Bob Dylan knock knock knockin' on Seoul's door

Tired of K-pop ? Longing for the times when pop music used to mean something, when lyrics used to mean something ?

No one can tell today how Robert Allen Zimmerman will perform on that one night in Songpa-gu*, but you're more likely to hear an intriguing version of a great classic than to see sexy dances, and not just because the man will turn 70 next year : Bob Dylan was simply not that kind of teenage wonder (he was over 20 when he released his first single anyway).

OK. 68, talking about a slow train coming... and just for one night in Korea, compared to twelve in Japan... but that's a first. Eleven days earlier, Jeff Beck will haunt the same spot**, and it tells a lot about changes that have a'comed to Korea in matters of musical tastes (among others : world class connoisseurs abound in any field - arts, food, wine...).

OK. Bob Dylan is also an institution, and the concert tells also a lot about the power of Korean entertainment industry. But Seoul Fringe Festival has been around since 1998 and last July, two indie festivals were competing against each other (Jisan Valley Ski Resort in Icheon taking a shot at established Pentaport Rock Festival in Incheon). And if Whitney Houston "paid" a visit earlier this month, groups like Muse are enjoying gigs here.

So enjoy this rare moment.

Seoul Village 2010

* Dylan : March 31st - Olympic Gymnastics Arena, Olympic Park (organizers : Access Entertainment).
*** Beck : March 20th - Olympic Gymnastics Arena, Olympic Park (organizers : Private Curve, Dream Factory Club)

Seoul Fringe Festival

Indy Seoul generally meets at Hongdae. Less "theatrical" than Daehangno, less "cute" than Idae, this university area is less prone to follow trends than to shape them. Students like to design their own look from head to toes, without going too far : it shouldn't appear too staged.

Some do their own art, some their own music, and sometimes that music can become art.

That's where the Seoul Fringe Festival steps in. For its 12th edition, it decided to extend pervasively with the complicity of performers, and I would say this BYOV (Bring Your Own Venue) concept refreshes parts other festivals cannot reach.

Any material can be recycled, and the party will mix with Seoul Open Night on Saturday the 22nd.

Seoul Fringe Festival 2009
From August 13th to 29th
Telephone: +82.02.325.8150
website: seoulfringefestival.net (full program and map of events)

Seoul Village 2009

Seoul Open Night

Imagine Paris experiencing at the same time its Nuit Blanche, Paris Plage, and the Fête de la Musique. That would be Seoul this Saturday, August 22nd :

- "Seoul Plage" (1st edition) is a private and rather feeble attempt to copy the Parisian event (itself a copy of a concept created by the city of Saint Quentin) on one segment of Hangang riverside. So let's forget about it.

- The "Fête de la Musique" would be the Seoul Fringe Festival (12th edition, until August 29th). I'll get back to that later.

- And the equivalent to "Nuit Blanche" is "Seoul Open Night". The said "night" doesn't stretch as far as it does in Paris but it starts at 2 pm and, for the second edition, its limits have been pushed from 10 pm to midnight, which makes the label much more relevant... The concept is basically the same : the city opens its museums and galleries during one special night when many cultural events take place, casting a new light on an art capital.

To go from one Seoul Open Night spot to another, I won't be riding a Seoul Velib', but my own Korean bike.

Seoul Open Night will last from 2 pm to 12 pm on Saturday the 22nd, 2009 across 6 locations, but the program may change due to yesterday's tragic news : following Kim Dae-jung's death, the general mood is not set on partying mode...

Here are a few of the many events initially planned * :

- Seoul Plaza : free "opening" ceremony between 7 and 8 pm featuring Major OH Se-hoon and singer LEE Seung-hwan. I guess that would be the place to pay a formal tribute to DJ (I'm not talking about the Disk Jockey).

- Hongdae : Seoul Open Night will spice up the Seoul Fringe Festival, a free market will be held at the usual spot (Hongdae Playground) between 7 and 12 pm, street performances, indie concerts... A KRW 10,000 Unlimited Cultural Pass includes entrance to 12 live clubs and theaters.

- Daehangno : the usual hotspots, and a free concert at Marronnier Park (8 to 9 pm).

- Jeong-dong : various events around the Deoksugung (concert) and along Deoksugung-gil (including meetings with Nanta performers). All key museums and parks will be opened until midnight.

- Bukchon : most galleries open until midnight free of charge (there's a 10,000 Cultural Pass including admission to 12 paid museums and galleries in the area). At Jaedong Elementary School crossroad, a Bukchon Traditional Street Performance and Food Feast will be held between 7 and 11 pm.

- Insa-dong : most galleries open until midnight free of charge, many performances are held, and Ssamziegil visitors can enjoy a free traditional craftwork training.

Not all events are free, and some even require bookings (ie architectural tours highlighting key city landmarks). So check the program of Seoul Open Night on Seoul city website or directly on the SON website (cafe.naver.com/seoulopennight).

Seoul Village 2009