Good cop... ee chuseyo

Don't worry. I won't restart my usual rant about the pervasiveness of coffee shops in Seoul (see "Brews and bruises"). This book cafe has something really special.

To get in, you have to leave an I.D. at a police booth, and that's totally normal since you're entering the headquarters of Seoul Metropolitan Police Agency (SMPA). From Gyeongbokgung Station exit 7, you can't miss this hulk of a building topped by an antenna that competes with Namsan Tower at night (picture two giant cuttlefishes exchanging colorful, LED-powered distress messages). The main entrance is on Naejadong-gil (now Sajikro-8-gil), but for the cafe, use the small one on Saemunanro-3-gil, opposite KEB / Kim & Chang.

Likewise, there are two entrances for this book cafe, the 'cafe' part being on the ground floor, and the 'book' one down a large set of stairs. The atmosphere is rather cool, and the proportion of uniforms lower on week-ends.

Now regarding the book section, this is serious stuff, far beyond the usual pseudo-cultural alibi (worn out hip magazines on stylish shelves): you're in an actual library, with rows of neatly sorted volumes. And if 99% of them are in Korean, they cover a wide scope: Korean literature, English literature, French literature (featuring Portuguese authors but we share the same Latin roots anyway)... Bonus, a whole section you won't find in any other library: "경찰" - "Police", complete with corporate news and criminal cases.

Here, anyone can borrow books, up to three per fortnight.

Unfortunately, not all police authorities display this really good cop routine nationwide. And judging by how poorly Suwon Jungbu Police Station's teams handled the abominable abduction/rape case last week, they probably were not encouraged to browse through this kind of literature...



Seogyeong Book Cafe / 서경 북카페 (cafe)
Seoul Metropolitan Police Agency
Sajikro-8-gil 31, Jongno-gu, Seoul, ROK


Seoul Village 2012
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Reconsidering Sejongno Park

After the Eastern side of Sejongno this morning ("Insadong - Bukchon seamless for pedestrians"), some news from the not so far West.

At the intersection between Naejadong-gil* and Sejongno lies a small public park echoing the historical significance of the area, for centuries a cluster of ministries. But Sejongno Park is neither nice nor welcoming, and most visitors are simply on their way in or out the old parking operated underground. I often wonder how Sejongno would look like if it were animated all the way during cultural events, and particularly if this very spot were better designed : here is a very large space, in an ideal location (between Gyeongbokgung, Gwanghwamun Square, and Sejong Cultural Center), but totally wasted.




That could be about to change : the contract with the tenant expires in 2012 and the city intends to revive the area, creating a sunken garden, also history-themed, which (I presume) could be connected to the existing underground walkway across the boulevard, and maybe even to the King Sejong exhibition space inaugurated last year under Gwanghwamun Plaza.

That would make not only perfect sense but confirm the success of the restoration of Seoul's most prestigious axis. Of course, the design had better be right from the start (please not another Haechi Madang, please not another dangerous staircase that visitors discover only a split second before breaking their own necks...).

I reckon authorities will also keep an eye on demonstrators : since Gwanghwamun Square inauguration, small political gatherings have regularly been using the Cultural Center's staircases as a tribune, and this new spot would be almost at the feet of the Central Government Building... Note that further down the boulevard (Taepyeongno will merge with Sejongno), Mayor OH Se-hoon is facing similar threats : the metropolitan assembly, now overwhelmingly progressive, voted in favor of facilitating demonstrations under his very windows on Seoul Plaza.

More animation ahead, then. And many colorful "events" (pronounce "eee-bent").

Seoul Village 2010

* If you're not familiar with Naejadong-gil, that's the street perpendicular to the boulevard, starting between Sejong Cultural Center and the Central Government Building, with a short tunnel connection to the other side of Sejongno (near the US Embassy), and leading to Sajikno in front of Sajik-dan, with Inwangsan in the background. The street progressively evolves from an administrative / office center to a residential hub (Gwanghwamun Space Bon, Gyeonghuigungoe Achim...), with the Seoul Metropolitan Police in the middle and many eateries.

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UPDATE 20110524 - Sejongno Park under renovation
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Sajik-dan enshrined, Naeja-dong revived ?

Scaffolding off, Sajik Park exposes its newly restored wall : the traditional stone, wood, and tile construction protects Sajik-dan more efficiently and elegantly than the awful iron fence that used to welcome visitors to that prestigious shrine, the pendant to Jongmyo West of Gyeongbokgung*.

Now Hongsalmun looks again like a gate and not just an isolated monument. And the rites performed in Sajik-dan move closer to their recognition as a UNESCO World Heritage.

This restoration also paves the way for the great Jongno-gu project to redesign the historic Yulgokno-Sajikno axis. I guess it will include traffic lights with pedestrian crossings somewhere between Medong-gil / Pilundae-gil and Naejadong-gil, as well as (speaking of paving the way) decent sidewalks on both sides of Sajikno along Naeja-dong : removing the overpass was a nice first step, but you get tired of potholes.

The Southern half of Naeja-dong is about to change too, and I hope for the better. A first meeting was held last month between residents and local authorities, generally the initial stage for redevelopment, but new regulations also confirmed the protection of hanoks and this area has quite a few to save. The Western part is occupied by the massive headquarters of Seoul Metropolitan Police and at the other end there's a big officetel (Blois), a church, and a collection of medium-sized buildings. In between, an intricate network of small streets full of hanoks, most of them restaurants, marked by Jangchunggo-gil : the only street cutting fully the block between Sajikno and Naejadong-gil is slightly curvy and hilly, and most houses on the Eastern side are traditional ones, which gives it an interesting charm and potential. I often wonder how it would look if both sides were "rehanokized". It would not only save the existing cluster, but also create a very interesting touristic and gastronomic spot opposite Chebu-dong and on the way to Sajik-dan or Sungok Art Museum.

Furthermore, it would also make sense from an historical point of view : this is precisely the place where all the catering was prepared for festivities at the Gyeonbokgung, between the palace and the shrine celebrating harvests and food.


Seoul Village 2010

* "Inwangsan's Great Wall and Seoul's Royal "T" Time". We already mentioned the restoration of this wall (see "The Sandwich").

see other Seochon related posts, including "Baekundongcheon / Gwanghwamun-gil - A River Runs Through It"

The Sandwich

The Space Bon terrace, where Naejadong-gil meets Sajikno, is getting more crowded.

Starbucks Cafe, the small convenience store, and nearby Cafe Mori have been recently joined by new cafes, snacks and restaurants : seafood (Gorebul), Japanese (Koen), tea (Puer)... and my new "cantine" when I need a tasty burger.

"The Sandwich" prepares burgers, salads, soups and (of course) sandwiches with good ingredients, terrific bread, and original sauces. You'll find East Coast classics (BLT, Philly, submarine, French fries, breakfast...), experience some innovations (ie interesting sauce with salmon sandwich), and even eat healthy and tasty veggies... though I must confess I have a weakness for their chilly burger (to die for).

It's a small place with a small kitchen, and they're often full for lunch. Those in a hurry may prefer to avoid rush hours (12 to 1).

If you manage to get a seat on the terrace (each restaurant seems to be allowed only two outdoor tables), it can be an interesting spot for the summer. The block protects you from the sun for lunch, and a small garden provides some fresh air... with the contribution of the mountain : the view on Inwangsan comes as a bonus, with Sajik Park and Hongsalmun at its feet*, and often spectacular summer skies for sunset.

The Sandwich (restaurant)
Gwanghwamun Space Bon 201-107 B
9 Sajik-dong, Jongno-gu, Seoul, ROK 110-054
Tel: +82.2.720.9396


Seoul Village 2009

* see "Inwangsan's Great Wall". Note that Sajik-dan will be protected by a new traditional wall - old rites are being performed regularly and I suspect authorities to push for a UNESCO heritage listing.

Sabal (Seoul)

The administrative area of Sajik-dong covers West of Sejongno all the way to the fortress (Gyonam-dong on the other side of the hill), and includes 12 smaller neighborhoods or "court dongs"*.

The two "majors" being culture and parks (Gyeonghuigung, Sajik Park, Seoul Museum of History, Sejong Art Center, art galeries, Inwangsan...), and administrations (central government, metropolitan police, offices and officetels...), there is a large offer of restaurants and cafes, all thriving on officeworkers but some batting steady over the average on weekends.

The Gyeonghuigungoe Achim complex stands where Naeja-dong-gil and Jusigyeong-gil meet, across the Seoul Metropolitan Police Headquarters. Its apartment / officetel mix is more residential than Byeoksan Gwanghwamun Sidae or Ssangyeong Platinium (to the East), but less than Space Bon (to the West), so not all its restaurants are deserted on weekends.

"Sabal" and "Market" share the same owners, and both propose an alternative and often innovative take at basics using fresh ingredients : rice for Market and noodles for Sabal.

I have a preference for the latter. Sabal proposes different styles of noodles (janchi guksu - veggies, seafood, gimchi...), with a great variety of tastes and dishes. By "dishes" I mean that not two bowls look the same, which echoes the name of the restaurant (사발 = "bowl").

Rice comes in big portions at Market, so if you want to try both, you'd better go for a massive lunch at Market, and enjoy more refined flavors and a cosier atmosphere for dinner at Sabal.

Sabal / 사발 (restaurant)
Gyeonghuigung Achim ("King's Garden") block #3, 1F (142),
72 beonji, Naesu-dong, Jongno-gu, Seoul, ROK
Tel +82.2.720.4845

Market / 마켓 (restaurant)
same address
Tel +82.2.720.8211

Seoul Village 2008

* see Jongno-gu dongs

see also other restaurants in Seoul and Korea..

Inwangsan's Great Wall and Seoul's Royal "T" Time

Seoul mountains represent a unique feature for a major metropolis. Even from downtown, you can enjoy great daylong walks across picturesque sceneries.

If you think traditional paintings of royal palaces look too stylized to be true, just take a two-hour hike up Mount Inwang (Inwangsan) and along its fortress walls, and enjoy the best view over Seochon, the Gyeongbokgung, Cheong Wa Dae, the city center and Namsan. As you rise, parts of Gangnam and such landmarks as the COEX or the 63 Tower join the party in a memorable panorama.


Let's zoom out for a minute or two. I've been following very closely the dramatic changes under way in the heart of Seoul and particularily around its main axis Sejongno. If you consider the "T" leading to the Gyeongbok Palace, the upper bar doesn't look as nice as it should since both sides lead to ancient royal shrines. But change is coming.

The Eastern part, Yulgokno, can leverage on major assets : the Anguk hub linking two touristic areas (Insadong and Gahoe / Bukchon, both expanding), and soon to be re-connected UNESCO World Heritage twins (see "Jongmyo-Changdeokgung reunited"). Much has already been done and who knows, some day, Seoul city shall also decide to remove the two miserable gas stations guarding the beautiful entrance of the Changdeok Palace...

The Western bar of the "T" draws much fewer tourists, but hides different kind of treasures. Sajikno leads to Seodaemun and Dongnimmun, but both lie on the other side of the Sajik Tunnel. And synergies between Sajik Park and Gyeonghuigung are limited until a much needed Northern entrance to the Gyeonghui Park is opened*...

On the other hand, today's shortest way (cutting through Shinmun-ro 2 Ga - the double street called Gyeonghuigung-gil) is full of art galleries, nice cafes and fine restaurants, and it will drop you at the feet of the Seoul Museum of Art... Speaking of which : Tongui-dong is welcoming a growing number of art galleries and decent eateries. Seochon is not Sogyeok-dong yet, but at last there is some echo this side of the Gyeongbokgung walls...

The past few months have seen dramatic changes along Sajikno. Just last month, a derelict pedestrian overpass connecting both sides of Naeja-dong has been removed, and soon, a crossing shall dramatically shorten the walking distance between Gyeongbokgung Station and Sajik Park... which is itself undergoing a spectacular lifting : exit the giant concrete platform, enter a new gentle slope towards Inwangsan-gil and the mountain.

Marked by Hongsalmun (홍살문), the gate of Sajik-dan (사직단), Sajik Park itself may not look very spectacular right know, but it does hold a special significance (as fundamental as Jongmyo and Gyeongbokgung for the King) and host many cultural events, most notably the traditional rites at Sajik-dan and Ye-dan. The small squares where almost shamanic rites were performed in favor of food and agriculture stretch peacefully without really leaving ground. And neither Hwanghakjeong (archery pavillion) nor Tangun Shrine (devoted to the mythical founder of the nation), both behind the park, open their gates every day to the public.


ALL ALONG THE WATCHTOWER

Just meters away from the shrine, the hulk of Jongno-gu's Cultural and Sports Center can help locate the beginning of the Inwangsan fortress walls. Considering the clearing being prepared just across the street, I guess a more specific building shall welcome hikers and tourists in a not too distant future.

For the moment, the most convenient landmark is this shanty drugstore one block away from the Cultural Center.

Behold, You Who Cometh to Ascend the Great Wall : as I write these lines (this may change soon), this ruin happens to be your last chance to purchase a snack or a bottle of water, and the Center your last opportunity to empty your bladder indoor. On the way up, no facilities can be found except a few trashcans, and a couple of army sentry boxes.

Note that you are entering a formerly restricted area overlooking the Blue House and sensitive bases. The Inwangsan park was closed after the 1968 assassination attempt of Park Chung-hee by a North Korean commando, and reopened in 1993. Taking pictures of Cheong Wa Dae, littering the place, or firing a missile on the Government's HQ are stricly forbidden.

The first portion of the ascension remains a civilian area, and is turning into a pleasant neighborhood park, with a small wooden platform overlooking the city. Here, the XVth century wall separates Sajik-dong from Muak-dong. It goes all the way up to the summit, and its restoration is now almost completed ; higher up, you can see a temporary rail running along it, probably to carry the heavy concrete stones.

This part was restored earlier, and the Gu is now focusing on making the place an ideal place for families to rest or picnic. Gardeners are cleaning the bushes, planting new trees, and removing most weeds or detritus. Unfortunately, the authorities, felt compelled to add the usual gym equipments, and I'm afraid I know where they plan to install them : the small wooden platform may become a large concrete terrace, ruining the charm of one of the cutest spots.

These days all trees are blooming, and later in the year, you can pick apricots while strolling. But March-April has its advantages, particularily since the view isn't blocked by vegetation.

I was surprised to see many families with very young children go all the way up, which includes a vertiginous walk on a rock at the top, and the second section of the ascension, marked by a grilled gate leading to a narrow and steep staircase (the only unpleasant part of the journey, and it doesn't last long).

The third section leads to the granite top of the hill, along the serpentine wall and a not too demanding slope. To the left, the view improves from apartment buildings to Inwangsa, and then to a pine forest. To the right, Bukhansan's majesty becomes clearer as the vegetation grows thicker. Behind you, Seoul keeps revealing itself step by step.

From the rock, next to an army barack, you can see Gangnam even behind Namsan (274.5 m high, compared to 338.2 for Inwangsan). This is the intersection of Muak-dong to the South, Hongje-4-dong to the West and Nusang-dong to the East. It could be the perfect spot to finish the ascension but then, just on the other side of the rock, you discover the fourth section : a welcoming clear path leading to the round dome of Bukhansan.

The beauty of this hike that at each station, you can either enjoy the view and call it a beautiful day, or venture one step beyond.

Seoul Village

* the Southern flank of the park is getting ready for Gyonam New Town : the block of small restaurants separating the Gangbuk Samsung Hospital and the Gyeonghuigung entrance will be replaced by a public garden, which has already been partly opened along the newly restored wall.