Seongdong v. Seongdong

The race for Seoul mayor got a bit tighter lately: longtime Seongdong-gu mayor JUNG Won-oh seemed to be cruising towards an easy victory, but longtime incumbent OH Se-hoon is now within striking distance.

If JUNG's DPK and OH's PPP have become caricature parties in a deeply divided nation, the two leading candidates are not that radically opposed, and not just because OH was born in Seongdong-gu*. Both have had their share of controversies during their long tenures**, both are more pragmatists than populists, both have implemented policies that could have come from across the aisle, both have increased their territory's global attractiveness (Seoul back in the game and for the first time among the World's top 10 startup hubs, Seongsu-dong a magnet for influencers), and both pledge to build more dwellings to meet the demand from low income citizens.

Nevermind those decreasing populations in Seoul and Korea, and forget about making existing homes more affordable... build and they will come. Yes, their programs differ significantly (big, tall, top-down projects for OH, 'chak chak', district-level affairs for JUNG), but you can expect more concrete after this epic, vegetal-free 'Garden of Gratitude' erected on Gwanghwamun Square to honor Korean war veterans. 

Seoul's new Garden of Gratitude

 

One garden of gratitude for Seoul? One fortress of solitude for the winner? One hundred years of solitude for the loser?  

JUNG Won-oh - OH Se-hoon

Whoever wins, we'll keep an eye on him, for better or for worse.

Seongsu me.

 --- UPDATE 20260609 ---

OH Se-hoon eventually won by a slim margin, but another troubling scandal plagued the National Election Commission, who obviously caused a printed ballot shortage in key polling stations where OH was bound to score high. Like in 2022, a major crisis was avoided by the final outcome, apologies were issued, and the SNAFU fueled K-MAGA's 'stop the steal' conspiracy theories. But this time, Foreign media (including the FT) seem to be paying more attention to the ruling party's controversial reforms undermining separation of powers, particularly around justice.

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*  the only Seoul mayor to be born in the capital city BTW. JUNG was born in Jeollanam-do (Yeosu)

** or even before when it comes to JUNG, still haunted by a 1995 incident involving the assault of police force 

A silver lining over Seoul mountains

Seoul is rediscovering its streams and that's a wonderful thing. If only it did more to protect its beautiful mountains...

Few cities can boast such assets. They play a considerable role in Seoul's regulation from visual as well as environmental or cultural points of view. Granted, they create lots of congested bottlenecks, but they also provide fresh air you cannot find anywhere else, and give to the city its unique skyline. Skylines and landmarks do not necessarily consist of skyscrapers, remember ?

Mountains are a defining feature in Seoul's identity. The city should protect them and particularily their elevated forests, lungs of great esthetic value and key to Seoul's differenciation from other Capitals.

From where I'm writing, I enjoy everyday beautiful sunrises and sunsets on natural elevations, but still, bits of blocks of "appateus" spoil the view, emerging from behind the fortress.

Now most elevation points are artificial. Twenty years ago, every little hill had already its red neon cross at its top but at least, you could tell the shape of the land under the buildings. In too many parts of the city, I saw charming hills flattened, mountain tops chainsaw-massacred, forests of wood replaced by forests of concrete... This frenzy goes much too far beyond the normal "domestication" of a rather challenging landscape.

Natural mountain should be protected as natural treasures, and they are priceless for a city that intends to become an international touristic hub. No construction should be allowed beyond a certain point, and many atrocities should be removed. It was done on Namsan**, but less prestigious elevations are of the same importance for Seoulites.

I'm pleased to notice that recent real estate projects involving towers at mountain tops were turned down, the city recommending low rise constructions. This was only in order to enhance the visibility of the city fortress, and it won't deter all speculators (luxury positioning will further exclude former inhabitants), but that's a positive start.

Over the past few months, a few regulations brought some hope for the future :
- dividing a lot will not necessarily multiply the number of rights owners : this easy way of gaining a status of former resident will disappear, seriously curbing speculation
- associations of owners pooling for a redevelopment will have to be approved by the city : we may no more see competition between rival factions, and transparency should gain (some) ground over corruption
- obligation of devoting a significant proportion of low rise villa areas to public gardens : Seoul is literally suffocating in large areas completely covered with such compact buildings
- protection of certain areas with a high proportion of hanoks (traditional houses) : this stopped a few projects, like in Gahoe-dong
- ...

Prices did go down last year, as a combination of the worldwide crisis and measures taken by late President ROH Moo-hyun. But the bulk of the housing bubble remains, and its expansion seems to be even resuming.

As the housing market almost stalled last winter, President LEE Myung-bak tried to revive it by loosening regulations : reducting vital green belts, allowing higher constructions, lower proportion of green spaces... But now and at last, he seems to understand the necessity of cooling it down and prevent a massive and brutal collapse. During his mandate only, of course : it seems a little bit too late now. You cannot find any place in Seoul unspoiled by new town or renovation speculation fueled under his tenure.

As a Seoul Mayor, LEE did initiate some major projects with overall positive environmental impacts (Cheonggyecheon, Seoul Forest, bus corridors...), but he also unleashed too many private developments with tragic and long-lasting consequences.

Mayor OH Se-hoon doesn't have as many opportunities to shine as his predecessor, but he seems to follow a more impressionist path, multiplying small local projects, bringing change at a more human level.

Seoul is breathing a little bit better when overpasses are removed or about to be removed (ie Hyehwa-dong Rotary, Hoehyeon-dong Sagori, Seodaemun Station...), when car lanes are replaced by tree and bike lanes plus wider sidewalks (ie Bongcheon-ro in Gwanak-gu), when kids can play and cool down in water spring fountains everywhere, even if they can't afford overcrowded pools (which I dub "Salamtang").

Yes, water spring fountains are not necessarily environmental friendly (what to say about the latest Banpo Bridge extravaganza !).

Yes, sometimes the "Wellbeing" fad goes grotesque (ie these days : miniature rice paddies frying in their flower pots in front of Gyeongbokgung).

Yes, building a "green park" often deviates into replacing big old trees with pine trees that don't pump much CO², covering large patches of soil with a concrete plaza and disgracious metal sculptures.

But that's the way Seoul breathes, embracing change at an amazing pace, redoing things before they are even completed. And we've been waiting for this positive if clumsy trend for too long.

Let's hope that in the process, collateral damage will not prove too great and irreversible.


* a pair of old green appartments for foreigners was destroyed. Too bad they turned the tower in a color-shifting squid (the new and improved N-Tower should be called the 오징어 Tower).

Chuck Close at Sungkok Art Museum

The Sungkok Architectural Garden used to have a lovely view on the Gyeongbokgung and Cheonghwadae, but it is now blocked by the Gyeonghuigungoe Achim and Space Bon complexes.
Whatever. The spot remains a cool and peaceful place to enjoy a drink and browse an exhibition.

These days, the museum is hosting the 12th stop of the Chuck Close tour*. The craftsman's work is a tale of patience and organization, and to me, this highly collaborative dimension is the main reason why Close should not be considered an autist (his speech and choice of subjects beyond himself coming distant second and third).

There is something almost Stanley Kubrikish about his obsession for processes and tools, to the risk of producing something vaguely passé. But I feel much more comfortable with a "Dr Strangelove" and a "Barry Lyndon" on my shelves rather than with a Close up my wall.


* "Chuck Close Prints - Process and collaboration" (from 20080619 to 20080928)
Sungkok Art Museum - Shinmunro-2-ga, Jongno-gu, Seoul, ROK - Tel +82.2.737.7650