogether. A variety of outsanding "banchan" (side dishes) confirmed this memorable lunch.

The old owner was embarrassingly kind enough to walk us back to the market... and even helped us get good quality anchovies (멸치) from a merchant who kept proposing junk for export.


Knock knock knockin' on Heaven's door...


SM 2008

Gwanghwamun Jip (Seoul)

You're looking for a great gimchi jjigae, and you don't mind eating in a crumbling brick house giving on a dark and dirty alleyway ?

That's perfectly OK, because you won't have to venture into dangerous territories : Gwanghwamun Jib lies only a few meters away from Gwanghwamun Station (exits 4 or 8 at Sejong Cultural Center, exit 7 if you prefer to come from the South), in a small path parallel to Gwanghwamun-gil. Maybe the equivalent of Pimatgol for Jongro : Gwanghwamun-gil used to be an important axis.

I don't know the name of this path but actually, it's less dark than it used to because many buildings have been destroyed in the area. Which means, unfortunately, that this old place may not survive for long. So don't waste any time, come push this sky blue painted door, and order the speciality. The stew uses more diverse ingredients than its rivals, and is served with fresh omelette.

Gwanghwamun Jip is a lively place with a special atmosphere. Maybe because gimchi jjigae is a special dish. Not glamour, but very popular and close to the heart.

Here, it's even closer to the heart of the city.


SM2009.

Gwanghwamun Jip / 광화문 집 (restaurant)
Dangju-dong 43, Jongno-gu, Seoul, ROK
Ttel. +82 2 739 7737.

Le Saint Ex (Seoul)

This is like teleportation : as soon as you push the door open, you're leaving Seoul for Paris. It's not the narrow world food street behind Itaewon's Hamilton Hotel you're feeling in your back, but some large, platanus dotted boulevard.

Just like in any Parisian bistro, you can enjoy a meal in a lively atmosphere (during rush hours, chances are several tables will speak French), or enjoy a coffee or tea while reading your paper on a quiet afternoon.

But unlike most Parisian bistros, Benjamin Joinau's Saint-Ex welcomes you with a collection of appetizing desserts right in front of the door. So even I, more the French cheese than the sweet tooth kind of guy, often end up inviting a cake or an ile flottante to have a chat with my café. After a full French meal.

Since Le Saint-Ex is also both un bar a vins and an exhibition space, epicureans can usually indulge with a perfect cultural alibi.

Merci Ben pour ce joli portail entre mes deux villes preferees.

SM2009

Le Saint-Ex (restaurant)
119-28 Itaewon-dong, Yongsan-gu, Seoul, ROK
Tel : +82 2 795 2565.

Gongxi Myeongwan (Seoul)

I read many orthographs for this place (Gongximyeongwan, Gongxi Myonkwan, Kkongsimyongwan, Gongsi Myeongwan...) but settled for this one, in two words : the name sounds like "welcome to the noodle house" in a mix of Chinese (for the "gong xi" / welcome part) and Korean (for the "myeon gwan" / noodle fine restaurant half).

What matters, once more, is the food. And this one happens to be both fine and inexpensive. There's even a take-out booth on the first floor, so you can either pick-up a snack before strolling Myeongdong (their xiaolongbao / Shanghai dumplings are more than OK), or seat upstairs and overlook a small busy crossroads not far from the Chinese Embassy. The menu provides solutions for delicate palates, fire eaters, vegetarians, or "maneul maniacs" (ie garlic pork ribs).

Gongxi Myeongwan / 꽁시면관 (Chinese restaurant)
22-13, Chungmuro 1-ga, Jung-gu, Seoul, ROK
Tel : +82.2.778.8863

SM 2008 / Seoul Village

see other restaurants in Seoul and Korea.

Saturday, May 16, 2009

Namuga Ineun Jib (Seoul)

There's a tree in this house. That's the truth and the name of the restaurant located in the elbow of Gyeonghuigung-gil.

I wonder what will happen to this tree and this old wooden house - first half of the XXth century I guess, with something vaguely Western to it... In the green painted veranda, facing a small backyard and the said tree, you almost feel like in a countryside family home, maybe not far from the sea.

The restaurant will soon move to the building next door, more modern and functional, and it probably won't feel the same... but there's no reason why food should taste any worse a few meters down the street.

Because Namuga Itneun Jip proposes a fantastic experience for Korean food lovers, who will enjoy new flavors, with a focus on tofu and Gangwon-do food. And an incredible series of banchan, featuring a radish (무) to die for.

Namuga Itneun Jip / 나무가 있는 집 (restaurant)
1-209 Shinmunro 2-ga, Jongno-gu, Seoul, ROK
Tel : +82.737.3888

SM 2008 / Seoul Village

see other restaurants in Seoul and Korea.

Cheonjin Poja (Seoul)

One of my favorite spots in Samcheong-dong ? Cheonjin Poja (천진포자 - or Tianjin Baozi / 天津包子).

Receipes may come from Tianjin, the founder came from Taiwan decades ago. Since she couldn't find any decent dumplings in Seoul she decided to make a job out of it.

The result is both good and cheap, which explains the success : an annex opened just meters away from the original place, and you often have to wait to get one of the happy few seats. But you never have to wait for too long : it doesn't take that much time to wolf down their treats.

The menu goes from 3 to 5,000 wons and includes 5 categories : noodles (chow mein, chow bing), fried flower bread, and dumplings : in soup (mandu guk), with meat (pork mandu), or with veggies (an amazing half open leek / buchu mandu).

Reaching this Shangri-la is quite easy. Take Gyoyuk-gil at Anguk Station (exit 3), that's the small street facing Ujeongguk-ro. You pass the schools and a few eateries and that's it, to your left, just before ArtSonje Center and Bukchon-gil.

Cheonjin Poja / 천진포자 (restaurant)
127 Sogyeok-dong, Jongno-gu, Seoul, ROK
Tel : +82.2.739.6086

SM / Seoul Village 2008

see other restaurants in Seoul and Korea.

Friday, May 15, 2009

Ssamziegil

If Insa-dong changed dramatically over the past decades, Ssamziegil (쌈지길) clearly contributed as an instant hit.

March 2003 was the last time I had a yukgaejang in the restaurant that used to occupy this surprisingly empty and quiet space (just a few hanoks and trees surrounding an informal parking space) in the center of a reviving touristic hub.

When I saw the houses burnt down, my first reaction was to think : come on, this fire can't be accidental... that was the best spot available on Insadong-gil, and now they are free to build anything on it ! I braced myself for yet another art gallery quickly drawn by a bathroom designer.

When I first visited Ssamziegil in December 2004, I had a shock : hey, this is a modern style mini-Daehansan ! "Daehansan" was the knickname of a fictional landmark in a story I wrote (still now, yet to be completed) : in the new political capital of reunited Korea (on DMZ grounds), a central, cultural and monumental building-snape-shaped-street-hill covered with traditional style roofs hiding a vast indoor spherical space with a garden and village. Also knicknamed the Oriental Mont Saint Michel or The Giant Turd, Daehansan was the gift of a billionaire called Han to a city that lacked landmarks... a controversial and kistch utopia quickly adopted by the people as a central part of their lives.

A 4,000 square meter, 3 storey building covered with vegetation, Ssamziegil is basically a rectangular concrete street filled with shops, following a gentle slope up to Haneulmadang, a restaurant and terrace overlooking Insadong*, and with an underground gallery. This original boutique concept drew a clear and consistant editorial line : about 70 definitely "bobo" (bourgeois boheme) shops, restaurants or cafes, proposing Korean design, arts and crafts both traditional and modern (Anna Sui shop an exception, Ssamzie group being a partner of the brand).

Unlike Daehansan, which used to be criticized for circling around itself and lost memories, Ssamziegil is opened to its environment and its contemporaries, which makes it fun in any season. Brands come and go (ie SSBA opened an online store), and Ssamziegil established itself as a reference at the crossroads of Hongdae rebel spirit and Insadong tradition.

Ssamzie, the group behind the concept, acts a little bit like a galerist with promising talents, and also boasts Ssamzie Space more directly in the art field. They signed a MOU to open a similar Ssamziegil on Canal Walk, the original street-mall-canal concept in Songdo. A very smart choice to enliven that pivotal landmark : Canal Walk is meant to bring a very much needed disruption in that other (and much more famous) utopia.


* actually, this part of Insadong-gil is in Gwanhun-dong (38 Gwanhun-dong, Jongno-gu). Insa-dong includes the Southern part of the area, definitely not the nicest.

Thursday, May 14, 2009

Seoul Village - lists of posts

All posts are listed chronologically with their main topic. It's always about culture but I put "food", "business", "cityscape", "sports", or "politics" where it seemed more appropriate.

This list is updated manually once or twice a year, and links may be missing. The right column is more complete and there, you can also browse by labels or monthly archives.


2017 posts:


2017 (ongoing - to be updated sometime in the future)

- "Ku Sang Awards 2017" (culture)
- "Year Of The Dog (free ebook)" (culture)
- "This time it's different" (politics)
- "Seoul Biennale of Architecture and Urbanism 2017" (cityscape)

- "Seoullo 7017, and more roads to Seoul" (cityscape)
- "A new MOON Jae-in?" (politics)
- "All options on the table" (politics)
- "Weapons of Mass Distraction" (politics)
- "EXCLUSIVE-Second interview with KIM Jong-un" (politics)
- "Moving matter and hearts - Choe U-ram in Daegu" (culture) 
- "AHN Hee-jung joins the fray" (politics)
- "Handover Hangover" (politics) 


2016 posts:


2016 q4:

- "Don't miss Le Corbusier in Seoul... The artist, not the urban planner!" (culture)
- "Of power vacua and excesses" (politics)
- "The Fall Of The House Of Park" (politics)
- "Sustainable and Smart Tourism in Korea - a SWOT analysis" (culture)


2016 q3:

- "Seoul summerscapes: death, taxes, and budongsan" (cityscape)
- "One last gold medal for Korea (the usual one)" (media) 
- "What's cooking, Korea?" (food)
- "Welcome to Ulaanbaatar Village" (cityscape)
- "Japan votes Peacexit - if not Democracexit" (politics)
- "Gimme Shelter" (culture)

2016 q2:

- ""A shared responsibility to look directly in the eye of history", and a shared evasiveness" (politics)
- "Feel The BAN" (politics)
- "Take a walk on the Seoul side" (cityscape)
- "Yeongdong-daero Underground City, Korea (YUCK?)" (cityscape)
- "Descendants of the Sun(glasses)" (politics)
- " The Yongsan itch and the Sajik balm" (cityscape)
- "Bleu Blanc Rouge"(culture)


2016 q1:

- "Man v. Machine, Garry v. Gary" (techno)
- "OH Se-hoon returns... but did he ever leave?"(politics)
- "Seun Sangga back on the (road)map" (cityscape)
- "2016 Under The Carpet" (politics)


2015 posts:

2015q4:

- "Miracle?!?" (politics)
- "Four More Years?" (politics)
- "The Ambiguous Kim Young-sam Legacy" (politics)
- "Tokyo Trials on trial: after Japan, Abe forces the US to chose between Imperial Japan and postwar Japan" (politics)
- "Korea-Japan: it ain't necessarily thaw" (politics)
- "And the winner is... I.SEOUL.U (not Seoul?)" (culture / politics)
- "'Horizontal Housing' shouldn't mean 'mini-apateu'" (cityscape)
- "Yet Another Textbook Textbook Controversy" (politics)
- "Which model for Korea tomorrow?" (politics / culture / business)
- "Sejong-daero winner announced" (cityscape)
- "A postcard from LEE Ungno's Hongseong" (culture / cityscape)


2015q3:

- "Seoul Station 7017: Forget 2017?" (cityscape)
- ""K-Experience Culture Complex" To Replace KAL's Songhyeon-Dong Project. Really?" (cityscape - culture)
- "Decoding the Abe Statement: "why apologize for crimes Japan never committed?"" (politics)
- "2015, 1965, 1945... how about 1915?" (politics)
- "Non-Centers = No Innovation, No Creative Economy" (business)
- ""Sejongdaero" competition officially started" (cityscape)
- "Urban Continuity - Susaek-Sangam project back on tracks (and over DMC Station tracks)" (cityscape)
- "Governance leaks" (politics)
- "Japan taking a stand against ABEIGNomics?" (politics)

2015q2:

- "Seoul subway to gain 89 km by 2025" (cityscape)
- "Korea revives the project of a fourth mobile license" (business)
- "Under Coverage" (politics)
- "Seoul Station 7017 blooms into Seoul Arboretum" (cityscape)
- "Tear down that tax office" (cityscape)
- ""History is harsh" and other sick jokes" (politics)
- "Seoul Power Play: One Less Nuclear Plant, One More Coal Plant" (politics)
- "Cough Potato" (politics)
  
2015q1:
 
- "Sweeping History Under The Red Carpet" (politics)
- "Kim-Park-Lee Dynasty Updates" (politics)
- "Burying Seobu Expressway (not all car traffic, though)" (cityscape)
- "Fed up with 'Gangnam Style'? Try Paik and Park's acoustic version" (culture)
- "Urban Regeneration: 27 Projects For Seoul" (cityscape)
- "The USA And Shinzo Abe: From Ostrich Policy To Complicity?" (politics)
- "Revamping Seun Sangga - If Possible Without Vampirizing The Area " (cityscape)
- "Seoul to tap into vacant homes pool" (cityscape, business)
- ""Guisin-dong (free ebook)"" (culture)
- "Seoul Station Elevated Park (Seoul Station Project 7017? The Seoul Vine?) - An Update" (cityscape)
- "Pyramid Organizational Structure of North Korea" (politics)
- "Diagonal crossings, High Lines, and Business Verticals (how pedestrians and businesses remodel Seoul... and vice-versa)" (cityscape)
- "The Last Laugh" (politics, culture)


2014 posts:


2014q4:


-"That was 2015" (culture)
-"The Interview (no, not that one)" (culture)
-"Love In The Time Of Ageing Korea: 'My Love, Don't Cross That River' - 'Old Partner'" (culture)
-"GTX, meet Sinbundang Line" (cityscape)
-"KIM Yo-jong - cherchez la femme" (politics)
-"Yeonhuigung - quintessentially Joseon" (cityscape-culture) 
-"It's the democracy, stupid" (politics)
-"China Dependence" (business, cityscape) 

-"Nippon Kaigi and friends exposed, at last" (politics) 
-"Haunting performances" (culture) 
-"Gwanghwamun, Donhwamun, and the Tale of two Royal Roads" (cityscape) 
-"Cheong Alive, Jeonju Kicking" (culture, cityscape) 
-"Happy Seoul" (culture) 
  2014q3:

-"'Comfort Women': No Resolution Without Resoluteness. From Everyone, Please." (politics)
-"Freeways as Dividers, Connectors, and Destinations" (cityscape)
-"New Town out, Redevelopment in, back to the Urban Jungle" (cityscape)
-"The Bigger, The Bitter" (business)
-"Jaws" (politics)
-"... Et Spiritu Sanctiones" (politics)
-"K-Pope mania hits Seoul, Jongno-style" (culture, cityscape)
-"Bukhansan Eunpyeong Hanok Maeul" (cityscape)
-"Soriju seems to be the sweetest word" (culture)

 
2014q2:

- "Abductors talking abductions - Revisionists talking revisions" (politics)
- "World Cup v. Korean Keg" (culture)
- "Next Stop 2017?" (politics)
- "I love the smell of napalm in the evening" (food)
- "Mens Sana in Computore Sano (Seoul Digital Forum 2014)" (techno)
- "Seoul's Big Data On Slow Motion" (cityscape)
- "In the zone with Miyeon and Park Je chun" (culture)
- "Asia Pacific Bulletin Publication" (politics)
- "So, did Obama visit his own Yeswecan Shrine?" (politics)
- "Obama between toppling Japan and sunken-hearted Korea" (politics)
- "From The Outside, KAL's "7 Star Hanok Hotel" Showcases Excellence in Freight" (cityscape)
- "Korea Upside Down" (...)
- "Redrawing Korean Maps - Innovation Clusters" (business)
- "EXCLUSIVE: the first test shot taken from the first North Korean drone" (politics)
- "China reaches high speed into North Korea... and post-Juche East Asia" (politics)
- "Heralding cultural diversity - a stronger and more sustainable Korean wave (Part III)" (culture)
- "Heralding cultural diversity - a stronger and more sustainable Korean wave (Part II)" (culture)
- "Heralding cultural diversity - a stronger and more sustainable Korean wave (Part I)" (culture)
- "Assessing China's (hard? soft? normative? discursive? pervasive? comprehensive? blocking?...) Power" (politics)

2014q1
- "The Tripartite Summitulacra" (politics)
- "What part of "Operator" don't you understand?" (business)
- "The Republic of Apartments" (cityscape)
- "KORUS chorus" (politics)
- "What happens in Vegas stays in Incheon?" (cityscape)
- ""On Korea’s Intense Resentment of Japan"" (politics)
- "South Korea's Super PAC" (politics)
- "Saving Japan - Let's fall the Indecision Tree" (politics)
- "Seoul Story(telling)" (cityscape)
- "W. at The Shilla for Chosun" (politics)
- "GSM" (culture)
- "Superpower failures" (politics)
- "Madang Blues ("The Hen Who Dreamed She Could Fly")" (culture)
- "Seoul's New Town and Redevelopment Plan Update" (cityscape)
- "North Korea, Beware - Rest Of The World, Be Aware" (politics)
- "Parking Chance, The App" (cityscape)
- "The Unbearable Lightness of Being John Kerry" (politics)
- "Bitter, Sweet Seoul" (culture)
- "Pilgrimage" (culture)
- "Over the moon" (cityscape)
- "Mosquito forecasts, Convenience Safe Havens, One-Stop Complaining, and The Ministry of Hilly Walks" (cityscape)
- "North Korea Academy Award Nominees" (politics)
- "Sneak peek inside Dongdaemun Design Plaza & Park" (cityscape)
- "Season VIII - Ad Absurdum" (culture)

2013 posts:

2013q4
- "Last Stand for 2013 and Gyonam-dong" (cityscape)
- "With neighbors like these..." (politics)
- "Joint wishes from Seoul City Mayor and Seoul Village Minor" (fun)
- "Seoul-Namyangju? Check. East Gyeonggi? Still To Be Defined" (cityscape)
- "KIM Jong-un's Movember Selfie" (fun)
- "JANG Sung-taek "sledge-hammered" out (tu quoque, patrui mi?)" (politics)
- "Exclusive interview with KIM Jong-un" (politics)
- "Too proud to fail? Not so simple." (business)
- "A stroll through Seoul, following in PARK Wan-suh's footsteps" (culture-cityscape)
- "From ADIZ to UDIZ (but NIMBY-do shall never surrender)" (politics)
- "Jeongdong-kill" (cityscape)
- "One Flew Over the Senkaku's Nest - Nationalist maps of Asia" (politics)
- "MMCA Seoul" (culture)
- "No cablecars in Bukhansan, please" (cityscape)
- "Songdo, DMC: sequence is of the essence (Part III)" (cityscape)
- "Once upon a time in the East" (politics)
- "Eerie Tales from Old Korea" (culture)
- "Paradise City v. Sin City" (cityscape)
- "The Voices of Heaven (Maija Rhee Devine)" (culture)
- "First World Congress for Hallyu" (culture)
- "Breaking news: a new missile launcher for Kim Jong-un" (fun-politics)
- "Yeonnam-dong, a new Human Town or a new Old Town, but mercifully not that old New Town" (cityscape)
- "Heralding cultural diversity: a stronger and more sustainable Korean wave (1st Congress - WAHS)" (culture)
- "Four Seasons Seoul" (cityscape)
- "Seobu Line confirmed as Seoul's LRT top priority" (cityscape)
- "Working on it" (fun)

2013q3
- "The Sejongno Insult" (politics)
- "A happy event to share? Call "Basketball Diplomacy" Inc." (politics)
- "Magok District on cruise mode" (cityscape)
- "Chinese Communism, the Ultimate Stage of Capitalism?" (politics)
- "Interview in the dark" (culture)
- "LEE Seok-ki's Arirang Spring" (politics)- "Hashima, Yawata Steel: enshrining slave labor in UNESCO World Heritage List?" (politics)
- "KIM Han-sol - Episode IV, Striking Back At The Empire? " (politics)- "Germany and Japan: different ways of remembering war crimes and playing politics" (politics)
- "Seoul, Our Movie" (culture) 
- "France claims the British Isles at the United Nations" (politics)
- "The Elusive Independence Day - When will Japan officially proclaim its Independence from Imperial Japan?" (politics)- "First International Memorial Day for "Comfort Women"" (politics)
- "A Radioactive Government" (politics)- "Gyeongui Line Forest Trail - An Urban Lifeline" (cityscape)
- "No, you can't honor A-Bomb victims in Hiroshima AND War Criminals in Yasukuni" (politics)
- "Seoul LRT Projects Update (Part 2/2)" (cityscape)
- "Seoul LRT Projects Update (Part 1/2)" (cityscape)
- "If you ain't broke, fix it: Seoul, Welfare and Railways Deficits" (cityscape)
- "Yonsei-ro the first street in Seoul to ban cars in its transportation mix" (cityscape)
- "Taro Aso, Japan's Constitution, and Godwin's Law" (politics)
- "MMCA Seoul from above" (cityscape)
- "Armistice, Amnesia, Apostasy" (politics)
- "Beyond Containment: Andrei Lankov On Stage (10 Magazine Book Club)" (politics-culture)
- "The People of Seoul" (culture)    
- "CHUN Doo-hwan for the record" (politics)

- "Gangwon-do Battlefield - 강원도 전쟁터 (무): Mu, The Lost Continent?" (culture)
- "Seoul Light Rapid Transit Back On Tracks" (cityscape)
- "To better bridge the gap between Japan, Korea, and China, let's measure the gap within Japan" (politics)
- "Shinzo Abe: an offensive Defense White Paper ahead of the elections... and Constitutional Revolution" (politics)
- "The Fight Against Passive Smoke Continues" (health)
- "My Seoul: mobile app for foreigners" (culture)
- "In memoriam Samdong Samgeori, Gyonam-dong" (cityscape)

 

2013 q2
- Game over for the 'Hanschluss' scenario? (politics)
- 10 Shades of Black and White (culture)
- The Guardian State (politics)
- Songdo, DMC: sequence is of the essence (Part II) (cityscape)
- Mirrors are abominable (politics)
- Alleyways (cityscape)
- Silver lining, darker clouds (politics)
- The Seoul Future Heritage Is In Our Hands (culture, cityscape)
- From Sweet Home to Happy Housing (cityscape)
- MOCA goes MMCA - Museum of Modern and Contemporary Art (culture)
- ABE forced to back down a bit. For the moment. Next PR stunt: KIM Jong-un (politics)
- Can't top that? Shinzo Abe posing as Shiro Ishii, the Josef Mengele of Imperial Japan (politics)
- So you want to know what is 'necessary', Mr Hashimoto? (politics)
- Yeon Deung Hoe (Lotus Lantern Festival) (culture)
- Namdaesunrise, Seoul Friendship Fair 2013, and other spring classics (culture)
- Songdo, DMC: sequence is of the essence (Part I) (cityscape)
- Dear Japan, Please Say No To Abeignomics (politics)
- Bikesharing Blossom (cityscape)
- Time travel: "Letters from Joseon" (culture)
- Hoehyeon Apt, Chungjeong Apt, Dongdaemun Apt, Ogin Apt... (cityscape)
- TEMASEK goes shopping (business)
- Gentlemanslaughter (culture)
- Smart Cities - Seoul: a case study (ITU) (cityscape)
- Air Pollution: New Measures, Please (cityscape)
- Korean Literature Rocks (culture)
- Asian Leadership Conference 2013 (business)

2013 q1
- Benjamin Barber, a Citizen Without Borders (Asia Institute Seminar) (culture)
- This Time Is Different - Six Decades of North Korean Follies (The Umpteenth Final Countdown) (politics)
- Old Seoul, Old Seochon (cityscape)
- Teaching Geography - Dokdo Inside (politics)
- Am I My Hanok's Keeper? Peter E. Bartholomew's Defense and Illustration of Korean Architecture (cityscape, culture)
- Build a hanok and they will come - Marketing impostures and genuine slow urbanism (cityscape)
- Sudogwon New Town Blues (cityscape)
- Hop on! (culture)
- Dennis Rodman in North Korea (live feed) (politics)
- Park 2 Day 1 in pictures (politics)
- Release the NKraken (politics)
- Transit (culture)
- SeMA Nowon: better than Gauguin (culture)
- On The Korea Project, Northtalgia, and the DaimlerChrysler Syndrom (politics)
- Beyond Lost Compasses and New Compassions (culture)
- Rise Of The Nork Zombies (politics?)
- New homes, old stories for Seoul mayor (cityscape)
- Magok District: SIM City as in "Seoul Intra Muros"? Alleyways as in "Seoul Inter Muros"? (cityscape)
- J.S. (P.S.)

2012 posts:

2012 q4
- Apropos of nothing (culture? bibim?)
- The Anipang Election: Park wins big, but who won? (politics)
- Time is up (politics)
- Welcome to Korea (culture)
- Hell is other Democratic People's Republic of Korea (politics)
- Naneun nangman gangaji (culture)
- Saving Korean cinema... and even Chaebolplex (culture)
- From tree burials to "Guisin-dong"? (culture)
- Scratch that: Dynasty, Dallas, or the Twilight Zone? (politics)
- Dynasty or Dallas? (politics)
- Along Hongjecheon, my way or the highway (cityscape)
- A thousand villages, a thousand memories - Seoul Photo Festival 2012 (culture)
- From urban mirages to urban decay (cityscape)
- Seoul Tsunami City Hall, The Other Korean Wave (cityscape)
- Songdo on the world map (Green Climate Fund) (cityscape)
- "Nothing to Envy" - Barbara Demick's portrait of North Korea now an animated feature film (culture)
- We reject as false the choice between revisionism and nationalism - for a Global Truth and Reconciliation Network (politics)
- Dokdo, Senkaku, Ieodo, Kuril,... Hashima? (politics)
- Nowon confirmed as Seoul's northeast hub (cityscape)
- "Wegwa Bang" or "Magic Meshroom"? The gimchi hit the fan anyway (culture)

2012 q3
- New KTX vertical to Gangnam by 2015 (cityscape)
- Japan politics? No to Comfort women, yes to Political whoring (politics)
- And then there were three (politics)
- Korean culture or Hallyu, Cultural contents or discontents (culture)
- Seoul, The Special City (culture)
- Here comes the sun (cityscape)
- Ad Nauseam: about Dark Tourism, the Blind Spots of Memory, and Free Thrashing Agreements (politics)
- 100 years of Koreans in Japan (culture)
- Censorship about censorship in South Korea? (politics)
- Worst followers (politics)
- Seochon's Dead Poets Society (YI Sang, YUN Dong-gu) (culture)
- East Village (Seoul) (food)
- Seoul Old Towns or New Human Towns? New City Hall or Tsunamheat Wave? (cityscape)
- ASYAAF 2012 (culture)
- Seoul Village Criers - a Soundtracking Project (culture)
- Sobering news (culture)
- AHN Cheol-soo(n) (politics)
- Leche Babines (Seoul) (food)
- Seoul village libraries (culture)
- Park Geun-hye: "The best possible choice"? (politics)
- Wonsu me (politics)
- Defrag (cityscape)
- Pyongyang's Fairy Tales (politics)
- Suseongdong Valley (cityscape)
- Seoul's Velvet Underground (culture)
- Cross Road Blues: a street of rain, fire, flying words, and flying rats (cityscape)
- Scientific revisionism, continued? (politics)
- Ghost in a sale (How many holograms of alcohol in your beer?) (culture)
- Korean Errlines (culture)

2012 q2
- Lectures (culture)
- CHOI Min-shik's Children (culture)
- 25 years later (politics)
- State-condoned creationism in Korea? A cold-blooded murder against King Sejong (politics)
- Still no apology from MBC, and more provocations on the Chinese front (politics)
- Foreigners (politics)
- May 31, 2002 - May 31, 2012 (sports)
- A bump on the road - Ventoux-san (cityscape)
- Seoul Digital Forum: Return To The Future (business)
- The Thing (business)
- Seoul is... a village (culture)
- Seoul Writers Workshop 2013 Anthology: Call for Submissions (culture)
- Seoul Lantern Festival (culture)
- Approved for adoption - Couleur de peau: miel (culture)
- The New Seven Wonders of Green Technologies (politics)
- Truth and Reconciliation - Justice at last (politics)
- DMZ Picnic (culture)
- Seoul Friendship Fair 2012, Global Seoul Mates (culture)
- Emperors in Istanbul - National Museum of Korea (culture)
- 500 m, 80%, 100% urban crappuccino (business)
- Ghost Month (cityscape)
- Busan Corner on Taxi-daero (food)
- Inhuman, all too human Seoul (cityscape)
- Seosomun Level Crossing (cityscape)
- Good cop... ee chuseyo (food)
- Tokyo Sakura With Patriot Missiles - A Still Life (politics)
- Petra, high on Seoul's World Heritage list (food)

2012 q1
- Home, Sweet Home - A One Pyeong Theater, A Pop-up Restaurant (culture)
- Every other Sunday (business)
- Yulgokno Tunnel (cityscape)
- NK and nukes: back to the (dolsot curling) stone age? (politics)
- Myeong-dong Narratives (culture)
- Melody Nelson in Seoul (culture)
- Chataigne - A Table Bis - Seoul (food)
- SeoulVillage on YouTube (culture)
- Twelve Minutes in Bballi-Bballiland (politics)
- Ieodo: I smell a fish (politics)
- Res2go - Seoul (food)
- Bien Etre - Seoul (food)
- 2012 Seoul Nuclear Security Summit (politics)
- Guro-gu boom, a bang for the (renmin)buck (business)
- Neighborhood watch (politics)
- SeMA to block blockbusters (culture)
- Daeboreum (culture)
- Saenuri, a brand "new" wor(l)d (politics)
- Happy Seollal (culture)
- A 6 Star Hotel in Gwanghwamun? (business)
- Welfare in Korea: the debate - or lack of (politics)
- Wet eyes for wetlands and urban mirages (cityscape)


2011 posts:

2011 q4
- Sampoong Sutbul Galbi (food)
- Happy New Year (culture)
- Six Lanes of Traffic (business)
- KIM Jong-il passes. To KIM Jong-un. Presumably. (politics)
- TempleStay? Check (culture)
- One Thousand Wednesdays (politics)
- Seoul Town Meeting 2011 (politics)
- You bet (culture)
- Yeouido Global Business Support Center (business)
- Hong Bok (food)
- Three out of four Korean single senior households are poor (politics)
- Dice are broadcast (business)
- The Earnit Kingdom: Loan Sharks Feeding Frenzy (business)
- Get the Dasan120 mobile app! (culture)
- "Out of Place" - 2012 Anthology - Seoul Writers Workshop (culture)
- Yeongcheon Market saved, Tongin Market already bukchonized (cityscape)
- Ginza Bairin (food)
- Park Won-soon's wishes for Seoul... Village (politics)
- tech+ 2011 - "Technology@me" (business)
- Kalguksu alley and Gamegol mandu - Namdaemun market (food)
- (Gimbap) Drug Wars in Gwangjang Market (food)
- A new mayor for Seoul, a new landscape for 2012 (politics)
- Park-Na debate on KBS (politics)
- Hangeul exports to Indonesia subject to dumping ? (culture)
- FC Seoul Expats Day (sports)
- Medical Tourism (business)
- KTX coast to coast Incheon-Gangneung (cityscape)
- For Line 1, take the Seoul Museum of History (culture)
- Deoksugung or Gyeongungung ? (culture)
- Korea blitz: all bases loaded (politics)
- D-Cube City and Korean Food Street - Byeokgyesu (food)
- Ray Banned (food)
- Return to Seoul Station (culture)
- Agony and Ecstasy - Pinault collection in Seoul (culture)
- Sajik Heights and Micro-Hanokization (cityscape)
- Junggye's "Baeksa Village" shall survive (cityscape)
- Gyeonggi Business & Culture Networking Day (business)
- Wireless Korea (cityscape)


2011 q3
- FC Seoul Expats day (sports)
- Medical tourism (business)
- KTX coast to coast Incheon-Gangneung (cityscape)
- For Line 1, take Seoul Museum of History (culture)
- Deoksugung or Gyeongungung? (culture)
- Korean blitz: all bases loaded (politics)
- D-Cube City and Korean Food Street - Byeokgyesu (food)
- Ray Banned (food)
- Return to Seoul Station (culture)
- Agony and Ecstasy: Pinault collection in Seoul (culture)
- Sajik heights and micro-hanokization (cityscape)
- Junggye's 'Baeksa Village' shall survive (cityscape)
- Gyeonggi Business & Culture Networking Day (business)
- Wireless Korea (cityscape)
- Kwak's 'gros couac' (politics)
- In memoriam OH Se-hoon (politics)
- Yeongeon Samgyetang - Seoul (food)
- Attractiveness of Seoul - participate to the survey (culture)
- Culture Station Seoul 284 (culture)
- More room(s) for Seoul students (cityscape)
- Climate Change in Korea (culture)
- Daegu 2011 IAAF World Championships (sports)
- Berlin Wall, Seoul Section(s) (cityscape)
- Jinju Hoegwan - Seoul (food)
- Joseph Beuys - The Multiples in Seoul - SOMA Museum of Art (culture)
- A Dream Bridge to nowhere? (cityscape)
- ASYAAF 2011 (culture)
- It's raining (sports)
- Tongin market opens up to art : adaptation or yet another symptom of Seochon's "Bukchonization" ? (cityscape)
- Seoul free school lunch referendum - continued (politics)


2011 q2
- HomePlus virtual stores in Seoul subway : from your smartphone to Cannes festival screens (business)
- SWW in Hapjeong - Chapter 1 Page A (culture)
- Seoul-upon-Han and Yeongguk-dong (cityscape)
- Seoul-Incheon canal (cityscape)
- K-popping bubbles (culture)
- Seoul Global Business Support Center online (business)
- Korea Inc. united for mobile payments (business)
- 3 subway lines projects revived ? (cityscape)
- Fete de la Musique Seoul (culture)
- Ha Ha - Seoul (food)
- Seoul International Book Fair (culture)
- Charles Sutbul Gimbap - Seoul (food)
- Good Morning Hanoi - Seoul (food)
- International Restaurant Street, Itaewon-ro 27-ga-gil, or Hong Seok-cheon-dae-ro? (cityscape)
- Business Start Up School - Seoul Global Center (business)
- Korea "Tighting" ? (culture)
- Monet to Warhol - Saint Etienne in Daejeon (culture)
- Musee d'Orsay in Seoul (culture)
- Korea Foundation Summer Concert for Foreign Residents 2011 (culture)
- China imports Hanoks, tames its North Korean "province" (politics)
- KAL receives its first Airbus A380 (business)
- Modern art pest control (culture)
- Cloudy skies over Sejong City (cityscape)
- New address system in Korea : 2 more years (cityscape)
- Hongdae snacks - THE Guksu, Kongbul, Maroon 51, Gilmotongi Chili Cha Cha Fingerfood Bar... (food)
- Seoul Global Business Networking Event 2011 (business)
- From Head to Toe (Hats and Shoes) - Folk Museum and Nonhyup Museum (culture)
- Join Seoul Village on Facebook and Twitter ! (culture)
- Brews and bruises (business)
- Seoul Lotus Lantern Festival (culture)
- Seoul Fortress Walls (re)completed by 2014(cityscape)
- Hi Seoul Festival 2011 (culture)
- Seochon, Sejong Village, or what ? (cityscape)
- Seoul, to rise again / Enrique Stanko Vraz's visit to Seoul in 1901 (culture)
- Sanchaehyang - Seoul (food)
- Seoul from above : 40 years of archives soon available (cityscape)
- The Spice - Seoul (food)
- New Towns : hanoks in Eunpyeong, a desert in Wangsimni (cityscape)
- Oegyujanggak books returned (books)
- Saruga begins its metamorphosis (cityscape)
- Re-engaging North Korea - A Four Party Talk (politics)
- Eric Kayser (food)
- Seoul Friendship Fair 2011 (culture / food)
- A rice paddy on Gwanghwamun Square ? (cityscape)
- DMC at full throttle - Songdo from Sim City to Sin City ? (cityscape)

2011 q1
- Peanut houses and 2-in-1 apartments (cityscape)
- Gangnam rule bended (cityscape)
- Hanok New Town in Seongbuk-dong (cityscape)
- Public bike rental services bloom in Seoul and around (culture)
- Yangmiok (food)
- Baek nyeon chueotang (food)
- Noodle road, from laghman to ramyeon (food)
- Saint Patrick's Festival Seoul (culture)
- Shaken and stirred (health)
- Saemangeum Gunsan Free Economic Zone - SGFEZ (cityscape)
- Back from Menilmuche (cityscape)
- IKEA Korea (business)
- Seoul Through Pictures 6 (cityscape)
- DMC aims at Tinseltown - welcome to Hallyuwood ! (business)
- Sinchon reloaded - Sinchon Global Zone (cityscape)
- Impressions papier Hanji (culture)
- Sungwoo Barber Shop, Malli-dong Market (cityscape)
- Yongsan Park - fake forests and real estates (cityscape)
- NK 4.0 ? Kim Jong-il's latest son is only 7 (politics)
- Seoul Art Space Yeonhui (culture)
- New subway cars for lines 5678 (cityscape)
- New Korean Model - continued (business)
- Seoul Photography Festival, Marc Chagall, 40 years of Gangnam (culture)
- The End of the Korean Model ? (business)
- Seoul subway updates : gos, no-gos, maybes (cityscape)

2010 posts:

2010 q4
- Happy new year (culture)
- 2010 Seoul Town Meeting (politics)
- La Celtique (food)
- Drill, baby, drill ! (politics)
- Seoul Skate to reopen Ice Rink on Seoul Plaza (culture)
- Project Obangsaek: a ROKumentary (culture)
- Seoul Marche de Noel (food)
- A National Museum of Korean Contemporary History ???(culture)
- We need to talk about Kim (politics)
- Yi Sun-shin drives away (cityscape)
- G20 Seoul Summit 2010 (politics)
- AREX on time for Seoul - Gimpo - Incheon (cityscape)
- The Great Korean Revolution : addresses with house numbers and street names (cityscape)
- The fastuous and the furious : trimming down Seoul city's most embarrassing projects (cityscape)
- SGBSC + KBC : small business & big party (business)
- KOREA JoongAng Daily, IHT inside (business)
- Every Second Sunday (culture)

2010 q3
- Chuseoaked (cityscape)
- Chuseok dreams : tunnels between Korea, China, and Japan (cityscape)
- TRCK : families of victims demand essential follow-up (politics)
- Reconsidering Sejongno Park (cityscape)
- Insadong - Bukchon seamless for pedestrians (cityscape)
- KIAF, Busan Biennale, and Gwangju Biennale (culture)
- Hi Seoul Festival (culture)
- Yeongam-gun braces for inaugural Formula One Grand Prix (sports)
- Kyobo Bookstore Reopens (culture)
- N.K. 3.0 rebooted - and relocated (politics)
- ICN : simplified immigration procedures for (some) foreigners (politics)
- Jongno Elegy (culture)
- Gwanghwamun inauguration (cityscape)
- The strange case of Dr Andre KIM and Mr KIM Bong-nam (culture)
- Gyeonggyojang back to Donuimun (cityscape)
- Seoul Open Night (culture)
- "6.25 and I"(culture)
- KOTRA opens an Investment Consulting Center to boost FDI (business)
- Business Start-up School - 3rd Session (September) (business)
- Hahoe Village now a UNESCO World Heritage site (culture)
- After the Cheonan Tragedy : the Juche, Sunshine, or China Line ? (politics)
- ASYAAF 2010 (culture)
- Online sales become the first distribution channel in Korea - or is door-to-door back ? (business)
- Gwanghwamun Unveiled !!! (cityscape)
- KUAI 19 (Seoul) (food)
- congdu (Seoul) (food)
- Seoul Digital Media City Tour (cityscape)
- Changdeokgung : from station to station to ashes to ashes (cityscape)
- Electric buses, Smart Chargers : Seoul is really getting serious (cityscape)
- Seoul Global Business Support Center (business)

2010 q2
- About handovers and hangovers (politics)
- Gwanghwamun restoration : too bballi-bballi ? (culture)
- Jongno-gu renovation - continued (cityscape)
- Twice red faced, after hours (sports)
- 1950 Seoul - 6.25 60th Anniversary Special Exhibition (culture)
- Moraenae Seollongtang (food)
- "Be The Reds", But Not Too Red ? (culture)
- Arrested redevelopment (cityscape)
- Pangyo from scratch to crash (cityscape)
- International Archival Culture Exhibition (culture)
- OH Se-hoon V2.0 (politics)
- Seoul National University, a league of their own (sports)
- Smoke free Korea winning ground (cityscape)
- UNESCO World Conference on Arts Education in Seoul, 7 more candidates for the World Heritage List (culture)
- Seoul Rooftops Go Green (cityscape)
- A Retrospective : Kim Ki-chan and the World of Alleys (culture)
- Anheung's Foggy Dew (culture)
- Hyeongjae Sikdang (food)
- Seohaean Haemul Mat Jib (food)
- Yeonhuigol Gumteo (food)
- DMZ bicycle tour, anyone ? (cityscape)
- Friendship Fair (culture, food)
- Business Start-Up School Program and other Seoul Global Center events (business)
- Tour de Korea (sports)
- Lotus Lantern Festival (culture)
- Yeonhui-dong Kalguksu (food)
- A bump in the road for serviced residences in Korea ? (business)
- A World Cup Bridge for 2015 (cityscape)
- "Global Cluster Building" in Seorin-dong (culture)
- Seoul Plaza Hotel joins the renovation frenzy (cityscape)
- Rodin Retrospective in Seoul (culture)
- ICN Volcano Resort (business)
- The people, the Republic of Korea, and pictures - What's in an exhibition ? (culture)
- Otto Dix in Seoul (culture)
- Seoul city center in Namsan ? Heresy !!! (cityscape)
- FixMyStreet, will you ? (cityscape)
- OH Se-hoon launches the "Seoul Human Town" concept (cityscape)
- Spectacular extensions of Seoul Subway Lines 4-5-6-7 ? (cityscape)
- May 2010 edition of Hi Seoul Festival cancelled - the mayoral race is on (politics)
- "Unguarded Moments" - Steve McCurry in Seoul (culture)
- Ssamziegil without Ssamzie ? (cityscape)
- Red carpet for the World Cup (sports)
- 2012 : zero trans fat (business)
- u-Shelters : smart bus stops in Seoul (cityscape)
- Sajik-dan enshrined, Naeja-dong revived ? (cityscape)

2010 q1
- Tighten your greenbelt (cityscape)
- Korean Air Grounded : Seoul 7 Star Hotel Delayed (cityscape)
- Pimatgol, a streamlet runs through it (cityscape)
- The Empress's Last Bang (history)
- Riverside bicycle road extended to Hanam (cityscape)
- Civil-service satisfaction keeps rising in Seoul (politics)
- Next target : the Supreme Court ? (politics)
- Joeunjib (food)
- Find a name for SGC's new business center at COEX (SGC)
- Expats in Korea : have your say ! (culture)
- Business Start-up Education Program - Seoul Global Center (SGC)
- Apateu Fashion and Houses of cards (cityscape)
- Bob Dylan knock knock knockin' on Seoul's door (culture)
- Kyobo Bookstore v2 (culture)
- Subway news : Sillim line, Line 3... (cityscape)
- Happy New Year Of The Golden (Silver) Tiger (cityscape)
- Visit Korea 2010-2012 (culture)
- Take a ride on the wild side - Peace Bicycle Nuri Road - DMZ (cityscape)
- MOCA at Defense Security Command - continued (culture)
- Yongsan-Gangnam-Bundang subway completed in 2017 (cityscape)
- Ari, Arirang, Ari, Ariul City (cityscape)
- Universal Studios Korea in Hwaseong (culture)
- Spotlights on the Russian Legation (cityscape)
- TRCK lost in translation or lost in transition ? (politics)
- Let it snow (cityscape)
- INCA and other Peruvian civilizations, National Museum of Korea (culture)

2009 posts:

2009 q4
- Happy new year (culture)
- Pyeongchang 2018 vs Sejong City 2010 ? (politics)
- No cars on Gwanghwamun Square for New Year's Day (cityscape)
- Revisionist schoolbooks : change has not come to Japan (politics)
- Hangeul, take a Bau-Bau (culture)
- GOH Kun to head social unity council (politics)
- Seoul 2010 Festivals and World Design Capital Events (culture)
- Seoul Village Boutique (culture)
- Sandeullae - Paju (food)

- Seoul Goes Underground (cityscape)
- No parking (cityscape)

- Achievements and Tasks of TRCK's Activities (politics)
- Monet, Picasso, Rouault, Warhol in Seoul (culture)
- Business for the Environment Global Summit 2010 in Seoul (cityscape)
- Streaming Seoul 2009 (culture)
- Winter Sports at Gwanghwamun Square (culture)
- North Korea's lost won (politics)
- CJ Group announces BBGO, an international bibimbap restaurant chain (food)
- Salgotyi Bridge
- Sejong City and the beauty of lameduckhood (politics)
- Haemil construction, continued (game interrupted) (politics)
- Silgyecheon along Daehangno (cityscape)
- Lost In Translation ? (politics)
- Binding praise for South Korea (politics)
- Pyongyang: A Journey in North Korea (Guy Delisle) (culture)
- Marche de Noel 2009 Sorae Village (food)

- Bo Chun (food)
- 2 more tunnels up North (cityscape)
- Wangsimni Old Town (cityscape)
- According to the Japanese law, Dokdo is not Japanese (politics)
- Joint memorial in the Land of the Mourning Calm (politics)
- Wrong answer, wrong question (politics - published in JoongAng Ilbo)
- Goghi (food)
- Stop the Hanok genocide... and stop revival as reenactment (cityscape)
- Baekundongcheon / Gwanghwamun-gil - A River Runs Through It (cityscape)
- Eunpyeong New Town, Old Tombs (culture)
- Dongdaemun History Culture Park (cityscape)
- Anheung Jjinbbang (food)
- de Vermis Ttukseomis (culture)
- Ranju Ramien (food)
- Truth and Reconciliation : which model for Korea ? (politics)
- Dunnae Minsokchon (food)
- Shinhotan, Beginning of a new Era - a big MOCA cup for Seoul (culture)

- Donuimun Restauration and Sadaemun Resurrection (cityscape)
- Seongbuk-dong Maemil Sujebi Nurungjibaeksuk (food)
- Santa Sejong is coming to town (culture)

- A common history (politics)
- Mayor Oh Se-hoon answers (politics)
- Kim Jong-il's bridge to nowhere (politics)

2009 q3
- dragedies and Seoul crumbs (culture)

- Sejong City (cityscape)
- Seoul Village Map (culture)
- Chung Mong-joon keeps rising... (politics)
- Gwangju completes the Seongnam-Hanam merger (politics)
- In 2050, almost 10% of Korea's population will not be Korean (politics)
- President Lee, please keep digging (politics - published in JoongAng Ilbo)
- Japan : let's (East) see (politics)
- Donguibogam listed in UNESCO's Memory of the World Register (culture)
- We don't need no education. Do we ? (politics)
- Naro-1 took off (culture)
- Clean Air in Seoul (culture)
- Seongnam and Hanam merge (cityscape)
- Seoul Fringe Festival (culture)
- Seoul Open Night (culture)

- Kim Dae-jung - the Commander's Statue (politics)
- Bike friendly subway trains and stations (cityscape)
- Gocheok-dong baseball stadium will be domed (cityscape)
- Hoehyeon-dong overpass passes away (cityscape)
- Gwanghwamun Plaza - The Aftermath (cityscape)
- Hangeul lands in Bau-Bau, Indonesia... to save the Cia ! (culture)
- Incheon Women Artists' Biennale (culture)
- Gwanghwamun Square - Preview (cityscape)
- Jongno-gu boars love goguma (culture, food)
- ASYAAF 2009 (culture)

- The Sandwich (food)
- Korean food under attack ! (culture, food)

- Seoul Subway Line 9 (cityscape)
- Seoul Village Movies (culture)
- Myeongdong Gyoja (food)

- The Incredible Shrinking Korea (culture, politics)
- Burning money in Korea (culture)
- Botero v. Renoir (culture)

2009 q2
- Royal Joseon Tombs Become UNESCO World Heritage Properties (culture)
- Taco Chili Chili (food)
- Wonjo Ddeokbokki - a.k.a. Ddeoknimmun (food)
- A silver lining over Seoul mountains (cityscape)
- KIM Jong-nam, Beijing's puppet ? (politics)
- Bukcheongol (food)
- Gogi Ssam Naengmyon (food)
- A Yellow Sea for Roh Moo-hyun (politics)
- Seoul 25 "Gu" - Seoul Map (cityscape)
- Roh Moo-hyun follows Pierre Beregovoy (politics)
- Happiness according to Le Clezio (culture)
- Jongno-gu dongs (cityscape)
- Cafe Sobahn (food)
- Jongmyo Ghosts (culture)
- Rossini (food)
- Bongchu Jjimdak (food)
- Obok Shikdang (food)

- Gwanghwamun Jib (food)
- Le Saint Ex (food)
- Gongxi Myeongwan (food)
- Namuga Ineun Jib (food)
- Cheonjin Poja (food)

- Ssamziegil (culture)
- Korean Hotels call for help - The Fifth Star (food - culture - politics)
- Hi Seoul Festival 2009 - and beyond (culture)
- Amsa-dong Prehistoric Settlement (culture)
- Seoul loves cycling... even around Gwanghwamun (cityscape)
- Great Wall of China - Anschlussing Korea (continued) (politics)
- King Danjong and Korea's Curse (culture)
- Gonghwachun - Incheon (food)
- Patisserie B (food)
- Sabal (food)
- Between cronyism and cryonics : enter Jang Song-taek (politics)

- Jongno Chapssal Sundae at Seosomun Apt (cityscape - food)
- Korean Cuisine Aiming At Top 5 - China Is Watching (food - culture - politics)

- Yeouido blooming and Danghyeoncheon's "Philosopher's Walk" (cityscape)

2009 q1
- Inwangsan's Great Wall and Seoul's Royal "T" Time (cityscape)
- Welcome to Pimatgol (culture - food)
- Haemil - a Think-tank or only a tank ? (politics)
- Seoul Haechi Taxis - Orange Cabs (culture)
- 50000 Won bank notes (culture)
- Pierre Gagnaire a Seoul (food)
- Gustav Klimt at Seoul Arts Center - Pompidou at SeMA (culture)
- Jongmyo - Changdeokgung Reunited (culture)
- Year of Spamchi (food)

2008 posts:

2008 q4
- Annus Horribilis (food - culture)
- Open Air Pool (culture)
- Gwanghwamun Square (cityscape)
- Seoul Velib' (cityscape)
- Korea Snubs History (politics)
- China Ready to Bail out North Korea (politics)

2008 q3

- Forest Dump (cityscape)

- - KIAF 2008 (culture)
- Hameung Naengmyeon (food)
- Kim Jong-ill ? (politics)

- Buldozing Seoul again - Dongdaemun Design Plaza, New City Hall (cityscape)
- Wonseo-dong's Cheonggyecheon (cityscape)
- Miryang Son Mandu (food)
- Hyewha-dong Rotary (cityscape)
- Chuck Close at Sungkok Art Museum (culture)
- National Museum of Korea indeed (culture - politics)
- Jyeong-dong Guk Si (food)
- Media in Korea (culture - links)
- Waiting for the next Olympic Games (culture)
- Korea on the rocks Part II (politics)
- Haeinsa Temple Janggyeong Panjeon (culture)
- Seoul Village go Lively (culture)
- Korea's 16 provinces and metro cities (culture - links)
- Seoul City advertising campaign (culture)
- New Towns and preservation (cityscape)

2008 q2
- Haka and axing in Gwanghwamun (politics)
- Sinsikdang (food)
- Restaurants in Korea (food - list)
- Beefing up Korea (culture - food)
- 25 Myeonok (food)
- Claiming Dokdo as "Takeshima" equals claiming Seoul as Gyeongsong-bu (politics)
- 7 zones (cityscape)
- Goodbye HiSeoul, Hello Haechi (culture)
- Festival Season(s) (culture)
- Chungwon Hwaegwan (food)
- Mabang Jib (food)
- Mirak (food)
- Ojangdong Hamheung Naengmyeon (food)
- Woojeong Nakji (food)
- baNK accounts and other accounts for historians (politics)

2008 q1

- Namdaemonium (culture)
- The Bulldozer Canal (politics)
- One million aliens (culture)

2007 posts:

2007 h2
- 12 degrees of separation (politics)
- Return to Naganeupseong (culture)
- Today's news (headlines - links)
- Save Korean Maemis (culture)
- Dog Day Afternoon (culture)
- Photographs (culture)

2007 h1
- Last Cig (2005) (culture)
- The Gaon (food)
- Sejongno (cityscape)
- Damyang (culture)
- Carrefour Junggye (culture)
- Junggye Maeul (culture)
- Hwangak-dong (culture)
- Nowon-gu map (cityscape)
- Nowon-gu (cityscape)
- De Vermis Seoulis (culture)
- About Seoul Village (culture)


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