Neighborhood watch

Did you know that Yeonhui-dong area was seriously considered by Jeoson dynasty founders for their new capital (nowadays Seoul)? They eventually chose Bugaksan instead of Ansan because the place could be defended more easily, but Sinchon owes its name (new village) to that period, and King Sejong loved the place so much he built a palace for his father. Unfortunately, nothing remains of it and no one knows where Yeonhuigung was precisely erected. I guess somewhere along what is now Yeonhui-ro, not far from Yeonhuimat-gil, where a streamlet used to flow a few decades ago: according to feng shui, you had to have a 'ying' mountain behind you, and a 'yang' river below.

Anyway. It was then said that some day, kings would live here. And it turns out that two former presidents have a residence in Yeonhui-dong (Chun Doo-hwan and Roh Tae-woo), and that former president Kim Dae-jung used to live just a few blocks away, in Donggyo-dong (and to shop at Saruga, then the country's first supermarket). Note that Chun and Roh share ROK army backgrounds, and that land was granted to high ranking officers in the area following the Korean War: fierce combats raged in Yeonhui-dong around Hill 104, a strategic position, and a gateway to the Capital.

These days, Roh Tae-woo is very ill and Chun Doo-hwan seldom leaves home. As is the custom for former presidents, their residences are heavily guarded, and you can tell when a big fish is visiting by the insigna of the people waiting outside. Guards have to live in the vicinity, and a whistleblower recently revealed that the crew in charge of protecting Chun used, free of charge, a building within the Seoul Art Space Yeonhui* domain (next to his residence), and that the contract would expire on April 30th.

Last year, Seoul Mayor Park Won-soon received a welcomed last minute boost for his election when a scandal broke out regarding the future personal protection of President Lee Myung-bak (suspicious land acquisitions for his retirement place and security facilities). In this even bigger election year, chances are he won't renew a contract that ensures for free, in the most charming public residence for writers, the protection of a former dictator.

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*see "Seoul Art Space Yeonhui"

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UPDATE 20120208

As expected, Seoul Metropolitan Government won't renew the contract: "Chun's security detail to be booted off city land" (in today's Korea JoongAng Daily)

Good Morning Hanoi (Seoul)

Yeonhui-dong has always been a fantastic spot for Korean and Japanese food lovers but beyond that, culinar diversity used to be limited to pizza toppings.

That's changing, and very quickly. "Change" doesn't necessarily means "for the better" : Yeonhui-dong Haejangguk, an institution, is folding. And when I learned that a Pho restaurant would replace a Japanese restaurant not far from Saruga, I expected one of the usual franchises to open shop, with a 75:25 chance of failure.

But Good Morning Hanoi is not your usual franchise : it woke up the area with a rather baroque decor (more 'Good Night Las Vegas' ?), and more significantly with a strong statement on our palates. Not only delicious but freshly and delicately crafted, with sometimes a touch of originality, like that fusion Tom Yam Lau with a soupcon of cloves. Even the fried rice and nems (spring rolls) can be praised. It didn't take long for GMH to join the crowd of Yeonhui restaurants with long waiting lines.

More pressure on the shoulders of future newcomers : every other building is under renovation in this section of Yeonhuimat-gil (now Yeonhuimat-ro), between Saruga (itself in its crysalid state) and Donggyo-ro.

Good Morning Hanoi / 하노이의 아침 (restaurant - Yeonhui branch)
Yeonhuimat-ro, Seodaemun-gu, Seoul, ROK
Tel +82.2.323.5320
other branches : Yeouido, Seorae Village, Sinchon, Inchon...

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Saruga begins its metamorphosis

A major landmark in Yeonhui-dong, Saruga shopping center is a traditional source for imported goods, food and beverages, and a sure bet when you need fine fish for sushis... but as you roam countless booths packed with all kinds of goods, you often feel like in a time capsule stuck in the early nineties. And the building itself doesn't look very young.

This is about to change: by May 23rd, Saruga will have finished its renovation and judging by the scaffolding and the destruction of the annex near the parking lot, changes should be spectacular. New dwellings are also planned.

Actually, the whole area is experiencing intense renovations, with tens of houses being rebuilt or redesigned, and scores of new coffee shops or boutiques opening at every corner, turning a rather conservative neighborhood (e.g. former presidents CHUN Doo-whan and ROH Tae-woo, respectively North and South of Yeonhui Samgeori) into a more "bourgeois boheme" spot.

Let's see how Saruga adapts to its new environment, or why not, whether it decides to set the pace again.

--- UPDATE 20110610 ---

"Sahruga" no more, Saruga reopened today with a bigger and more upscale supermarket featuring bilingual signs everywhere, a mini food court, a cafe with terrace on the second floor (Angel-in-us instead of the old furniture shop), a Dunkin Donuts on the first floor, and shops with a direct access to the lateral and back street : only a small island of booths subsists, and large window panes fully integrate the building with its neighborhood (even if the second entrance on Yeonhuimat-ro disappeared).

Seoul Village 2011