Namdaesunrise, Seoul Friendship Fair 2013, and other spring classics

To me, this week-end marks the true beginning of Spring in Seoul.

Yes, we've had lovely days so far in 2013, but at times, it felt like February never stopped, and nowadays, I feel glad to inhale fresh lilac instead of toxic nanoparticles or lethal macropoliticles*. Furthermore, I've been bracing for two events:

• the reopening of Sungnyemun to the public (Sunday), five long years after "Namdaemonium". I bet the signboard will be more carefully finished than that of Gwanghwamun a couple of years ago...
• the reopening of international food stalls for my favorite festival, Seoul Friendship Fair (Saturday and Sunday). As usual**, I'll shamelessly come for the food, but there's a lot to see around City Hall: Seoul Plaza, Mugyo-dong, Cheonggyecheon - check out the program and international performances: seoulfriendshipfair.org.

Caught in the Seoul traffic with Sungnyemun. That's not a k-pop star: she's much cuter, has better conversation pic.twitter.com/J1n5wC6LKk - twitter.com/theseoulvillage/status/329023620355596289

If you're in town Sunday, there's also the Jongmyo Jerye and a collection of events around Children's Day. KMA announces 20 celcius and sun for both days. So everything is set, including Admiral Yi and King Sejong, who took their yearly shower yesterday:

Also met Yi Sun-sin on the way. He was about to take his yearly shower on Gwanghwamun Square. #jongno #seoul pic.twitter.com/ZKlUqV0aTa - twitter.com/theseoulvillage/status/329034058321506305

Enjoy Seoul to the fullest!

Seoul Village 2013
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* see for instance "Air Pollution: New Measures, Please" and "Dear Japan, Please Say No To Abeignomics"
** see "Seoul Friendship Fair 2012, Global Seoul Mates", "Seoul Friendship Fair 2011", "Seoul Friendship Fair" 2010)

Yi Sun-shin drives away

As soon as the G20 Seoul Summit 2010 non-event got packed, Admiral Yi Sun-shin was awarded a few months leave from his position at the lower end of Gwanghwamun Square.

His iron statue was removed today, and driven to a rejuvenating lair probably less glamour than Chaum, CHA Hospital recently inaugurated upscale anti-ageing center*.

I sincerely hope Yi won't come back with the same golden tan as his new neighbor King Sejong (see "Santa Sejong is coming to town").

Anyway, living in Gwanghwamun is a bit like watching a Korean drama : new twists happen every day, but they are quite foreseeable** and you often end up with the same bankable stars.

On the brighter side : since the gate reopened, tourists have been swarming all across the square***. And those who just came for Korean dramas will come back for Seoul.

Seoul Village 2010

* a spectacular, holistic concept for VIPs in the heart of Gangnam, which also happens to be the heart of Korea's booming medical tourism. A reference in birth (and stem cells), CHA Hospital remains ahead of Korean trends and demographics.
** even if, when I wrote "Gwanghwamun restoration : too bballi-bballi ?", I didn't expect the gate to show signs of alteration that quickly : big cracks appeared on its seal just weeks after the inauguration.
*** and the Sejongno Park is yet to be redesigned.

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UPDATE 20101117

Along with the screen where visitors can appear in Yi's outfit, the statue's pedestal has been animated with an original installation by Yi Je-seok : where the Admiral stood, a huge fitting room, his armor lying on the wall, and the message "undressing" (daluijung) on the door. The King will come out of the closet (no pun intended) on December the 22nd, 2010.

UPDATE 20101210

Oh my gold : I saw pictures of the statue in its lair, and it will have the same coating as King Sejong's (a bit like a cheap plastic Disney toy). Now even Seoul's new baby Haechi character looks scarier than Yi with its fangs. Who the hell is in charge of statues out there ?

UPDATE 20101223

Phew. He's back, but he's not doning gold : after many hesitations, officials opted for a lighter dark color.

Santa Sejong is coming to town

As expected, the 10 meter high bronze statue of King Sejong and the exhibition space below were inaugurated on Gwanghwamun Square for Hangeul Day.

Pictures of the statue in its workshop had been previously exhibited, so it's not as if Seoul people discovered all of a sudden their favorite hero in its golden glory.

But today, watching Sejong Dae Hwang sitting in the sun with a big kind smile on his round face, I couldn't help but thinking about Santa Claus calling the next kid on his lap : come read the Hunminjeongeum Haerye with me... Have you been a good boy last year ? You'd better or I call the big ironclad fella down the street...

That would be Admiral YI Sun-shin, or rather the impressive statue of Korea's other hero who'd been guarding Sejongno over the past decades, waiting for the Great King to return to the boulevard named after him.

Waging war is not what Korea is about. What this perspective teaches us is that culture and education are treasures worth rediscovering every day. They sometimes need protection, but are meant for every citizen and visitor to enjoy.

Meanwhile, the next landmark to be unwrapped, Gwanghwamun itself (the gate), keeps rising under its colorful hangar : wooden pillars have recently been erected, along with lateral doors and staircases.

Seoul Village 2009

Gwanghwamun Square

The new Gwanghwamun Square (광화문 광장) will be inaugurated in June 2009.

Actually, the square is a rectangle stretching over 740 m all along Sejongno, from Gwanghwamun itself (still under renovation in its original location) to the Statue of Admiral Yi Sun-shin at the cross with Jongro and Shinmunro.

Until now, eight lanes of traffic were separated by a thin green band hosting old gingko trees. The idea is to develop the central section, open it to the public, and turn the whole street into a large plaza for special occasions. So this rectangle will be 10 to 34 m wide depending on the days, and much bigger if you include the large pavements on both sides.

The street itself will be fully paved to turn the landscape into a continuous plane of mineral and water. Forget about natural shade in the central part... I gather authorities wanted to make sure they could easily monitor crowds in such a strategic space. A reminder ? Within a few hundred meters : Korea's Presidential Grounds (Cheonghwadae) and Central Government buildings, Seoul Metropolitan Police Agency, the US Embassy...

People will access this new cultural hub via lateral pedestrial crossings, and a gentle slope starting from Gwanghwamun Station, under Yi's feet. The Admiral will have some company : a statue of King Sejong himself, a little higher on the strip. After all, this road is named after him, not the great commander. Besides, two Haechi statues are to be installed on each side of Gwanghwamun. And not just to celebrate the new symbol of Seoul (see "Goodbye HiSeoul, hello Haechi") : you can see the stone lions on almost every old picture of Gwanghwamun.

On certain pictures, a streamlet appears in front of the gate. The Junghakcheon, which connected to Cheonggyecheon, will be restored on the Eastern side of the Square, but symbolically : in this one meter wide and five centimeter deep Amazon, even maemis should be safe from drowning (remember "Save Korean Maemis" ?). More spectacular waterworks shall animate Gwanghwamun Square around Yi Sun-shin.

The concept ? 600 hundred years of history celebrated in thematic sections, with a central section devoted to "Art" which, thanks to the new pedestrian crossings, almost draws a bridge between two local cultural spots : the Sejong Cultural Center and the less famous KT Building, a cool place where I like to have a drink while listening to decent jazz (friendly live concerts).

Overall, it will reinstate downtown's traditional center and shorten distances between major cultural places. Passers-by will again own the heart of the city, and enjoy a better view on its most prestigious and beautiful perspective : Yi, Gwanghwamun, Gyeongbokgung, Cheonghwadae, Bukhansan.


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A movie on the restoration :

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ADDENDUM 20090730 and 20090811

see updates right before the inauguration ("Gwanghwamun Square - Preview") and a few days after ("Gwanghwamun Plaza - The Aftermath").