MMCA Seoul from above

The recently rebranded National Museum of Modern and Contemporary Art, Korea unveiled this video of the MMCA Seoul branch to be inaugurated this November (see "MOCA goes MMCA - Museum of Modern and Contemporary Art"):




I like the vivid rendering of the neighborhood:

• starting northwards, along Samcheong-ro: to the left the Gyeongbokgung, to the right Sogyeok-dong galleries and the new museum, with in the distance Bugaksan

• the virtual camera turns to the right and the former DSC's main building, which shed its white coating to bare its red bricks - and still those wonderful semicircular staircases I caught by night under last month's Supermoon:



"Supermoon" over the future #MMCASeoul
twitter.com/theseoulvillage/status/348434489560686593

Very spectacular from the inside as well. I took this picture during the 2009 ASYAAF (NB: don't forget: this year's edition is back to Culture Station Seoul 284 - until August 18 for the second part)



• about halfway into the video, we're slowing down before the next building, to enjoy the now cleared view on the large hanok in the background.

• we then start taking off slowly to appreciate the renovations and extensions, the gardens and green rooftops, and a well located terrasse at the corner with Bukchon-ro 5-gil

• before fading away to make room for the MMCA logo, the whole block is visible (Yulgok-ro to the South, Gamgodang-gil to the East, Samcheong-ro to the West, Bukchon-ro 5-gil to the North)

I won't say that I'm thrilled by the architecture, which reminds me a bit of my old ESSEC Campus (vintage 1973) before its renovation, but this project does mark an improvement for the neighborhood. At least if you compare it to the past (a low-rise open space replacing the gated Defense Security Command), or to Yongsan's criminal NMK (yes I love the National Museum of Korea, but from the outside doesn't it look like a ceausescuesque cinder block?).

Anyway, we shall judge MMCA Seoul from the inside, with all its hidden levels and services, and of course fully populated with collections, exhibitions, and humans.

I can't wait!


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ASYAAF 2012

Back to square one. After a brilliant edition at the soon-to-become UUL museum (then the Defense Security Command - see "ASYAAF 2009"), a mediocre stunt at Sungshin Women's University ("ASYAAF 2010"), and a decent performance at the Hongik Museum of Art ("ASYAAF 2011"), the Asian Students and Young Artists Art Festival is back to where it all began: ye olde Seoul Station, now Culture Station Seoul 284.


The concept doesn't change: art from 777 young Asian artists, split into 2 waves (August 1 - 12 / August 14 - 26), with a break in between to distribute the works. And like last year, 9 nations are represented: BAN, CHN, IDN, IND, JAP, KOR, JAP, PAK, SIN, TWN. No medals awarded, except for the red dots signalling sold pieces.


ASYAAF 2012
August 1 - 26
Culture Station Seoul 284
1 Tongil-ro, Jung-gu, Seoul 100-162 website: asyaaf.chosun.com




Seoul Village 2012
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SeMA to block blockbusters

Seoul's blockbuster exhibition frenzy* may cool down a few notches. As we saw over the past few years, Van Gogh, Monet, Renoir, Klimt, Rodin, Warhol, or Chagall came to town in unprecedented waves, while at the other end of the spectrum, younger generations got a pretty nice share of spotlight**. Unsurprisingly, confirmed Korean artists didn't receive the attention they deserved, so the new head of the Seoul Museum of Art wants to switch to a more balanced diet*** (NB: I promise, that's it for my f***g ***s today).

Even if it doesn’t look as impressive as the massive Seoul Art Center complex in Seocho-gu, SeMA does have a lot of space to fill, but it's split between different venues. Until now, the editorial line looked (a little bit) like this:

• for power hitters: the main building in Jung-gu (former Supreme Court HQ in Seosomun). Bonus: print and TV ads, plus bright flag advertising banners all along Deoksugung-gil.
• for minor league players: a small yet cute Nam Seoul annex in Gwanak-gu (the former Belgian Embassy in Namhyeon-dong). Bonus: subliminal pop-ups on SeMA’s website.
• for little league toddlers: an architectural mess at the entrance of Gyeonghuigung (picture the roof of Munich Olympiastadion next to a royal palace – Prada Transformer did a much better job for the contrast). Bonus: the place seems to open only between 2.37 and 3.45 AM on certain holidays every leap year (of course I’m exaggerating: I remember among other successes a recent Seoul Photo Festival)
• Note that SeMA also acts as an incubator for promising artists in Mapo-gu (Nanji Art Space in Sangam-dong, in the Seoul Art Space spirit)

Significantly, these days, SeMA stars Yann Arthus Bertrand in yet another photo expo milking his Earth from Above series and Home movie ("It's my home"). Seosomun building also hosts a less advertized show about "Korean Abstract Painting - 10 Perspectives", and chances are I won't go all the way down South to see the most original program ("Where's my friend's home?" almost seems tailored for the Seoul Museum of History).

Typically, the new boss, who only took over a few days ago, wants to make more room for Korean artists in their 40s and 50s, and why not, to push beyond walls, towards the charming walkway of Deoksugung-gil (the museum gardens were already used as a stage in recent expos, and a couple of years ago, a trio of bronze sculptures featured at KIAF 2008 has been permanently installed across the entrance, by the palace walls).

It would take a Paik Nam-june to bring the same crowds as the blockbusters of the Noughties, but I don’t think that’s the aim of the game anymore. It’s not about flash events featuring big brands, but about brand building for art itself: now people must come even when there isn't a big name. Museum executives used to outsource the organization to a well connected producer: they will now have to do their jobs, and to contribute to a vast pedagogy effort that must also involve the media and school systems.

If SeMA already contributed a lot to the democratization of modern and contemporary art in Seoul, it cannot fulfill all its missions and fill all its venues with blockbusters occulting the rest (which also includes such recurrent events as the Media Art Biennale or the Print Biennal). So it can leave classic blockbusters to say the SAC, and devote more energy to more ambitious programs and to permanent collections... even if, of course, it cannot build as extensive a collection as the MOCA's (SeMA does propose a decent exhibition of its New acquisitions every year, though).

Speaking of the National Museum Of Contemporary Art: here too, a new chief has just been named this very week. Among the big challenges: preparing the inauguration of the "UUL National Art Museum" next year (reminder: the former Defense Security Command in Sogyeok-dong, a future landmark).

This period of fine tuning in normal considering the boom of the past years, as Seoul caught up with fellow world capitals in cultural infrastructures. As a younger player, it can learn from past mistakes. For instance, as a Parisian, it's interesting to see how long it took for the Musee d'Art Moderne to adapt to the new 'competitive environment' following the success of Centre George Pompidou.

To be continued.

Seoul Village 2012
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*"Gustav Klimt at Seoul Arts Center - Pompidou at SeMA"

** see for instance the ASYAAF series

**"SeMA to shift away from 'blockbuster' exhibitions" (Korea JoongAng Daily 20120206)

Culture Station Seoul 284

After two years of renovation, the Old Seoul Station has just been reinaugurated as "Culture Station Seoul 284" (문화역서울 284), a name that echoes the status of this 111 year-old building (Korean Historic Site No. 284), as well as its new purpose.

Note that this red brick landmark already hosted ASYAAF 2008, and that the following year, the old Defense Security Command welcomed the memorable 2009 edition before experiencing itself a similar metamorphosis*.

The Former Seoul Station Building's metamorphosis is limited (the outer shell and the first two floors have been preserved) and progressive : a first exhibition starts today and will last until February 11, 2012, the official opening. In March 2012, all facilities will be fully functional.

So the countdown has started, and "Countdown" is precisely the name of the inaugural exhibition, where 20 Korean artists present their works or perform live.

Also starting today at the new venue : YIPPA 2011. Yonhap International Press Photo Awards 2011 are on display in 9 cities including NYC and Seoul. This year's thema, "Share the Moment, Share the Future", was a tribute to the UN Millennium Development Goals, and the Grand Prize went to AP's Emilio Morenatti for 'Cholera victims' :



Even if Cultural Station Seoul 284 (an echo to Paris 104 ?) seems less ambitious than the future MOCA, it fills a cultural void at a major gateway and shall welcome many visitors, including people in transit in this multimodal transportation hub.

What a decade for Seoul ! After the 2004-2005 wave (Leeum, Seoul Museum of History, new National Museum of Korea...), another batch of cultural venues is on its way : beyond this "284" and Seoul MOCA, let's not forget the future "National Museum of Contemporary History"**.

Culture Station Seoul 284" / 문화역서울 284 :
112 Bongnae-dong 2-ga, Jung-gu, Seoul, Korea
Dongja-dong, Yongsan-gu, Seoul
1 Tongil-ro, Jung-gu, Seoul 100-162***
seoulstation.org
YIPPA 2011 : yippa.net

Seoul Village 2011
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* a future key cultural asset, see "http://seoulvillage.blogspot.com/2010/02/moca-defense-security-command-continued.html"
** construction started soon after our focus (see "A National Museum of Korean Contemporary History ???").
*** They write "1 Dongil-ro" but the actual spelling is 1 Tongil-ro. Eastern Seoul's main axis (it follows subway line 3), Tongil-ro continues beyond Gupabal and Seoul city limits, but the axis used to be called Uiju-ro between Seoul Station and Hongeun Sageori. Yet another change for this Old Seoul Station Museum : the station's official address used to be 112 Bongnae-dong 2-ga, Jung-gu, but some people mentioned Dongja-dong in Yongsan-gu.

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20110907 UPDATE - now all documentations from this new cultural venue agree on the label "Culture Station Seoul 284" (good bye weird "cultural" then)

ASYAAF 2011

Obviously, I wasn't the only visitor disappointed by last year's edition of the Asian Students and Young Artists Art Festival, a complete dud compared to the previous one*.

The concept remains basically the same (works from 777 young artists from Korea and the rest of Asia on display and for sale), but organizers said a couple of months ago that this year, they would be more careful for the selection. Significantly, after Sungshin Women's University, they chose a venue more symbolic of Korean promising creative talents : Hongik University.

As usual, the Asian Students and Young Artists Art Festival will be split in two periods (July 27 - August 7 / August 10 - 22), with a break in between to change all the art works. Two good occasions to visit the HOMA (Hongik Museum of Art - Hongik University Hyundai Museum of Art).

I'll keep you posted after my raids so check for updates.

ASYAAF 2011
July 27 - August 22, 2011
Hongik Museum of Art / HOMA
Pavillion Hongmungwan 1, 2F,
Hongik University, Sangsu-dong, Mapo-gu, Seoul, ROK 121-791

Seoul Village 2011
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* see "ASYAAF 2010", ASYAAF 2009.

ASYAAF 2010

After Seoul Station ("When we first met") and the old Defense Security Command ("We meet the future"), the Asian Students and Young Artists Art Festival (titled "Open your eyes, look up the blue sky") will invade Sungshin Women's University.

Does SWU have a plan to turn into a museum ? As we saw earlier :
- Seoul Station, still under renovation, will host a major exhibition space. BTW: Seoul city is looking for pictures of meetings between Korean presidents and Seoul citizens, which used to take place there.
- the Defense Security Command will become the Seoul branch of the National Museum of Contemporary Art / MOCA (see "MOCA - Defense Security Command, continued"). BTW : we'll know within weeks the winner among the five finalist projects.

As usual (see ASYAAF 2009), ASYAAF will display works from 777 young talents from Korea and other Asian countries, with a break in the middle of the exhibition to replace all items with a new set. And as usual, I strongly advise art lovers to come twice : there's always some good surprise, sometimes where you least expect it, in the darkest corner of the building (see UPDATE BELOW).

Two innovations this year : Korean artists abroad are also participating (ie students from les Beaux Arts in Paris), and curators have mercifully decided to ban the kind of embarrassments that plagued previous editions (typically : "photoshop paintings" of realistic sirupy candies which have more to do with advertising than art).

ASYAAF 2010
20100728-20100823
Part 1 : July 28 - August 8
Part 2 : August 11 - 23
Sungshin Women's University (College of Fine Arts), 249-1 Dongsan-dong 3-ga, Seongbuk-gu, Seoul, ROK 136-742
Subway Line 4, Sungshin Women's University Station Exit 1
Tel : +82.2.724.6361 to 6367


Seoul Village 2010

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IMPORTANT UPDATE 20100728

I DO NOT recommand the visit this year. To my utmost dismay, this edition of the ASYAAF is an embarrassment : the quality is overwhelmingly low and the few familiar faces didn't save the day. The only artistic note was the ballet of workers painting the walls for the inauguration, hanging from their ropes against Seongbuk-gu skyline.

Shinhotan, Beginning of a new Era - a big MOCA cup for Seoul

A "Shinhotan" is a flare to show the way, what we Frogs call "un eclaireur".

"Shinhotan, Beginning of a new Era" is a relevant name for the exhibition preceding the transformation of the former Defense Security Command (Kimusa) into the Seoul MOCA, the Seoul branch of the National Museum Of Contemporary Art, Korea.

Kimusa was closed late last year and recently hosted ASYAAF 2009, confirming the potential of the site for contemporary art. This time, it's fully exploited, including the roof. "Space Transformation Project" bodes the transformation to come, while "Art Museum Project" showcases Korean contemporary artists from Gwacheon collections (in Kimusa's main building), and "Documentary Project" showcases images of this most controversial place in Korean minds. Overall, 300 works by 58 artists.

It's as much an end as a beginning : this is the last opportunity to visit this very intriguing place before it mutates into something completely different.

You have absolutely no excuse : admission is free.

Shinhotan, Beginning of a new Era - National Museum Of Contemporary Art, Seoul / 신호탄 - 국립현대미술관, 서울관 건립예정지
2009.10.22 - 2009.12.06
165 Sogyeok-dong, Jongno-gu, Seoul, ROK
Tel: +82.2.2188.6000
seoul.moca.go.kr
artmu.moca.go.kr

Seoul Village 2009

ASYAAF 2009

The Chosun Ilbo and the Ministry of Culture, Sports and Tourism 2009 Asian Students and Young Artists Art Festival at the old Defense Security Command building on Samcheong-dong-gil, in front of the Gyeongbokgung's Folk Village.

The building itself is plays a major part in the success of the operation : tiny bare rooms, dark corridors, post-apocalyptic staircases... you feel like you're going from one vault to another, trapped in some kind of a prison where contemporary art ghosts walks free. Along with an army of friendly and helpful green humanoids called SAM (Student Art Managers).

The 2008 edition at Seoul Station was titled "When we first met" and these days, "We Meet The Future". In very deed, you will meet with 777 young talents from Korea, China, India, Indonesia, Japan, Singapore, and Taiwan. Of course, many works still look amateurish... but this definitely beats most galleries from the neighborhood, and more than a few would fare pretty well at the KIAF (coming up this september at the COEX).

I won't tell names of artists I liked because - full disclosure here - I laid a few red dots during my visit. Works are for sale, and at a reasonable price. So you can support young artists not only by admiring their productions in this unique context.


ASYAAF 20092009.07.29 - 08.23
Defense Security Command, Old Building
165 Sogyeok-dong, Jongno-gu, Seoul, ROK
Tel: +82.2.724.5337
asyaaf.chosun.com

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ADDENDUM 20090812

I just came back from the exhibition. I didn't want to miss the second installation : a second set of Korean artists (and some foreigners) is exposed, and it was worth the visit (more emotions... and more red dots - I'm looking forward to meeting with the creators).

KIAF 2008

After China (2002), Japan (2003), Korea (2004), Germany (2005), France (2006), and Spain (2007), the Korea International Art Fair welcomes Switzerland as its star country : 19 galleries, a Swiss Modern Art Exhibition, and a "What You Get Is What You Want" special exhibition for emerging Swiss talents (none of the 9 young artists selected for KIAF Finds Hidden Treasure comes from the guest country).

But KIAF 2009 goes beyond the partnership between the Gallery Association of Korea and Art Galleries Switzerland (AGS) : 20 countries are represented, and 102 of the 218 galleries are foreign. Korea boasts 116 galleries, Europe 65 (Germany 27), Asia 29 (16 from Japan), Americas 7 (USA 5), and Australia 1. Overall, about 1,500 artists and 6,000 works exhibited.

OK. Enough figures. Except maybe the entrance fee : KRW 15,000. Expensive, but the show is worth it.

I was positively impressed by the quality of the selection, much more exciting than what you could find in - say - a FIAC a couple of years ago. Of course, Chinese artists remain quite popular, and Japanese pop art as well (ie Yoshitomo Nara), but there was a definitely European / auteur flavor, and not just because of the guest country. And a refreshing variety.

Pros seemed to be touching wood : in spite of the economic downturn, the contemporary art bubble remains, and this show appears to be a success so let's enjoy it, you never know how things will fare next year...

Korea enjoys a powerful contemporary art ecosystem along the whole chain from creative design schools to wealthy art lovers, galleries hubs across the capital city, Gyeonggi-do and many other regions, regional exhibitions and fairs with an international reach, new landmarks (ie Leeum)... and as the Korean won takes the plunge, foreign buyers can shop at bargain prices.

But offer is exceeding demand, and quantity often comes before quality, the shell before the pearl. Like in Paju : I remember visiting Heyri Art Village in its maiden year, and it looked more like an architectural contest for hipsters than a genuine artistic proposition. Still, Korea has a knack for forcing success in this field.

Like everywhere else, many galleries will fold, though. Or devote more space to their cafes and boutiques to make ends meet. Young talents will face tougher times to reach their publics, but there's still the ASYAAF...

KIAF plays an important role to position the country globally, and this edition surely confirms Korea as a major player. KIAF 2009 will be an interesting test. Unless another art bubble inflates by then, matching 2008 will be difficult. And each exhibitor will be tempted to take little risk. But some may remember that uncertain times tend to spur creativity and the hunger for it.

Seoul Village 2008


KIAF 2008 / Korea International Art Fair
Guest Country-Switzerland
September 19-23, 2008
Pacific Hall and Indian Hall, COEX, World Trade Center
Samsung-dong, Seoul, ROK 135-731

Visitors can also enjoy synergies with Busan Biennale (until november).