Seongbuk-dong Maemil Sujebi Nurungjibaeksuk (Seoul)

Frankly, this big, modern, two storey building evokes more a factory than a restaurant and more often than not, looks too packed with people. I don't know how many times I sneered at it but today I eventually decided to give it a try.

And I'm glad I did.

As the name clearly explains, the speciality is buckwheat (Maemil / 매밀) dough flakes in soup (sujebi / 수제비), and the location is Seongbuk-dong.

You can't ignore the place if you follow Seongbuk-dong-gil (that's the main road) all the way : the strategic fork where you either take off or land depending on where you're coming from (respectively East from Dongsomun-ro, or West from the Samcheon Tunnel and Samcheonggak).

In this very spot, at the feet of the Seoul version of Beverly Hills with its packs of residences for diplomats, a small park was recently created to celebrate peace between Seongbuk-gu, its sister cities, and all countries boasting a diplomat residence in the gu. As a result, they planted more flag poles than trees.

As I took a seat in the factory, looking through the window at this colorful installation, I almost heard the unmistakable clik of a tourist trap when it snaps shut on your spine. To cheer myself up, I decided that at least the food couldn't be terrible : maemil / buckwheat specialities are a commodity nowadays, and don't require much effort.

Neither did the decoration of the place, obviously - I guess the bulk of CAPEX, beyond land, went into the gigantic neon sign outside...

Almost without stopping, a chain worker moves 3 side dishes (banchan / 반찬) from a rolling cart to the table : gimchi, ggakdugi (깍두기 - that's radish gimchi), and white mul gimchi (물김치 - that's water gimchi). Each one is OK, but the red and white combo adds to the weird impression of being cast in a Jacques Tati movie.

Enter the maemil bindaetteok (매밀 빈대떡).

Now this is good. Plus you can use each portion to wrap young shots with a touch of chogochujang (초고추장) sauce.

I try both maemil sujebis versions : in wild sesame broth and with clams. Both deliciously rustic, but with a deeper and more original twist for the wild sesame.

I have to come back for dinner, and try their piece de resistance : a yummy combo featuring chicken soaked in guess what.

Seoul Village 2009

Seongbuk-dong Maemil Sujebi Nurungjibaeksuk / 성북동 메밀 수제비 누룽지백숙 (restaurant)
281-1 Seongbuk-2-dong, Seongbuk-gu, Seoul, ROK
Tel : +82.2.764.0707

25h Myeonok

Wanghimni Newtown will not rise before a few more years. Yet, the area is changing at a very quick pace, starting from Wangshimni Station. Just like with Cheonggyecheon, many shops adopted the same system of wooden signs, masking the ugly old buildings behind. New constructions are already changing the main street, internal franchises and banks tend to multiply.

25si Meyonok is not likely to disappear that soon. This small noodle specialist offers a fake traditional decor but a very good, simple and cheap sujebi (수제비 also writen Sujoebi or Sujeobi after its sujeop-bi origin).

25H Myeonok / 25시면옥 (restaurant)
286-4 Haengdong-dong, Seongdong-gu, SEOUL, ROK
Tel : +82.2.2297.8522

Seoul Village 2008

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