Looking for five star tripes ? Head for Yangmiok, maybe the best gopchang in town. Or maybe I should write "daechang" because their speciality, beyond lamb, is large intestine.
Not very glamorous I know, but as a French citizen in Seoul, I'm often longing for a perfectly grilled AAAAA andouillette, and grilled tripes are the best alternative to that. Back home I wasn't a great fan since we Frogs prefer our tripes wet and soaked in sauce (for instance a la mode de Caen)... not my cup of tea*. In Korea, charcoal grill is the main option and at Yangmiok's, you can have a beef-lamb combo and alternate between really greasy parts and drier ones, and they taste so delicious you don't realize your own stomach is full until you've surpassed its limits.
Not very poetic I now, but this is not about poetry, even if at this stage, one should consider gopchang as art.
As far as the veggie alibi goes, you've got a very nice tofu/herb banchan, salad, and a quite decent ugeoji (우거지) doenjang jjigae which you can sit on the grill to make it boil on charcoal.
And on a lighter note, you finish with the finest nurungji (누룽지) I ever tasted. That's the simple scorched rice in boiling water.
YANGMIOK (restaurant)
Uljiro branch: 161 Euljiro 3-ga, Jung-gu, SEOUL, KOREA
Tel +82.2.2275.8838
COEX branch: 153-55, Samseong-dong, Gangnam-gu, SEOUL, KOREA
Tel +82.2.565.8836
Seoul Village 2011
* attn my English friends: that's a figure of speech - I wouldn't dare comparing your national beverage to such a vulgar dish.
Showing posts with label doenjang jjigae. Show all posts
Showing posts with label doenjang jjigae. Show all posts
Wednesday, March 23, 2011
Sunday, October 25, 2009
Dunnae Minsokchon (Dunnae)
Don't be deterred by the name and decor of this restaurant : if "Dunnae Folk Village" is abusively covered with traditional and wooden artifacts, their food is the real stuff : not make-believe junk, but simple country food with an intense and unique taste. The kind of meals that deserve a trip if you really love Korean food, and like to discover new / old tastes.
Definitely the perfect stop after a morning in Gangwon-do forests and fields, enjoying their autumn best : even a few hours after eating about one and a half Korean cow (hanu) in every possible ways, I felt positively ravenous.
Still now, one day later, I'm drooling just remembering a few dishes :
- side dishes (banchan / 반찬) featuring mountain herbs (san namul / 산나물)
- Deodeok gui (더덕구이) : grilled deodok. Deodeok (도덕) is a variety of bellflower (codonopsis lanceolata) similar to toraji. Fibers seem softer.
- Taegisan Dodeok Sundae (태기산 더덕순대) : intestine / blood sausage with dodeok from nearby Taegi mountain.
- chondubu (촌두부) : a fantastic "village tofu / dubu" - You can have it with soy sauce or gimchi, but I liked it best as it came : in a very light warm broth, probably plain water with a touch of cereal, giving a slightly smoky flavor.
- namul doenjang jjigae (나물 된장찌게) : since I'm used to the best homemade doenjang, I'm difficult to move for this classic. This one is really ok.
- dondeure namulbab (돈드레 나물밥) : healthy rice and herbs bibim with doenjang sauce
- biji jjigae (비지찌개) : no meat, and an incredible taste. It reminded me of the feeling I have when I savor my favorite rich bread soup in the deep Perigord Noir (the one you finish with red wine before attacking the confit de canard pommes sarladaises... if you still have room left after the foie gras).
- ... I'm probably missing one or two steps there but that's part of the game.
Seoul Village 2009
Dunnae Minsokchon / 돈내 민속촌 (restaurant)
Gangwon-do, Hoengseong-gun, Dunnae-myeon, Dunnae, ROK
From the market, the street along the stream right before the bridge. About half a mile after the school.
Tel : +82.33.342.7807.5949
PS: thank you Mr Bae, from Byeolmuri pension, for the address.
Definitely the perfect stop after a morning in Gangwon-do forests and fields, enjoying their autumn best : even a few hours after eating about one and a half Korean cow (hanu) in every possible ways, I felt positively ravenous.
Still now, one day later, I'm drooling just remembering a few dishes :
- side dishes (banchan / 반찬) featuring mountain herbs (san namul / 산나물)
- Deodeok gui (더덕구이) : grilled deodok. Deodeok (도덕) is a variety of bellflower (codonopsis lanceolata) similar to toraji. Fibers seem softer.
- Taegisan Dodeok Sundae (태기산 더덕순대) : intestine / blood sausage with dodeok from nearby Taegi mountain.
- chondubu (촌두부) : a fantastic "village tofu / dubu" - You can have it with soy sauce or gimchi, but I liked it best as it came : in a very light warm broth, probably plain water with a touch of cereal, giving a slightly smoky flavor.
- namul doenjang jjigae (나물 된장찌게) : since I'm used to the best homemade doenjang, I'm difficult to move for this classic. This one is really ok.
- dondeure namulbab (돈드레 나물밥) : healthy rice and herbs bibim with doenjang sauce
- biji jjigae (비지찌개) : no meat, and an incredible taste. It reminded me of the feeling I have when I savor my favorite rich bread soup in the deep Perigord Noir (the one you finish with red wine before attacking the confit de canard pommes sarladaises... if you still have room left after the foie gras).
- ... I'm probably missing one or two steps there but that's part of the game.
Seoul Village 2009
Dunnae Minsokchon / 돈내 민속촌 (restaurant)
Gangwon-do, Hoengseong-gun, Dunnae-myeon, Dunnae, ROK
From the market, the street along the stream right before the bridge. About half a mile after the school.
Tel : +82.33.342.7807.5949
PS: thank you Mr Bae, from Byeolmuri pension, for the address.
Sunday, May 17, 2009
Obok Shikdang (Namhae)
Gyeongsangnam-do, Namhae-gun, Namhae-eup, ROK (NAMHAE, ROK)
Obok Shikdang / 오복식당 (restaurant)
Tel : +82.55.864.7265 (?)
Actually, I'm not sure for the phone number. I caught this one months later on the web, after browsing old pictures of that crushingly hot summer day in Namhae. The name of the restaurant appears in a corner, on the wrong side of the window. I remember putting it there on purpose, in case.
From the start, we landed in this Obok Shikdang by accident or, as it turned out, out of blind luck. Looking for a place to eat in Namhae's market, we went to the only one that accepted us that late in the afternoon.
And had the most exquisite haemul doenjang jjigae ever.
This was not your usual doenjang jjigae flavored with seafood but a completely new experience altogether. A variety of outsanding "banchan" (side dishes) confirmed this memorable lunch.
The old owner was embarrassingly kind enough to walk us back to the market... and even helped us get good quality anchovies (멸치) from a merchant who kept proposing junk for export.
Knock knock knockin' on Heaven's door...
SM 2008
Obok Shikdang / 오복식당 (restaurant)
Tel : +82.55.864.7265 (?)
Actually, I'm not sure for the phone number. I caught this one months later on the web, after browsing old pictures of that crushingly hot summer day in Namhae. The name of the restaurant appears in a corner, on the wrong side of the window. I remember putting it there on purpose, in case.
From the start, we landed in this Obok Shikdang by accident or, as it turned out, out of blind luck. Looking for a place to eat in Namhae's market, we went to the only one that accepted us that late in the afternoon.
And had the most exquisite haemul doenjang jjigae ever.
This was not your usual doenjang jjigae flavored with seafood but a completely new experience altogether. A variety of outsanding "banchan" (side dishes) confirmed this memorable lunch.
The old owner was embarrassingly kind enough to walk us back to the market... and even helped us get good quality anchovies (멸치) from a merchant who kept proposing junk for export.
Knock knock knockin' on Heaven's door...
SM 2008
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