Dunnae Minsokchon (Dunnae)

Don't be deterred by the name and decor of this restaurant : if "Dunnae Folk Village" is abusively covered with traditional and wooden artifacts, their food is the real stuff : not make-believe junk, but simple country food with an intense and unique taste. The kind of meals that deserve a trip if you really love Korean food, and like to discover new / old tastes.

Definitely the perfect stop after a morning in Gangwon-do forests and fields, enjoying their autumn best : even a few hours after eating about one and a half Korean cow (hanu) in every possible ways, I felt positively ravenous.

Still now, one day later, I'm drooling just remembering a few dishes :

- side dishes (banchan / 반찬) featuring mountain herbs (san namul / 산나물)

- Deodeok gui (더덕구이) : grilled deodok. Deodeok (도덕) is a variety of bellflower (codonopsis lanceolata) similar to toraji. Fibers seem softer.

- Taegisan Dodeok Sundae (태기산 더덕순대) : intestine / blood sausage with dodeok from nearby Taegi mountain.

- chondubu (촌두부) : a fantastic "village tofu / dubu" - You can have it with soy sauce or gimchi, but I liked it best as it came : in a very light warm broth, probably plain water with a touch of cereal, giving a slightly smoky flavor.

- namul doenjang jjigae (나물 된장찌게) : since I'm used to the best homemade doenjang, I'm difficult to move for this classic. This one is really ok.

- dondeure namulbab (돈드레 나물밥) : healthy rice and herbs bibim with doenjang sauce

- biji jjigae (비지찌개) : no meat, and an incredible taste. It reminded me of the feeling I have when I savor my favorite rich bread soup in the deep Perigord Noir (the one you finish with red wine before attacking the confit de canard pommes sarladaises... if you still have room left after the foie gras).

- ... I'm probably missing one or two steps there but that's part of the game.

Seoul Village 2009

Dunnae Minsokchon / 돈내 민속촌 (restaurant)
Gangwon-do, Hoengseong-gun, Dunnae-myeon, Dunnae, ROK
From the market, the street along the stream right before the bridge. About half a mile after the school.
Tel : +82.33.342.7807.5949

PS: thank you Mr Bae, from Byeolmuri pension, for the address.