SeMA's saemaeuldeul

SeMA's latest branch was inaugurated on March 12 in Siheung-dong, Geumcheon-gu. Between an elementary school, big apateu blocks, the huge district office and its namesake subway station, this long, low rise structure designed by KIM Chan-joong sits in a small park and dons a headband reflecting light like a screen, probably an echo to its dedication to new media art.

The new ship is docked to its neighborhood through an anchor outdoor installation (Yaloo's Shininho Landing), and an inaugural exhibition ('Mneme topos') honoring its own construction. Nothing revolutionary or pretentious; visitors are even entertained with fun signage from the parking lot to various outdoor spots. The idea seems to make families and newbies comfortable, contemporary art accessible to everyone. 

Seo-Seoul Museum of Art fills a cultural gap in southwest Seoul, and somehow combines Siheung-dong's nature dimension with Doksan-dong's industrial culture. Going to Geumnarae Central Park with the kids or to the district office for some administrative stuff? You can seize the opportunity and take a short cultural break. 

#SeoSeoulMuseumofArt in #Geumcheongu, #Seoul.#culture #architecture pic.twitter.com/DsmrQsiSbu

— Seoul Village 🇺🇦 (@theseoulvillage) April 24, 2026

Previously, SeMA only had one site south of the Hangang, in Gwanak-gu: the Nam-Seoul Museum of Art inaugurated in September 2004 in the former Belgian Consulate building relocated to Namhyeon-dong 21 years earlier.

Before Seo-Seoul, SeMA's last inauguration (in May 2025) was at the diagonal opposite in Chang-dong, Dobong-gu. A sliced dark cube - or should I say a camera obscura? - The Photography Seoul Museum of Art is a more daunting beast, with an edgier inaugural program featuring familiar names, but also experimental artists I'd never knew graced the Park Chung-hee era.

View this post on Instagram

A post shared by Stephane MOT (@stephanemot)

As it opens, step by step, new Seoul villages to art, SeMA welcomes as always visitors for free. In case you missed any, here are the other venues:

• Seosomun Main Building: SeMA's Main Branch is located in Seosomun-dong, Jung-gu, in the original Supreme Court (built in 1928). Inaugurated in 1988, it moved in 2002 from Sinmunno-2-ga, Jongno-gu, within Gyeonghuigung grounds (now the site of the Seoul Museum of History).
  
  
• Buk-Seoul Museum of Art: inaugurated in September 2013 in Junggye-dong, Nowon-gu, SeMA's second biggest branch filled a regional void and often proposes interesting exhibitions
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
• Also:
• Archives, Seoul Museum of Art (inaugurated in April 2023 on the main axis of Pyeongchang-dong, Jongno-gu).
•  SeMA Storage (inaugurated in 2016 in the former Innovation Park in Nokbeon-dong, Eunpyeong-gu )
• SeMA Bunker (inaugurated in October 2017 under the Yeouido park and former runway - in Yeouido-dong, Yeongdeungpo-gu)
• Nanji Residency SeMA  (in Sangam-dong, Mapo-gu)
• Paik Ground (formerly Nam Jun Paik memorial house, inaugurated on March 10, 2017 in Changsin-dong, Jeongno-gu)

Seoul Village 2026
Welcome to our Korean Errlines! Follow Seoul Village on Facebook, Bluesky, Threads, Substack, and X/Twitter, follow me on Instagram.
Download 'Seoul VillageS', the free ebook.

K-Pope mania hits Seoul, Jongno-style

So Pope Francis landed in South Korea, welcomed by the traditional gun salute from the North...

Stalin asked 'The Pope! How many divisions has he got?" North Korea's suggested answer: Pope Francis is worth 5 rockets
twitter.com/theseoulvillage/status/499808764644429825

... and in the advertised set of wheels - only in a darker color than expected:

(July 28) In Seoul, Pope Francis' Soul will be white. And branded Kia.
twitter.com/theseoulvillage/status/493663654928474113
(August 14) Pope Francis' Soul is greyer than scheduled
twitter.com/theseoulvillage/status/499735563646169090

The Pope's program comprises at least 10 stations, from the Blue House today to Myeongdong Cathedral on August 18, with an Assumption mass in Daejeon World Cup Stadium tomorrow, and a mass for the beatification of Korea's 124 martyrs on Gwanghwamun Square the 16th, which requires extra security around Sejongno:

(@pearswick: Korean police to build huge wall inside Seoul for Pope visit - only those registered can enter)
Meet Seoul's inner fortress wall: the one erected downtown for Pope Francis' visit
twitter.com/theseoulvillage/status/495858701853396992

But everything seems ready for the big day:

Gwanghwamun more than ever a cross-road - Seoul's ready for Pope Francis' visit
twitter.com/theseoulvillage/status/499567502276300800

Even I am not taking any chances:

Do something, quick! I don't want to be stuck to 666 followers when Pope Francis visits
twitter.com/theseoulvillage/status/499432267295375361
(PS: thanks to the kind tweeters who lifted me away from that Number of the Beast - even if I won't be saved that easily)

The Pope will also visit several sites in Chungcheongnam-do: Solmoe Shrine in Dangjin, Haemi castle and shrine in Seosan. A stop at the martyr shrine in Seosomun Park is also planned. BTW here's the winning project in a recent competition for this historic site:

Speaking of Seosomun and Catholicism: just off Gwanghwamun, the Seoul Museum of History proposes an exhibition until October 31 on Seoul's East and West small gates (Seosomun and Dongsomun), and the - to say the least - not always festive history of Korean catholicism:

Kim Dae-geon, Korea's first Catholic priest. Among Saenamteo martyrs to be blessed by Pope Francis
twitter.com/theseoulvillage/status/499376326625595393

More tweets about Pope Francis


Seoul Village 2014
Welcome to our Korean Errlines! Follow Seoul Village on Facebook and Twitter

Add this page to your favorites
.

Jeongdong-kill

Today, Korea Joongang Daily published more details on the "logic" behind the revolting U-turn made by Seoul and Jung-gu on what used to be a model urban improvement; the district decided to let tourist buses destroy the once scenic Jeongdong-gil:

"Asphalt mars palace walkway's scenic charm" (Korea Joongang Daily 20131127)

Seoul gives in to tourist buses, covers Jeongdong-gil with asphalt. Buses should have been banned instead twitter.com/theseoulvillage/status/405471457003585536

Jeongdong-gil is the street crossing Jeong-dong between Sejongdae-ro and Saemunan-ro, or rather between Deoksugung and Donuimun - a neighborhood also very rich in history for foreign communities. 

The winding stretch along the palace walls accomodates only one narrow lane that leads to a small roundabout (Seoul Museum of Art's main branch, Jeongdong Cheil Church, path to the US Embassy's residence). The second leg goes both ways, and hosts among other theaters Nanta, a major venue. In the morning and in the evening, sessions often collide with drop-off / pick-up times for the local girls schools, most notably Ewha, provoking maddening traffic jams. On exam days, the video game reaches a new level, with herds of zombie girls crossing the street, their eyes glued to worn out textbooks.

And I'm not even counting the police buses lined in front of the palace: over the past few years, Daehanmun has become a demonstration hotspot, culminating in the Ssangyong Motors saga (200 cops guarding every night a few square meters to prevent further occupation).

Nanta is not even 100 m away from Saemunan-ro, the maximum one has to walk from either end of Jeongdong-gil is 450 m, and this is one of the most pleasant walks in the city.

From the start, buses should have been banned from this street and this roundabout, but you sometimes see six to ten of those waiting for their shows to end. Even before the latest changes made to the street (street stones removed, driveway widened by 50 cm), they already killed Jeongdong by their sole presence.

Jeongdong-gil rehabilitation in 1998 followed the destruction of the Japanese Government-General Building (1995-96), and preceded other spectacular changes in downtown Seoul (Insadong 2000, Seoul Plaza 2004, Cheonggyecheon 2005, Gwanghwamun Square 2009, Gwanghwamun 2010...). Each revival had marked a triumph of urbanism and pedestrians over the Car Almighty that had disgraced the capital over the XXth century... and now this.

Exposing an embarrassing lack of vision, Jung-gu and Seoul have surrendered to the tourist industry by destroying an acclaimed touristic asset instead of working on solutions that are sustainable for both.

I've already insisted on the importance of addressing bus issues in a city that's still not used to coping with millions of tourists. Some efforts have been made, for instance to prevent buses from running their engines when they're parked (generally for heating / cooling purposes), but little to alleviate traffic and to deal with growing lines.

Simply put: no tourist bus should be allowed to park outside of bus-only parking spaces, and instead of multiplying those downtown, more discreet (and preferably underground) lots should be created at a reasonable distance of the main tourist hubs. 

And since, as we speak, all buses come from South Korea (unlike in Paris, for instance, where the DMZ has little effect to block foreign fleets), they can all be equipped with tracking devices to monitor the traffic and control abuses. Typically, no tourist bus should be allowed in Seoul and particularly within "Sadaemun" (historic center) without a proper system.


Seoul Village 2013
Welcome to our Korean Errlines! Follow Seoul Village on Facebook and Twitter

Add this page to your favorites

SeMA Nowon: better than Gauguin

Never say never again: one year ago, the Seoul Museum of Art announced that it would distance itself from big shows with big international names (see "SeMA to block blockbusters"), but 2012 ended with the Tim Burton extravaganza (talk about big fish), and yesterday*, The  Korea JoongAng Daily detailed SeMA's plans for the year to come, starring a major Paul Gauguin exhibition to be held June-September 2013 in Seosomun branch (talk about a summer blockbuster).

It's great, particularly for a large public who never had the occasion to see really significant works from an artist I love, but I was much more interested in updates regarding the future SeMA North Branch in Nowon-gu.

I always wondered what would come out of this site, still hidden by tall fences last time I passed by, last month. That's a very good location, between Junggye and Hagye stations, surrounded by massive apartment blocks and just in front of a key commercial hotspot: Outlet 2001 +, HomePlus (formerly HomEver, formerly Carrefour Junggye), the second one after Nowon Station, on the other side of Danghyeoncheon. Perfect to reach for new visitors, and to boost Northeast Seoul's cultural life. 

SeMA North Branch (SeMA Nowon? SeMA Junggye?) will be inaugurated in July 2013, and officials quoted in the article mentioned "crafts, design, and architecture" and "public art" as the main "verticals" for the new venue. We also received the confirmation that the Main Branch (SeMA Seosomun) would propose more international magnets. It is very important to couple each event with a more local one: I sincerely hope many visitors to the Tim Burton show stopped by the wonderful exhition of Seoul pictures on the ground floor (see "A thousand villages, a thousand memories - Seoul Photo Festival 2012"). Bonus: that expo was free. But of course, that's not the reason why I visited the Seoul photo festival expo three times, sharing twice very emotional moments with fellow visitors I'd never met before, but who had personal stories with certain pictures or photographers.

The potential repositioning of SeMA Nam Seoul (South Branch, near Sadang) is not very clear, but I guess the editorial line will remain focused on more intimate exhibitions.

What about SeMA Gyeonghuigung, that big space in the most prestigious of all locations, but an empty shell most of the time?

My dream would be a SeMA KIM Ki-chan, a living museum devoted to photography, built around the collection of Seoul's - and probably Korea's - all time greatest photographer, the man who captured the soul of the city, of its people, of its alleyways. Furthermore, Kim Ki-chan grew up just hectometers away from the site, in Sajik-dong.

That would be great: permanent collections of great Korean photographers, temporary exhibitions, and as tribute to the people of Seoul KIM Ki-chan revealed for generations to see in their daily lives, a large space devoted to photos taken by anonym citizens.

At a time when human relations grow virtual, at a time when the whole city is captured thousands of time a day by its citizens and visitors for the whole world to see on social networks, Seoul has a duty to get real and to make something of all its fantastic cultural assets.

Seoul Village 2013
Welcome to our Korean Errlines! Follow Seoul Village on Facebook and Twitter

* "Gauguin exhibition set for Seoul museum" (KJD 2013/01/23)

Seosomun Level Crossing

20 years ago, this level crossing was already an oddity in the heart of Seoul - even nowadays, I often wait deliberately for the next train, just to feel the vibes:

This is the intersection between Seosomunro and Uijuro (now Tongil-ro), Gyeongbu Line's final stretch until Seoul Station. Here, just a sling shot away from JoongAng Ilbo HQ or the French Embassy, hobos err between both sides of the overpass: Seosomun Park to the right, and to the left the charity where they can get a meal for free. In the background, one of my favorite buildings in Seoul: the amazing Seosomun Apateu (see "Jongno Chapssal Sundae at Seosomun Apt").
Seoul Village 2012
NEW : follow Seoul Village on Facebook and Twitter

UPDATED20120418

SeMA to block blockbusters

Seoul's blockbuster exhibition frenzy* may cool down a few notches. As we saw over the past few years, Van Gogh, Monet, Renoir, Klimt, Rodin, Warhol, or Chagall came to town in unprecedented waves, while at the other end of the spectrum, younger generations got a pretty nice share of spotlight**. Unsurprisingly, confirmed Korean artists didn't receive the attention they deserved, so the new head of the Seoul Museum of Art wants to switch to a more balanced diet*** (NB: I promise, that's it for my f***g ***s today).

Even if it doesn’t look as impressive as the massive Seoul Art Center complex in Seocho-gu, SeMA does have a lot of space to fill, but it's split between different venues. Until now, the editorial line looked (a little bit) like this:

• for power hitters: the main building in Jung-gu (former Supreme Court HQ in Seosomun). Bonus: print and TV ads, plus bright flag advertising banners all along Deoksugung-gil.
• for minor league players: a small yet cute Nam Seoul annex in Gwanak-gu (the former Belgian Embassy in Namhyeon-dong). Bonus: subliminal pop-ups on SeMA’s website.
• for little league toddlers: an architectural mess at the entrance of Gyeonghuigung (picture the roof of Munich Olympiastadion next to a royal palace – Prada Transformer did a much better job for the contrast). Bonus: the place seems to open only between 2.37 and 3.45 AM on certain holidays every leap year (of course I’m exaggerating: I remember among other successes a recent Seoul Photo Festival)
• Note that SeMA also acts as an incubator for promising artists in Mapo-gu (Nanji Art Space in Sangam-dong, in the Seoul Art Space spirit)

Significantly, these days, SeMA stars Yann Arthus Bertrand in yet another photo expo milking his Earth from Above series and Home movie ("It's my home"). Seosomun building also hosts a less advertized show about "Korean Abstract Painting - 10 Perspectives", and chances are I won't go all the way down South to see the most original program ("Where's my friend's home?" almost seems tailored for the Seoul Museum of History).

Typically, the new boss, who only took over a few days ago, wants to make more room for Korean artists in their 40s and 50s, and why not, to push beyond walls, towards the charming walkway of Deoksugung-gil (the museum gardens were already used as a stage in recent expos, and a couple of years ago, a trio of bronze sculptures featured at KIAF 2008 has been permanently installed across the entrance, by the palace walls).

It would take a Paik Nam-june to bring the same crowds as the blockbusters of the Noughties, but I don’t think that’s the aim of the game anymore. It’s not about flash events featuring big brands, but about brand building for art itself: now people must come even when there isn't a big name. Museum executives used to outsource the organization to a well connected producer: they will now have to do their jobs, and to contribute to a vast pedagogy effort that must also involve the media and school systems.

If SeMA already contributed a lot to the democratization of modern and contemporary art in Seoul, it cannot fulfill all its missions and fill all its venues with blockbusters occulting the rest (which also includes such recurrent events as the Media Art Biennale or the Print Biennal). So it can leave classic blockbusters to say the SAC, and devote more energy to more ambitious programs and to permanent collections... even if, of course, it cannot build as extensive a collection as the MOCA's (SeMA does propose a decent exhibition of its New acquisitions every year, though).

Speaking of the National Museum Of Contemporary Art: here too, a new chief has just been named this very week. Among the big challenges: preparing the inauguration of the "UUL National Art Museum" next year (reminder: the former Defense Security Command in Sogyeok-dong, a future landmark).

This period of fine tuning in normal considering the boom of the past years, as Seoul caught up with fellow world capitals in cultural infrastructures. As a younger player, it can learn from past mistakes. For instance, as a Parisian, it's interesting to see how long it took for the Musee d'Art Moderne to adapt to the new 'competitive environment' following the success of Centre George Pompidou.

To be continued.

Seoul Village 2012
NEW : follow Seoul Village on Facebook and Twitter

*"Gustav Klimt at Seoul Arts Center - Pompidou at SeMA"

** see for instance the ASYAAF series

**"SeMA to shift away from 'blockbuster' exhibitions" (Korea JoongAng Daily 20120206)

Jinju Hoegwan (Seoul)

If kongguksu is a very refreshing dish for the summer, this one almost tastes like "creme anglaise", the vanilla cream you pour on your fondant au chocolat. In other words : yummy.

Don't waste your time and money ordering the local seokeo jjigae (섞어찌게), a dull sort of budae jjigae. Jinju Hoegwan is a well known institution in this small cluster of eateries at the feet of downtown towers, at the exit 9 of City Hall station. But the place is full even on Sundays.

Jinju Hoegwan / 진주회관 (restaurant)
120-35 Seosomun-dong, Jung-gu, Seoul, ROK
Tel: +82.2.753.5388

Seoul Village
NEW : follow Seoul Village on Facebook and Twitter

Botero v. Renoir

A smart way of beating summer heat is to tour Seoul museums, and a charming way to do so is to double it with a walk in Deoksu palace area.

These days, you're likely to come across a lot of colors and plump bodies : the MOCA Annex at Deoksugung features Fernando Botero, and the SeMA Pierre-Auguste Renoir.

There is definitely a pattern for both museums, with a Latino flavor for the former (see last year's "Masters of Latin American Art of the 20th Century"), and an impressionist (yet blockbuster) touch for the latter (Monet, van Gogh... even if the latter reaches beyond impressionism and even expressionism).

If you feel in a darker mood, you can also check that other SeMA exhibition, "Monster era - Dissonant Visions". Warning : unlike the recent neo-pop "Art in Bloom 2009" show, this one could be disturbing for young kids.



Renoir - "Promise of Happiness"
2009.05.28-09.13
Seoul Museum of Art
30, Misulgwan-gil, Seosomun-dong, Jung-gu, Seoul, ROK 100-813
Tel +82.2.724.2900
renoirseoul.com

Fernando Botero
2009.06.30-09.17
The Annex of the National Museum of Contemporary Art at Deoksugung
Deoksugung, 5-1 Jeong-dong, Jung-gu, Seoul, ROK
Tel +82.2.368.1414
botero.moca.kr

"Monster era - Dissonant Visions"
2009.06.24-08.30
Seoul Museum of Art
Apocalypse of Dystopia : Ahn Chang-hong, Ji Yong-ho (Jaguars), Kim Haesook (Metamorphosis), Lee Han-soo, Park Bul-ddong (3 collage effects including a startling portrait), Shin Hak-cheol, Song Myeong-jin
Forbidden Land : Debbie Han, Han Hyo-seok (portraits and installation recently exposed at Gallery Artside - Zeitgeist exhibition), Jang Ji-ha, Jeon Min-soo, Kim Joon, Kim Nam-pyo, Lee Wan.
Inner Monster : Lee Jae-heon (obviously a Bacon wannabe), Lee Seung-ae, Lim Yeong-jeon, Oh Chi-gyoon, Ryu Seung-hwan, Shim Seung-ook.

Jongno Chapssal Sundae at Seosomun Apt

Welcome to one of my favorite buildings in Seoul.

Located in the Southeastern tip of the Chungjeongno-Uijuro-Seosomunno triangle,
Seosomun Apateu has long been snubbed by official city maps because no building is supposed to exist here. Tenants actually don't own any piece of land, as is usually the case in an appartment complex. Seosomun Apt does exist, and the police doesn't seem to mind: they're right next door.

This thin arch of concrete is even more surreal from the inside: every floor reminds me of the fabled 7 1/2th floor in 'Being John Malkovich". A bit over 5 feet 10, I'm not much of a giant but here, I bump everywhere.

The nearby level crossings add to the odd atmosphere, more welcoming now that the sidewalks have been colored in red. An ideal place to enjoy a snack. Why not at Jongno Chapssal Sundae? Here, in the middle of the curve, you can keep an eye on the whole neighborhood while enjoying a decent sundaeguk.

Jongno Chapssal Sundae (restaurant)
Seosomun Apt, Migeun-dong, Jung-gu, Seoul, ROK
Tel : +82.2.312.5608

Seoul Village

see other restaurants in Seoul and Korea.

----
201204 addendum: about the level crossings, check this recent video - the apt appears in the background ("Seosomun Level Crossing"