SeMA's saemaeuldeul

SeMA's latest branch was inaugurated on March 12 in Siheung-dong, Geumcheon-gu. Between an elementary school, big apateu blocks, the huge district office and its namesake subway station, this long, low rise structure designed by KIM Chan-joong sits in a small park and dons a headband reflecting light like a screen, probably an echo to its dedication to new media art.

The new ship is docked to its neighborhood through an anchor outdoor installation (Yaloo's Shininho Landing), and an inaugural exhibition ('Mneme topos') honoring its own construction. Nothing revolutionary or pretentious; visitors are even entertained with fun signage from the parking lot to various outdoor spots. The idea seems to make families and newbies comfortable, contemporary art accessible to everyone. 

Seo-Seoul Museum of Art fills a cultural gap in southwest Seoul, and somehow combines Siheung-dong's nature dimension with Doksan-dong's industrial culture. Going to Geumnarae Central Park with the kids or to the district office for some administrative stuff? You can seize the opportunity and take a short cultural break. 

#SeoSeoulMuseumofArt in #Geumcheongu, #Seoul.#culture #architecture pic.twitter.com/DsmrQsiSbu

— Seoul Village 🇺🇦 (@theseoulvillage) April 24, 2026

Previously, SeMA only had one site south of the Hangang, in Gwanak-gu: the Nam-Seoul Museum of Art inaugurated in September 2004 in the former Belgian Consulate building relocated to Namhyeon-dong 21 years earlier.

Before Seo-Seoul, SeMA's last inauguration (in May 2025) was at the diagonal opposite in Chang-dong, Dobong-gu. A sliced dark cube - or should I say a camera obscura? - The Photography Seoul Museum of Art is a more daunting beast, with an edgier inaugural program featuring familiar names, but also experimental artists I'd never knew graced the Park Chung-hee era.

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As it opens, step by step, new Seoul villages to art, SeMA welcomes as always visitors for free. In case you missed any, here are the other venues:

• Seosomun Main Building: SeMA's Main Branch is located in Seosomun-dong, Jung-gu, in the original Supreme Court (built in 1928). Inaugurated in 1988, it moved in 2002 from Sinmunno-2-ga, Jongno-gu, within Gyeonghuigung grounds (now the site of the Seoul Museum of History).
  
  
• Buk-Seoul Museum of Art: inaugurated in September 2013 in Junggye-dong, Nowon-gu, SeMA's second biggest branch filled a regional void and often proposes interesting exhibitions
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
• Also:
• Archives, Seoul Museum of Art (inaugurated in April 2023 on the main axis of Pyeongchang-dong, Jongno-gu).
•  SeMA Storage (inaugurated in 2016 in the former Innovation Park in Nokbeon-dong, Eunpyeong-gu )
• SeMA Bunker (inaugurated in October 2017 under the Yeouido park and former runway - in Yeouido-dong, Yeongdeungpo-gu)
• Nanji Residency SeMA  (in Sangam-dong, Mapo-gu)
• Paik Ground (formerly Nam Jun Paik memorial house, inaugurated on March 10, 2017 in Changsin-dong, Jeongno-gu)

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Nine new museums in Seoul by 2023

Last Sunday*, Seoul announced nine new museums for the 3 years to come, after inaugurating five others over the past three years. As this map shows, downtown's dominance in cultural sites shall grow even stronger, but a few underserved neighborhoods will get their fair share:

The 5 museums inaugurated between 2017 and 2019 (NB this list doesn't count infrastructures that are not managed by the city, like the Seoul HOUR opened last year**:

• 2017: PAIK Nam June Memorial Museum (Changsin-dong, Jongno-gu)
  
• 2018: Donuimun Museum Village (Sinmunno 2-ga, Jongno-gu)
• 2018: Iumpium Sewing History Museum (Changsin-dong, Jongno-gu)
• 2019: Seoul Urban Life Museum (Gongneung-dong, Nowon-gu)
• 2019: Seoul Museum of Korean Folk Music (Waryong-dong, Jongno-gu)

The 9 museums to be inaugurated by 2023:

• 2020: Seoul Craft Museum (Anguk-dong, Jongno-gu): on the site of the former Pungmun Girls' High School. BTW ICYMI Korean Air is suing Seoul Metropolitan Government for torpedoing their plan to sell their Songheyon-dong site (see "twitter.com/theseoulvillage/status/1272327309865828353")
   
• 2021: Hanyangdoseong Ruins Exhibition Hall / Hanyang City Wall Relics (Hoehyeon-dong, Jung-gu). To replace the Seoul City Wall Museum located in Jongno-6-ga. Of course, 'Hanyang' is more relevant as the original name of Seoul intra muros (within Sadaemun).
   
• 2021: Pyeongchang-dong Art and Culture Complex (Pyeongchang-dong, Jongno-gu): a hub for Pyeongchang-dong's Community Art Platform, on Pyeongchangdongmunhwa-ro, with a focus on contemporary art of course.  
• 2022: Korean Food Culture Complex (Seongbuk-dong, Seongbuk-gu) on a redesigned and partly repurposed Samcheonggak.
   
• 2023: Seoul Cultural Resource Center / Integrated Storage (Dugok-ri, Ucheon-myeon, Hoengseong-gun, Gangwon-do): over 44,600 square meters... which speaks volumes about the capital's overflowing cultural assets (350,000 of them shall be stored there).  
• 2023: Robot Science Museum (Chang-dong, Dobong-gu): beyond robots, shall explore A.I., V.R., and other technologies. At last some content for the Chang-dong - Sanggye urban regeneration cluster (see "Diagonal crossings, High Lines, and Business Verticals (how pedestrians and businesses remodel Seoul... and vice-versa)")... but this Seoul village will also host the best new museum to come (see below).
   
• 2023: Pungnap-dong Earthen Fortification Museum (Pungnap-dong, Songpa-gu): 5,500 square meters focused on the old Baekjae castle, and the royal way of life.
   
  
• 2023: Seo-Seoul Museum of Art (Doksan-dong, Geumcheon-gu): not to be confused with SeMA's main site in Seosomun-dong, this branch will reach yet another underserved district after Nam-Seoul (Namhyeon-dong, Gwanak-gu), Buk-Seoul (Junggye-dong, Nowon-gu), or SeMA Storage (Seoul Innovation Park, Nokbeon-dong, Eunpyeong-gu). SeMA also manages the above mentioned Paik Nam June Memorial Museum in Jongno-gu, SeMA Bunker (Yeouido-dong, Yeongdeungpo-gu) SeMA Nanji Residency (Sangam-dong, Mapo-gu).
   
  
• 2023: Seoul Photographic Art Museum (also in Chang-dong, Dobong-gu): not to be confused with the existing private museum of photography in Bangi-dong, Songpa-gu. 2,500 sqm is not very big, but I really hope this will be the museum I've been calling for for years: devoting big sections to my beloved KIM Ki-chan and to the fantastic collections inherited by the Seoul Museum of History, interactive, involving citizen contributions...

Melike Altinisik Architects' winning project for Robot Science Museum

As you can see, quantity doesn't always mean quality, but I'm looking forward to returning to neighborhoods I haven't roamed in a while... and I really can't wait to see that last one. Please, don't disappoint me!

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* see "사진·한식·로봇…서울시 '테마형 뮤지엄' 9개소 개관" (Seoul Metropolitan Government 20200622)
** see "Seoul Hall of Urbanism and Architecture, Seoul Biennale 2019 Symposium"

Jeong-dong forever

Thank you Chosun Ilbo for feeding this stroll-starved quarantined Seoulite with Jeong-dong news ("서울 貞洞이 확 바뀐다, 근대역사 숨쉬는 거리로" - Chosun Ilbo 20200407). So. Seoul intends to invest KRW 20 bn by 2022 into what is already one of the capital's most walkable neighborhoods. Basically, a lot of storytelling to connect the dots, plus a few new dots. 

Sidewalks and signs shall be improved along the 2,6 km scenic walk signaled on this map

But first, let me tell you another story about this neighborhood you think you know.

Jeong-dong basically draws a diagonal between two palaces: Deoksugung and Gyeonghuigung, and owes its name to Jeongneung, a royal tomb of the Joseon dynasty. Actually, it used to be also known as Jeongneung-dong.

Wait a minute. Indeed, Jeongneung is located in Jeongneung-dong, but that's in Seongbuk-gu, quite far away.

Blame King Sejong's father for that: King Taejeong was the one who, in 1408, moved the tomb to the opposite end of town, and even beyond the mountain, the city, and its fortress walls. Real estate-wise and  feng shui-wise, quite a downgrade. Why would Taejeong disgrace a royal tomb? Because it honored Queen Sindeok, the second wife of his grand dad, King Taejo, the founder of both the Josson dynasty and Seoul. And Taejeong's grandmother was Taejo's first wife, Queen Shinui. So even if Sindeok played a role in the capital's genesis, she had to get out of royal sight.

Now guess where Jeongneung was located, initially: in Today's British Embassy.

To me, this anecdote illustrates perfectly Jeong-dong's shift from its royal origins to its modern diplomatic tradition.

Of course, this is where Germany, Russia, the US, the UK, France, Italy, Belgium built their consulates at the end of the XIXth century. But if the Brits are still there (see 'Seoul-upon-Han and Yeongguk-dong'), and even if the Russian Legation tower was restored a dozen years ago, most of the rest is gone.

Seoul city intends to revamp Jeongdong Park, at the feet of the Russian Legation to have it themed after the area's rich diplomatic tradition, with a tribute to these lost buildings. Will more people come than today? For the moment, this quiet green patch remains backstage from Jeongdong-gil as well as from Saemunan-ro (accessible through a steep staircase). And Jeongdong-gil itself is already a pleasant, tree-lined stroll dotted with actual buildings full of history or culture: Jeongdong Theater, Sina Memorial Hall (Asiance HQs), Chung Dong First Methodist Church, surviving structures of Ewha Hakdang and Pai Chai Hakdang (Appenzeller Noble Memorial Museum), Jungmyeongjeon Hall...

What always struck me when I saw old pictures of Jeong-dong was the fact that it looked much hillier than today, and now I know why: there was indeed a hill, named after Hwangtohyeon, but it was erased during the occupation. Among the few new dots added to the plan, Seoul will create a small Hwangtohyeon square to commemorate a hill in front of the small police station at the Sejongno intersection.

Most citizens discovered this most central neighborhood when Deoksugung-gil was redesigned in 1998, marking the revival of downtown Seoul as a pedestrian friendly destination*. Another boost came with the 2002 World Cup, when millions gathered right next door on Sejongdaero around City Hall, and what would become the new Seoul Plaza. The SeMA, inaugurated in 1988, would also be renovated in 2002, and its garden at the roundabout remains a popular, Instagrammable spot. 2002 also happens to be the birth year of my beloved Seoul Museum of History at the other end of the neighborhood. More recently, the Seoul Biennales brought new magnets on each side of Jeong-dong: Donuimun Museum Village near Gyeonghuigung (2007), and Seoul HOUR (2019) near Deoksugung.

Of course there's much more than this SE-NW diagonal**. But until a few years ago, the Northeast section of Deoksugung-gil used to be closed to the public around Habib House, the US Ambassador's residence. Thanks to Mark Lippert and Grigsby his basset hound, this key axis opened up, completing at last Jeong-dong's anchoring to all neighboring areas.

Jeong-dong will remain future-proof if it keeps at the same time respecting its past and evolving.

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* see "Jeongdong-kill"

** Note that its Southeastern half used to be known as Sojeong-dong (close to the 'somun' - Seodomun), and its Northwestern half as Daejeong-dong (close to 'daemun' - Donuimun). About Seoul's Sadaemun and Sasomun, see my small video 'Drawing Sadaemun'

Jeongdong-kill

Today, Korea Joongang Daily published more details on the "logic" behind the revolting U-turn made by Seoul and Jung-gu on what used to be a model urban improvement; the district decided to let tourist buses destroy the once scenic Jeongdong-gil:

"Asphalt mars palace walkway's scenic charm" (Korea Joongang Daily 20131127)

Seoul gives in to tourist buses, covers Jeongdong-gil with asphalt. Buses should have been banned instead twitter.com/theseoulvillage/status/405471457003585536

Jeongdong-gil is the street crossing Jeong-dong between Sejongdae-ro and Saemunan-ro, or rather between Deoksugung and Donuimun - a neighborhood also very rich in history for foreign communities. 

The winding stretch along the palace walls accomodates only one narrow lane that leads to a small roundabout (Seoul Museum of Art's main branch, Jeongdong Cheil Church, path to the US Embassy's residence). The second leg goes both ways, and hosts among other theaters Nanta, a major venue. In the morning and in the evening, sessions often collide with drop-off / pick-up times for the local girls schools, most notably Ewha, provoking maddening traffic jams. On exam days, the video game reaches a new level, with herds of zombie girls crossing the street, their eyes glued to worn out textbooks.

And I'm not even counting the police buses lined in front of the palace: over the past few years, Daehanmun has become a demonstration hotspot, culminating in the Ssangyong Motors saga (200 cops guarding every night a few square meters to prevent further occupation).

Nanta is not even 100 m away from Saemunan-ro, the maximum one has to walk from either end of Jeongdong-gil is 450 m, and this is one of the most pleasant walks in the city.

From the start, buses should have been banned from this street and this roundabout, but you sometimes see six to ten of those waiting for their shows to end. Even before the latest changes made to the street (street stones removed, driveway widened by 50 cm), they already killed Jeongdong by their sole presence.

Jeongdong-gil rehabilitation in 1998 followed the destruction of the Japanese Government-General Building (1995-96), and preceded other spectacular changes in downtown Seoul (Insadong 2000, Seoul Plaza 2004, Cheonggyecheon 2005, Gwanghwamun Square 2009, Gwanghwamun 2010...). Each revival had marked a triumph of urbanism and pedestrians over the Car Almighty that had disgraced the capital over the XXth century... and now this.

Exposing an embarrassing lack of vision, Jung-gu and Seoul have surrendered to the tourist industry by destroying an acclaimed touristic asset instead of working on solutions that are sustainable for both.

I've already insisted on the importance of addressing bus issues in a city that's still not used to coping with millions of tourists. Some efforts have been made, for instance to prevent buses from running their engines when they're parked (generally for heating / cooling purposes), but little to alleviate traffic and to deal with growing lines.

Simply put: no tourist bus should be allowed to park outside of bus-only parking spaces, and instead of multiplying those downtown, more discreet (and preferably underground) lots should be created at a reasonable distance of the main tourist hubs. 

And since, as we speak, all buses come from South Korea (unlike in Paris, for instance, where the DMZ has little effect to block foreign fleets), they can all be equipped with tracking devices to monitor the traffic and control abuses. Typically, no tourist bus should be allowed in Seoul and particularly within "Sadaemun" (historic center) without a proper system.


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MOCA goes MMCA - Museum of Modern and Contemporary Art

Today, the National Museum of Contemporary Art, Korea (MOCA) unveiled its new Museum Identity as the National Museum of Modern and Contemporary Art, Korea (MMCA).

 

If you don't know the old logo, it's in a rather classic, institutional gold, and in capital letters. A litle bit like the chaebol logos from the 80s-90s:

 

 

The new and improved MMCA still looks familiar, and not just because you can almost read "MOMA" if you don't pay much attention. But the color version seems definitely lighter and more consistent than the black and white version, where the logo comes straight from the 70s (it would probably give a different impression if the white logo were, for instance, on a more simple black geometric figure):

 

Anyway... the MOCA had already rebranded its three branches:

• MMCA Gwacheon: the main building (near Seoul Grand Park) was inaugurated in 1986, but the institution itself was established in 1969 in Gyeongbokgung, and moved a first time to Deoksugung, in 1973.
• MMCA Deoksugung: the MOCA returned to Seokjojeon, where the focus is on modern art (museum collections, international exhibitions like the recent "Memory of landscape I have never seen", featuring collections from the National Gallery in Prague). Just hectometers away from SeMA Seosomun, via Jeong-dong-gil.
• MMCA Seoul: the new Sogyeok-dong branch will be inaugurated in November this year, and the MMCA regularly posts pictures of the new structures. Many of the fences have already been removed, so everybody can see the former Defense Security Command and Military Hospital emerge in new clothes and surroundings. I'm glad they dumped the "UUL National Art Museum" brand, which sounded like "melencholy" in Korean. About this saga, see former posts, particularly "ASYAAF 2009" (July 2009), "Shinhotan, Beginning of a new Era - a big MOCA cup for Seoul" (October 2009), "MOCA @ Defense Security Command, continued" (February 2010), "SeMA to block blockbusters" (February 2012).

MOCA Seoul in Sogyeok-dong, facing Gyeongbokgung

I can't wait to visit the new museum and its collections this November. Two other exhibitions are planned for the inauguration: "The Birth of a Museum: MMCA, Seoul Archive Project", and a "On-site Production and Installation Project" featuring SEO Do-ho, CHOE U-ram, and Young-Hae Chang Heavy Industries.

Speaking of Young-Hae Chang Heavy Industries and text designs... I wonder if MMCA will dare display in the former Defense Security Command this work called "Cunnilingus in North Korea" (watch the whole video: yhchang.com/CUNNILINGUS_IN_NORTH_KOREA.html)

THAT would be quite a shift from the 70s for this building!

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SeMA Nowon: better than Gauguin

Never say never again: one year ago, the Seoul Museum of Art announced that it would distance itself from big shows with big international names (see "SeMA to block blockbusters"), but 2012 ended with the Tim Burton extravaganza (talk about big fish), and yesterday*, The  Korea JoongAng Daily detailed SeMA's plans for the year to come, starring a major Paul Gauguin exhibition to be held June-September 2013 in Seosomun branch (talk about a summer blockbuster).

It's great, particularly for a large public who never had the occasion to see really significant works from an artist I love, but I was much more interested in updates regarding the future SeMA North Branch in Nowon-gu.

I always wondered what would come out of this site, still hidden by tall fences last time I passed by, last month. That's a very good location, between Junggye and Hagye stations, surrounded by massive apartment blocks and just in front of a key commercial hotspot: Outlet 2001 +, HomePlus (formerly HomEver, formerly Carrefour Junggye), the second one after Nowon Station, on the other side of Danghyeoncheon. Perfect to reach for new visitors, and to boost Northeast Seoul's cultural life. 

SeMA North Branch (SeMA Nowon? SeMA Junggye?) will be inaugurated in July 2013, and officials quoted in the article mentioned "crafts, design, and architecture" and "public art" as the main "verticals" for the new venue. We also received the confirmation that the Main Branch (SeMA Seosomun) would propose more international magnets. It is very important to couple each event with a more local one: I sincerely hope many visitors to the Tim Burton show stopped by the wonderful exhition of Seoul pictures on the ground floor (see "A thousand villages, a thousand memories - Seoul Photo Festival 2012"). Bonus: that expo was free. But of course, that's not the reason why I visited the Seoul photo festival expo three times, sharing twice very emotional moments with fellow visitors I'd never met before, but who had personal stories with certain pictures or photographers.

The potential repositioning of SeMA Nam Seoul (South Branch, near Sadang) is not very clear, but I guess the editorial line will remain focused on more intimate exhibitions.

What about SeMA Gyeonghuigung, that big space in the most prestigious of all locations, but an empty shell most of the time?

My dream would be a SeMA KIM Ki-chan, a living museum devoted to photography, built around the collection of Seoul's - and probably Korea's - all time greatest photographer, the man who captured the soul of the city, of its people, of its alleyways. Furthermore, Kim Ki-chan grew up just hectometers away from the site, in Sajik-dong.

That would be great: permanent collections of great Korean photographers, temporary exhibitions, and as tribute to the people of Seoul KIM Ki-chan revealed for generations to see in their daily lives, a large space devoted to photos taken by anonym citizens.

At a time when human relations grow virtual, at a time when the whole city is captured thousands of time a day by its citizens and visitors for the whole world to see on social networks, Seoul has a duty to get real and to make something of all its fantastic cultural assets.

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* "Gauguin exhibition set for Seoul museum" (KJD 2013/01/23)

A thousand villages, a thousand memories - Seoul Photo Festival 2012

 

The theme of this year's SFF couldn't be more Seoulvillagey: "A thousand villages, a thousand memories", with a focus on the city and its inhabitants, and works by amateurs as well as well know classics from such great masters as my all time fave KIM Gi-chan*. The opportunity to see again Reverend Motoyuki Nomura's 1973 Cheonggyecheon, if you missed the expo at Seoul Museum of History.

Above, a 1950 picture of Namdaemun-ro by KIM Han-yong. Below, a 1972 shot by a certain Hanjeong Sik (in this order, his name means Korean food!), taken in Gyeonji-dong, Jongno-gu - that's the neighborhood around Ujeongguk-ro, Jogyesa's street:

Exhibitions also feature simple souvenir snapshots, and memories as fresh as 2012.

While you're roaming between City Hall, SeMA, the Seoul Museum of History and Gyeonghuigung, don't miss the Jeongdong in 1900 expo (expats in Jeongdong / the Korean pavillion at the Universal Exposition of Paris 1900), and see how the museum of history renewed its permanent collections, leveraging on past exhibitions.

 

Seoul Photo Festival 2012
천 개의 마을, 천 개의 기억 (A thousand villages, a thousand memories - exhibitions and conferences)
Date: 20121121-1230
Venues: Seoul Museum of Art - SeMA, Seoul City Hall, Seoul Museum of History
Tel: Dasan 120 (SFF: 070.8240.9902)
Website: SeoulPhotoFestival.com

Jeongdong in 1900
A Strange coexistence in Jeongdong / The Universal Exposition of Paris 1900
Date: 20121109-20130120
Seoul Museum of History
Tel: Dasan 120
Website: museum.seoul.kr

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* BTW Noonbit recently reedited series of pictures from their archives in a handy format. I already got the complete work of KIM Gi-chan, and a very interesting collection about Korean markets (mainly from the 80s-90s). You can find these white cinderblocks in most libraries and art galleries across Seoul.

Korean culture or Hallyu, Cultural contents or discontents

Ahead of last week, I planned to write one post on each one of these 3 events...

• Tuesday, September 11: the 7th Seoul International Media Art Biennale* starts at SeMA Seosomun and across the city under a screamingjayhawkinsian theme: "Spell on you":

 

• Thursday, September 13: DMC 10th Anniversary International Symposium and 2012 Seoul DMC Culture Open. Korea's main multimedia and entertainment cluster will succeed once all majors have joined Sangam, provided they accept to share value with truly independent start-ups**:

• Friday, September 14: conference at the Institut Francais de Coree, "Strategies de globalisation du cinéma coréen et Hallyu" ("Globalization Strategies for Korean cinema and Hallyu") with French thinker Guy Sorman and Korean movie brain KIM Dong-ho (actor slash producer slash founding director of PIFF/BIFF/Busan International Film Festival), moderated by RYU Jin-lyong, Director of the Hallyu Knowledge Center at the Catholic University of Korea. Ever the optimistic "free-marketer", Sorman believes in the power of individual creators. Kim knows better and understands what it takes to support culture. Note that France is the third market for Korean movies after Korea and the US, and the place where the first major K-pop concert in Europe was organized (SM Entertainment with the support of the Korean government). Of course, everybody agreed on the irrelevance of "Hallyu" / "Korean wave" as an umbrella brand for Korean culture, and on these evidences:
  - you don't want to watch a Korean movie because it's Korean, you want to watch good movies
  - culture and nationalism never mix well

... not to mention this fourth event, which I felt no need to write about...

• Saturday, September 8: KIM Ki-duk's "Pieta" wins Golden Lion for Best Film at la Mostra in Venice. The first time a Korean movie ever wins a top prize in a major festival. Park Chan-wook's "Oldboy" would have won the Palme d'Or in Cannes in 2004, had there been no US elections later that year: Michael Moore's "Fahrenheit 9/11" clearly received a push to balance Bush-Cheney's Weapons of Mass Disinformation.

... or of course this summer's hit, about to break the 200M view barrier on YouTube:

• Psy's horsing around satire of "Gangnam Style" (as far as I'm concerned, it's still the bicycle, and Stephane Jongno Style - 스테판 종로 스타일!):

I eventually decided to serve all 5 at once, "bibim" (bibim pop culture?). Not because I'm a lazy fella, but because together, they tell a lot about the strengths and weaknesses of Korean culture today.

The point? Korean culture is very much alive and kicking, thank you, and there are many reasons to believe that the future is even brighter, but the ecosystem is not totally sound, and it could become even stronger, more creative, and more sustainable.

Before moving to Korea from France, 21 years ago, I had a tough time reaching for Korean culture (or rather "Korean civilization", as Sorman is right to emphasize). I had the chance, as a kid, to own a book of traditional Korean tales, and as a student, to have met a few Koreans and expats who'd lived there. But even in Paris, home to "Langues O" or Musee Guimet, you had to dig deep. Heck. Even after landing in Seoul I felt frustrated: the first day, if it weren't for that courtesy visit to the office downtown, I wouldn't have caught a glimpse of Namdaemun in that - already back then - sea of high rise buildings.

Now, Seoul's cultural assets are much more highlighted. And now that the whole world is one click away, a Psy can Gangnamstylize tens of millions of people within a few days. Koreanity / Koreanhood / Koreanness / Koreanitude reaches beyond Korean nationals and expats, and millions declare unconditional love for the country even without having set foot in the Peninsula. But precisely, because the whole world is one click away, the fad can pass, the wave recede, or even turn into something negative: if a wavelet can be cute, a tsunami is rarely welcome.

Consider this: the Korean movie industry partly owes its boom to Hollywood. As a reaction to US lobbies who pushed harder into the country, it received a support similar to that of cinema in France, and it's no wonder both countries boast strong market shares for local productions. So much for the "invisible hand" of the market, Mr Sorman.

Anyway, Korea is progressively emerging. If not as a consistent global player, at least by sending more often visible signals in most cultural fields. To name a few:

- Language. At the same time the most important cultural asset for any people, and the most challenging task for Korea (even Koreans have a tough time mastering this beautiful tool). The trend is obviously very positive, with a boom in the number of people studying the language. But to go even further, pedagogy must improve, and it will necessarily as the base grows. And it is essential to reach beyond the minority target likely to get involved and learn the language. For that, Korea can leverage key assets, and must raise the awareness of Hangeul, a linguistic wonder, and Tripitaka Koreana, also a technological marvel... preferably a more subtle way than the Hunminjeongeum Society way***. Korean vocabulary must also permeate other languages, as naturally and peacefully as possible. Such popular culture as music is a good entry point (the "style" in Psy's title is relevant for the song but a missed opportunity for that purpose), but why not start by harmonizing the spelling of popular foods? Which brings us to the second domain...

- Food. I won't repeat my usual pitch**** on this vital dimension of Korean culture, arguably its best chance of shining durably. The globalization of Korean cuisine is now clearly identified as a major project, and Korean "brands" are getting more visible (dishes, industrial products, ingredients, restaurant chains...), but the political will doesn't always translate in tangible results. Among the most interesting "quality" trends: the rise of slow food and 'appellations', the invitation of world chefs to discover and adapt Korean cuisine and its ingredients... The future lies in the hands of amateur cooks across the globe, and on millions of palates, far beyond those of connoisseurs. And yes, street foods are as important as the finest dishes.

- Land. Korea is at last becoming a touristic destination, and every year visitors discover new dimensions beyond K-drama hotspots and UNESCO landmarks. From Boryeong Mud Festival to Temple Stay, the whole spectrum is covered. All major international editors have now produced guides, and the literature about the country has boomed everywhere. I can't believe the number of magazines and blogs covering every dimensions of Korea. When I started this excuse for a site, I would never have dreamed to see a blog devoted to Seoul subway station neighborhoods (the excellent Seoul SubUrban - seoulsuburban.com), or so many sites gathering so many great pictures of Seoul's fascinating alleyways. And like everywhere else, the democratisation of SNS, imaging tools, location based services enabled an always on process of mapping, recording, tracking - another reason why, for instance, I don't need to post about restaurants anymore. 20 years ago it was almost impossible to find pictures of old Seoul, and now the city does a terrific job at compiling its archives (see "Seoul Through Pictures 6", "Seoul from above : 40 years of archives soon available"...). I'm also glad to see Seoul city's official Facebook page move progressively away from the K-pop bubble and propose series of photos showing all different aspects of the city, even less glamour ones.

- Music. Saying that The Noraebang Nation loves music is an euphemism. But it's significant to notice the differences between "artisans" and "creators": on one hand world class musicians, directors, and voices, on the other few composers or writers really well known abroad. Personally, my favorite Korean song is LEE Mi-ja's "동백아가씨" ("Dongbaek agassi"), a trot that would sound corny as hell if it weren't for LEE's haunting voice. Of course there are great composers and writers, but vibrant democracy activist anthems belong to the past, and if the indie tradition remains, that side of Korean culture is not really well known overseas. Korea is nonetheless becoming a place where important things happen, with a vibrant rock festival scene, and systematic stops for the world tour of top names, from Lady Gaga to Robert Zimmerman (see "Bob Dylan knock knock knockin' on Seoul's door"). Mind if I don't mention K-pop? Actually nowadays, many K-pop hits are composed by non-Koreans - unlike Seo Taeji's "Nan Arayo!", a hit that crossed the frontiers long before the nip and tuck factory (SM Entertainment, YG Entertainment, JYP Entertainment) started mass producing dancing clones for export markets. Anyone can make it on YouTube and the success of PSY is a refreshing break, but this virtual horse rider does belong to a major stable.

 

- Performing arts. Definitely a strong point for Korea, particularly when you mix dance and voice. From Korean drums to Nanta, from mask dances and shamanic 'gut' to b-boy, from Pansori to K-pop... Yes, that's where I put K-pop, a popular kind of performing art where dance and surgically enhanced masks matter more than music itself*****. Even RAIN is better known for his looks and dance than for his songs, which he writes himself. Note that if the country can boast a strong tradition of festivals nationwide, it has not yet become a place where international artists create major works. It shouldn't be long though, and not just for a question of infrastructure (see previous episodes of the Seoul opera drama).

- Plastic arts. Forty years later, PAIK Nam-june remains the country's only artist with a global star status, and he was not recognized home until the dictature he fled fell. But many creators deserve critical acclaim, Seoul and Korea are a place to be (see "SeMA to block blockbusters"), and there's a lot of money around. Of course, as is too often the case with contemporary art worldwide, outsiders have a tough time getting their chance. But the ecosystem seems very strong, and all bases are covered: young talents, galleries, museums, patrons, exhibitions... And creatively speaking, the tradition-modernity continuum is perfectly working. 

- Cinema. Hallyuwood has never been stronger, and its future headquarters, the DMC, is not even fully operational. BIFF contributes to fuel the influence of an emerging Asian champion. Popular filmmakers and actors are getting international recognition (Park Chan-wook, Bong Joon-ho, Choi Min-sik, Song Kang-ho, Jeon Do-yeon...), even if it's a total outsider who caught the spotlights this year: KIM Ki-duk has always been rejected by Korea and recognized by Europe. Korean auteurs regularly receive critical acclaim in international festivals, and there seems to be room for everybody. Yet the system is dominated by very strong players who sometimes deprive creators from their authors' rights, because they're simply used to take all the value, not to share and nurture it.

- Literature. With SHIN Kyung-sook's "Please Look After Mom", Korea now holds an international bestseller. A silver lining in a country plagued by an education system that destroys creativity and all apetite for reading "non-useful" stuff (see "Seoul village libraries"). Among the interesting trends: more visibility for national treasures, a renewed interest for major XXth century authors...

- Media, Broadcasting. Korean media are not yet recognized as major global players, but media concentration has considerably increased under LEE's presidency, and traditional Korean broadcasters have gained visibility overseas, in particular with Arirang and KBS World, sending regular waves to the most distant shores. Among potential global powerhouses, CJ Group can leverage a full control of the value chain at home (production, distribution, broadcasting,...). The quality of contents is an issue: K-dramas are more consumer goods than timeless masterpieces; good exports in the short term, liabilities for the image if nothing comes next. The Land of Netizens has brought major innovations in the online media landscape (ie Ohmynews, Cyworld), but always struggled when it came to build truly international platforms.

- I could go on for years. Among other dimensions:
. Sports. The successes at the Olympic Games, the World Cup, or golf tournaments are fine, but Taekwondo played a very important role in the diffusion of the culture. I remember my surprise the first time I heard all the Korean words my teenage nefew learned in France along with the sport. Sports was also the medium that accelerated a minor yet significant cultural change: Western newscasters were criticized for not pronouncing Korean names correctly, and the right order prevailed at the turn of the millenium.
. Games are another interesting entry point. Unfortunately, the popular MMORPG invented in Korea, Lineage, has no reference to Korean culture whatsoever.
. Intangible assets. Korea protects its Great Masters, but a little bit too much. The cult of "wonjo" ("original") is a drag for the evolution to new levels, and the old masters are idolized to the point they have no contact with younger talents nor time to teach and pass the knowledge to the next generations. Han-dicrafts are han-dicapped.
. Architecture. The ondol and hanok revival also reaches beyond borders, and old techniques are successfully adapted to modern architecture. All the big names of architecture have produced one or several buildings in Seoul, but Korean architects are not famous overseas. Except for some interior design and a few really creative people who were allowed to toy around on a smaller scale, no wonder if you consider most landmarks.
. ...

Of course, all this is very subjective, selective, reductive, but the trends seem clear: globalization is under way, but more could be done to boost diversity and creativity, and to develop pedagogy / awareness / opportunities for the public.

Among the things I'd like to see:
- a reform of education (see previous posts)
- more sub-titles for Korean movies: Seoul is multiplying foreigner-friendly theaters and that's great, but with IPTV all Korean movies should be available with this feature. I'd watch ten times more Korean movies if this simple revolution happened.
- more context in the promotion of Korean contents, an historic perspective, keys for neophytes to visualize the cultural continuum
- guarantees for authors and creators: scenarists should be credited and keep their authors' rights, artists should get the fair payment for their work, not just feel grateful for being exposed.
- and most urgently, a licensing system that specifies the duties of broadcasters for cultural diversity. If you zap channels on your TV, all movie channels air the same kind of popular action movies and the pedagogy cannot be done, the public is not even aware of the existence of other contents. And it should not only a matter of what but a matter of who: major broadcasters should be prevented from using solely their own catalogue, and even finance independent creation as is the case in France. There's no other way of guaranteeing actual cultural diversity, and of course a sound and balanced ecosystem.
- ...

Seoul Village 2012
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* a.k.a. Mediacity Seoul (20120911-1104 - see mediacityseoul.kr)
** see among other posts related to the DMC: "Seoul Digital Media City Tour" (July 2010), "DMC aims at Tinseltown - welcome to Hallyuwood !" (February 2011), "DMC at full throttle - Songdo from Sim City to Sin City ?" (April 2011)... Note that SMG wants the buzz to move to the other side of the Han River, towards its Magok District project in Gangseo-gu.
*** see "Hangeul exports to Indonesia subject to dumping?"
**** see "Korean Cuisine Aiming At World's Top Five. China is watching"
***** and a non-sustainable business as it is - "K-popping bubbles"

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UPDATED 20120918 (typos!!! and links)