South of the Cheonggyecheon and a few blocks East of Dongdaemun, Hwanghak-dong is mutating.
The flea market has been vaporized (or rather Fly-Toxed - I saw troops of thugs paid by the developpers charge the last die harders a couple of years ago), some aseptized remnants transfered near Dongmyo, and a tragic permanent fair of cheap imports set up in Dongdaemun Stadium (on the death row as well).
The Sindang food market lost its charm after the "restoration" of the streamlet. Last time I passed by The Lotte Castle it was almost completed. I was walking all the way from Majang-dong to Euljiro, along the new and improved Cheonggyecheon. At night, the working site wasn't lit at all, and this dark, massive hulk stood over me like a titanic drawing by Philippe Druillet. Not exactly the kind of castles you see while kayaking on Dordogne river...
20070621 (photo "Somewhere under the rainbow" - copyright Stephane MOT 2002)
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