Seoul Hall of Urbanism and Architecture, Seoul Biennale 2019 Symposium

The day before Mayor PARK Won-soon cut the ribbon with a dozen VIPs (see below), the new Seoul Hall Of URbanism and Architecture hosted a pre-Seoul Biennale Symposium. A perfect occasion to roam the venue, to the notable exception of the exhibition spaces, and key connections to the neighborhood's underground system, which only opened for the official inauguration.

Yes, I'm talking about the 'Sejongdaero' project we followed from its earliest stages, back in 2015, where the old Japanese tax office used to stand:
. "Tear down that tax office" (20150506)
. "Sejongdaero" competition officially started' (20150727)
. "Sejong-daero winner announced" (20151012)

But before exploring this Seoul HOUR, how about a focus on the Biennale and its symposium?

 

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#RibbonCutting ceremony: #SeoulHOUR inauguration with #Seoul mayor #ParkWonsoon and #SeungHyosang. #SeoulHallOfUrbanismAndArchitecture #서울도시건축전시관 #architecture #urbanism

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2019 Seoul Biennale and Pre-Biennale Symposium

If the first symposium, held at the Seoul Museum of History in October 2015, questioned even the principle of a biennale (why not a triennale?), this one went as far as presenting the material used to build the stands. A sharp contrast between an exploratory discussion two years before a first edition, and an operational briefing six months ahead of the second.

"#Seoul, #Barcelona, #Yokohama, #Shenzhen, #Medellin, #Berlin on stage of #SIBAU2015 Symposium " (20151027 - https://twitter.com/theseoulvillage/status/658845140505653248)

A new tandem, LIM Jaeyong and Francisco SANIN, replaced PAI Hyungmin and Alejandro ZAERA-POLO at the heads of the bicephale biennale, knowing that, of course, SEUNG H. Sang remains close by, even if this time, he didn't take the mike (cameo apparitions on a few slides, though).

"#Seoul Biennale 2019 Symposium 20190327.
Between #Francisco Sanin and #Lim Jaeyong: #Cho Minsuk, #Armando Hashimoto, #Peter Wilson, #Noura Al Sayeh, #Chon Jaesun, #Alicia Lazzaroni... #Seoul Biennale of Architecture and Urbanism #architecture #urbanism #seoulhour" (20190412 - https://www.instagram.com/p/BwI7PM9JFsL/)

After 'Imminent Commons', Seoul went for the theme 'Collective City' (announced last December), around the same 4 main axes:

• Thematic exhibition (curator Beth Hugues): research and propositions around the 'collective city' notion, held in the DDP (Design Exhibition Hall, Design Pathway). Let's see what comes up from the various topics (typology, post-domestic city, mediation, heritage, infrastructures, ecology...).
• Cities exhibition (curators YIM Dongwoo, Rafael LUNA): I'm excited by the choice of Donuimun Museum Village and its Seoul Center for Architecture and Urbanism for the venue instead of the DDP, where the first edition took place. Mind you, that was a terrific exhibition, and they managed to make it not look like a fair, in spite of the site, but Sinmunno provides the perfect - if challenging - backdrop for a genuine global village, with actual alleyways. Dongwoo already researched innovative mapping axes for the 80 cities.
• Global studio (curator CHOE Sanki): note the semantic shift from the 'international studios' of the first edition (curated by John HONG, who presented his return on experience). All events shall be concentrated around Seun Sangga (Sewoon Plaza, Sewoon Hall).
• Live Projects (curator JANG Young-chul): articulated around the concept of market, very relevant in the context of a collective city, particularly since, as JANG reminded us, the '시' in '도시' (city) means 'market'. Two venues: Seun Sangga (Sewoon Plaza, Daelim Sangga), and the Seoul Museum of History.

I presume Seoul HOUR shall also serve as a venue, if not a hub. Anyway, Sadaemun's Jong-ro - Saemunan-ro horizontal remains the biennale's urban backbone. And if you forgot what I'm referring to, I shalt forgive thee, but here's the animated map:





If I'm looking forward this second biennale (September 7 - November 10), this symposium was already worth attending, with stimulating presentations, moments and chats. Special mentions to:

• Jae-sung CHON's ode to the collective mess (he had me from the start by mentioning Kowloon Walled City and Seoul markets), and his fake news journal to project the reader in the future... that's my vision of urbanism, where you shouldn't sanitize everything, but leave room for organisms to evolve, grow, mutate by themselves. 
• Peter Ferretto's respect for China's threatened wonders (beautiful project in Gao Bu, Hunan). 
• CHO Minsuk's updates on Danginri and Bamseom, the rooftop theater of his Seoul Cinematheque. 
• Alicia Lazzaroni's 'vulnerability as a design' 
• KIM So-young's 'negociated city' 
• Erik L'Heureux's lyricism about HCMC's forgotten gems. He saw no connections to Seoul, but I couldn't stop thinking about my dear "Hoehyeon Apt, Chungjeong Apt, Dongdaemun Apt, Ogin Apt..." 
• John HONG reclaiming preservation as radical, 'Citizen Jane'-style, and LIM Jaeyong musing 'but if it's us vs them, who are we, who are they?'

On the eve of its inauguration, at the new #Seoul Hall Of Urbanism And Architecture for the Pre-Biennale Symposium
Workshop featuring (left to right): #Peter Tagiuri #Alicia Lazzaroni #Klaas Kresse #Kim Soy-oung #Patrick Weber #John Hong #Choe Sanki #Erik L'Heureux #Chon Jaesung #Peter Ferretto #Rafael Luna #Yim Dongwoo
#Seoul Biennale #Seoul Biennale of Architecture and Urbanism #서울도시건축프리비엔날레 #SBAU
#서울도시건축전시관 #seoulhour (SeoulVillage Facebook page - 20190327)

***

Seoul Hall of Urbanism and Architecture


So we now know how this 'Seoul Chronicle' works, and what its purpose is. From the beginning, I liked the minimalist approach with a focus on connectivity over and underground, the new building subliming surrounding structures: Deoksugung walls, the Seoul Anglican Cathedral, and even the less gracious Seoul Metropolitan Council, whose campanile almost ends up making sense. 

You can reach Seoul HOUR's rooftop from all sides, and face the stream of Sejongdaero as if from a non-scary diving board, with the bulging side of Seoul City Hall in front of you, Gwanghwamun to your left, and Seoul Plaza to your right. If you return to street level, you can also enjoy a panoramic view while sipping a cup of - what else* - coffee.

"Of course, #SeoulHOUR also has a cafe (ground level), and a rooftop view on #Seoul City Hall and #Seoul Anglican Cathedral (just-above-ground-level rooftop) #서울도시건축전시관 #Seoul Hall Of Urbanism And Architecture" (201903 https://twitter.com/theseoulvillage/status/1110894852370161664)

Now in this kind of iceberg structures, you need to dive well below the surface, through 3 underground levels with relatively low ceilings, except in strategic places, and of course for 'VIUM Hall', the huge parallepiped going through all four levels. Frankly, the first impression of this main exhibition space is a bit disappointing: you can reach it directly through a central, monumental staircase that feels somehow like a Seoul subway entrance (yes, as advertised, Seoul HOUR is connected to the Sejongno underground network, which means among others City Hall, and the subway). Furthermore, halfway down, your first glance at the inaugural exhibition (about Vienna public housing) is from above, which makes it look smaller and weaker behind its scaffoldings. Video projections on the wall to your right don't quite make for the big dark void in front of you. I understand the architectural logic to prolong Deoksugung's walls, but from this angle, this corner is really too dark, and not exactly awe inspiring.

But that can be fixed easily; a towering exhibit, or why not an ethereal SUH Do-ho fabric house?

To truly appreciate the hall's volume, this is the best angle, facing lighter structures, the glass connections to the other floors and exhibition spaces, the window towards the street:

"#Seoul HOUR Inauguration with #Seoul mayor #Park Won-soon:" (20190328 https://twitter.com/theseoulvillage/status/1111134424853184514)

Here are the 4 inaugural exhibitions: 

• 'Vienna Model - the past, present, and future of public housing', with a resolutely no-frills museography
• 'The social role of architecture' (starting with Seoullo 7017, just to make the mayor happy, I presume)
• 'An-other Seoul', with a 3D map of the capital city reminiscent of the bigger one at the Seoul Museum of History, and an interesting scenario: what if, instead of reducing every year greenbelt areas (see "Land mining Seoul"), urban planners made better use of the sites related to infrastructure, which represent almost two thirds of Seoul's total surfce?
• 'Documenting the city', curated by LEE Sang-koo, with a focus on familiar lost villages (Sinwol-dong, Sanggye-dong, Geoyeo-dong).

"#Sneak peek at #Seoul HOUR (#Seoul Hall of URbanism And Architecture) one day before its inauguration, for #Seoul Biennale Symposium. Expo on #public housing in #Vienna, #Seoul #3d map (reminiscent of #Seoul Museum of History)... #서울도시건축전시관" (20190327 https://twitter.com/theseoulvillage/status/1110892328120508416)

Seoul Village 2019
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* for instance City Hall in 2012 ("Seoul Tsunami City Hall, The Other Korean Wave"), the DDP in 2013 (see "Sneak peek inside Dongdaemun Design Plaza & Park")
** see "500 m, 80%, 100% urban crappuccino"

#Ribbon Cutting ceremony: #Seoul HOUR inauguration with #Seoul mayor #Park Won-soon and #Seung Hyo-sang.#Seoul Hall Of Urbanism And Architecture #서울도시건축전시관 pic.twitter.com/Mme0XEkU4a

— Seoul Village (@theseoulvillage) March 28, 2019

Sejong-daero winner announced

For the site of the former IRS branch between the Anglican Cathedral and City Hall (see '"Sejongdaero" competition officially started'), Seoul opted for an American team, Terminal 7 Architects.

Their concept, 'Seoul Chronicle', keeps it simple, with a lawn discretely revealing the existence of underground levels - the piece de resistance in last July's brief. Gone from the surface are the pilars of a building that anyway didn't deserve any memorial. The actual stars become the Deoksugung walls and trees, the Cathedral, and passers-by.

So what has been swept under this new green blanket? 3 underground levels of whatever fits in, and more interestingly a vast space that could become a popular venue with its vertical garden and its spectacular urban slice exposing bare layers of Hanyang / Seoul.

As is often the case in this most central neighborhood, more artifacts are likely to be unearthed across the site during the work.

Overall, a rather minimalist approach that comes as a relief compared to "Seoul Tsunami City Hall, The Other Korean Wave" on the other side of Taepyeongno / Sejong-daero. Let's hope local authorities don't plan colorful LED dialogues between both landmarks: there's already enough cuttlefish chatting at night across the capital (City Hall, N-Tower, SMPA...).

Seoul Village 2015
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"Sejongdaero" competition officially started

Seoul officially launched the competition for the 'Sejongdaero' site. Not for the Gwanghwamun Square section* in Jongno-gu, but in Jung-gu, around the IRS annex destroyed earlier this year (see "Tear down that tax office").

Elements of the old IRS annex on Taepyeongno-1-ga are still visible: the contours of the building, and a few columns that may survive as a reminder (often the case in Korea since the Cheonggyecheon restoration).

Architects have less than two months to submit basic designs for the core (1,088 ㎡, 1,600.0㎡ underground), as part of a master plan covering 2,500.0㎡ underground, particularly towards City Hall (for the moment connected to the other side of Sejong-daero - and the city council - through a rather primitive pedestrian tunnel), and - I hope - the subway. 

All submission details are on sejongdaero.org (only in Korean - for the moment?):

Fill the blanks, and the new tooth gap in the middle of Sejong-daero

Speaking of official websites for competitions recently completed: note that seuncitywalk.com has been closed, and that ss7017.org is still raging. Seoul city doesn't communicate around the Seunsangga regeneration project, which has the potential to revive great forsaken parts of the old city center, but keeps selling Seoul Station 7017** as hard as possible, including through massive advertising on site.

Seoul Village 2015
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* reminder: the 'highway' shall not be restored, as initially feared (see "Gwanghwamun, Donhwamun, and the Tale of two Royal Roads"). FYI that stretch used to be called Sejongno, Taepyeongno for the Southern part of Sejong-daero (the names of the 'dong' survived).
** see "Seoul Station 7017 blooms into Seoul Arboretum"

Tear down that tax office

Seoul will destroy a 87 year old building as part of the 70th anniversary of the Liberation. It doesn't seem to be a major asset of the colonial heritage, and hosted the Namdaemun annex of the national tax services - an administration that moved to Sejong City a while ago. A section shall remain as a 'memorial wall'. Seoul citizens, among which a little bit more than 9% were born before the Liberation, are invited to share their own take at 'My Liberation'.

Tearing down a place associated with the Japanese rule and the IRS is likely to appeal to primal instincts among some voters, and that's certainly not the spirit of revenge we want Korea to display for this minefield of an anniversary, unless the aim is to further alienate the public opinion in Japan, and fuel Shinzo Abe's imposture.

That said, this section of Sejong-daero (between Sejong-daero 19 and 21-gil) could look a lot better without it: everybody on the boulevard will enjoy the view on "Seoul-upon-Han and Yeongguk-dong", and not just the occasional (sorry James) rare glimpse at the Anglican Cathedral.

On this view, you can see from left to right the trees lining the Deoksugung, the Cathedral, the old building to be destroyed, the Seoul Metropolitan Council (and its tower), and the side of the Koreana Hotel. Across the street: City Hall, old and new.

As far as former Empires are concerned, the United Kingdom may lose even more than Japan: the end of ye olde quiet days, plus a direct view on the ugliest side of "Seoul Tsunami City Hall, The Other Korean Wave".

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NB: in 1995, for the 50th anniversary of the Liberation, the Japanese Government Building destroying the Bukhansan-Gyeongbokgung-Gwanghwamun perspective was taken down. This tax office somehow obliterates the view to the Deoksugung.

Joint wishes from Seoul City Mayor and Seoul Village Minor

Merry Christmas to you all!

Good!“@theseoulvillage: Just a few files to sort before Christmas, and we're back to you! (with @wonsoonpark)”
twitter.com/wonsoonpark/status/415418083994374144
Just a few files to sort before Christmas, and we're back to you! (with @wonsoonpark in #Seoul City Hall)
twitter.com/theseoulvillage/status/415405587891884032

Seoul Village 2013
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No cablecars in Bukhansan, please

The old Eunpyeong New Town cable car project that raised many critics from environmentalists in the late noughties has been revived yesterday by Seoul Mayor Park Won-soon as a cheap quick fix for recurrent traffic jams between the new town and downtown*. Traffic jams that (sorry for repeating always the same things) should have been avoided in the first place, and public transit solutions considered as core elements of the said new town (an obviousness for any urban planner except - it seems - in this part of the world).

I can't deny the fact that cable cars are cheaper than, say, a railway extension such as the one the same Mayor promised last summer in his initial Seoul Metropolitan Rapid Transit Master Plan, a very ambitious wish list where the Sinbundang Line was supposed to be prolonged to Pyongchang-dong, the infinity and beyond (see "If you ain't broke, fix it: Seoul, Welfare and Railways Deficits). Cable cars are even cheaper than the already environment-unfriendly Eunpyeong-Seochon tunnel considered two years ago, a car-centric nonsense that triggered the following rant from this excuse for a blogger (see "2 more tunnels up North"):

"Eunpyeong-gu definitely needs more connections with the rest of the city, but the priority for a forward looking city should be to develop public transportation, and deter people from using their cars in already saturated areas. 
I mean come on : Seoul is digging tunnels #10 and #11, and not one of them has ever been for a subway or a railway! It's as if the mind frame was set on 1960s and 1970s instead of the new millenium: more people? build more roads, sell more cars! and don't bother with medium / long term consequences! 
This totally contradicts Seoul's efforts to develop tourism and international attractiveness: downtown is not supposed to become again an environmental nightmare and a communication failure."

But Seoul is not Santiago do Chile, where funicular railways made perfect sense to connect higher neighborhoods with the rest of the city. Here, cable cars would follow a roller coaster from ground level to ground level in an endless, preventable eyesore that would totally ruin Bukhansan (via Samgaksan, Bugaksan, Inwangsan), one of the capital's most valuable assets - not to mention, of course, Seoul fortress... and downtown Seoul as a whole, because this monster would go all the way from Gupabal Station to City Hall (either in a straight line of 9.6 km, or in a 11 km course that would pass over Tongil-ro via Yeonsinnae and Dongnimun)! All this to shrink to 20 mn a journey that takes 40-50 mn by car or 30-35 mn by subway!

And they have the gall to sell it as a potential tourist asset as great as the London Cable Car, an urban abomination only topped by the ArcelorMittal Orbit as the most embarrassing erection of the 2012 Olympics (in a city with a recent history already rich in urban disasters). 

Of course the view could be interesting from above, but that's what you'd see from under:

The Emirates Air Line, a.k.a. the London Cable Car, a low cost bridge over River Thames. Now picture that as you stroll around Sejongno, Seochon, or Jeong-dong... "touristic", isn't it?

Brits can do whatever they want over this part of the Thames, I won't let downtown Seoul welcome a new elevated wart, not even a decade after the restoration of Cheonggyecheon.

This project insults the city's past, present and future. Seoul can't fix Eunpyeong New Town's failure by making it even worse and more visible. 

So back to the drawing board, and I'm begging you, next time, please try to look for more sustainable ways.

Seoul Village 2013
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* see "서울시, 은평뉴타운~서울 도심 케이블카 건설 검토 논란" (Chosun Ilbo 20131118)

NO WAY! Park Won-soon considering cablecar connections between Eunpyeong new town and downtown Seoul! Save Bukhansan from this madness!
twitter.com/theseoulvillage/status/402245416474800128

New homes, old stories for Seoul mayor

A couple of weeks after the inauguration of the new city hall*, local authorities announced that Mayor PARK Won-soon would move in March 2013 from his residence in Hyehwa-dong (which had to be abandoned because of the renovation of Seoul fortress**) to a controversial place in Bukchon: a hanok built during the Japanese occupation by relatives of an infamous collaborator. Even if it later belonged to BAEK In-je, the founder of Baek Hospital, some people contested the Mayor's decision.

Today, Korea JoongAng Daily publishes an interesting focus on this two-story hanok, its past and future ("An old, unusual hanok gets a new life"), where we also learn that PARK will eventually move in later than scheduled, next September.

Personally, I have no objection to that move, provided the whole story is properly taught. I'm glad Seoul's top officer will welcome hosts in Jongno-gu's second largest hanok, a rare display of Korean traditional architecture. And after all, wasn't the old City Hall itself - now a library - built by the Japanese?

Furthermore, if you take any luxury hanok built for a Korean VIP during that period and particularly in this neighborhood, chances are the owner was palling around with the occupants anyway. I keep that in mind each time I pass by Bukchon's most touristic hotspot.

Following a "gentlemen's agreement", the Japanese occupants would generally live south of Cheonggyecheon, except of course for the government, or the land claimed over Gyeonghuigung in Shinmunro area. And unsurprisingly, "literary" Seochon was a bit more rebel than Bukchon, an enclave of power between Changdeokgung and Gyeongbokgung***.

I recently mentioned a similar controversy about the name of a palace changed under Japanese rule ("Deoksugung or Gyeongungung?"), and I think the best way to prepare the future is to be as transparent as possible about the past, and to reveal both sides of the coin. If you should boycott all places with a troubled past, most world capitals would be empty.

Some day, spotlights will focus on what happened after the occupation, which ill-gotten assets finished in which hands under which conditions. I'm not sure everybody's ready for that level of transparency.

Seoul Village 2013
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* see previous posts about this landmark, and "Seoul Tsunami City Hall, The Other Korean Wave"
** completion was previously expected by 2014 ("Seoul Fortress Walls (re)completed by 2014"), but now it's by 2015 

**** see "Seochon's Dead Poets Society (YI Sang, YUN Dong-gu)"

A thousand villages, a thousand memories - Seoul Photo Festival 2012

 

The theme of this year's SFF couldn't be more Seoulvillagey: "A thousand villages, a thousand memories", with a focus on the city and its inhabitants, and works by amateurs as well as well know classics from such great masters as my all time fave KIM Gi-chan*. The opportunity to see again Reverend Motoyuki Nomura's 1973 Cheonggyecheon, if you missed the expo at Seoul Museum of History.

Above, a 1950 picture of Namdaemun-ro by KIM Han-yong. Below, a 1972 shot by a certain Hanjeong Sik (in this order, his name means Korean food!), taken in Gyeonji-dong, Jongno-gu - that's the neighborhood around Ujeongguk-ro, Jogyesa's street:

Exhibitions also feature simple souvenir snapshots, and memories as fresh as 2012.

While you're roaming between City Hall, SeMA, the Seoul Museum of History and Gyeonghuigung, don't miss the Jeongdong in 1900 expo (expats in Jeongdong / the Korean pavillion at the Universal Exposition of Paris 1900), and see how the museum of history renewed its permanent collections, leveraging on past exhibitions.

 

Seoul Photo Festival 2012
천 개의 마을, 천 개의 기억 (A thousand villages, a thousand memories - exhibitions and conferences)
Date: 20121121-1230
Venues: Seoul Museum of Art - SeMA, Seoul City Hall, Seoul Museum of History
Tel: Dasan 120 (SFF: 070.8240.9902)
Website: SeoulPhotoFestival.com

Jeongdong in 1900
A Strange coexistence in Jeongdong / The Universal Exposition of Paris 1900
Date: 20121109-20130120
Seoul Museum of History
Tel: Dasan 120
Website: museum.seoul.kr

Seoul Village 2012
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* BTW Noonbit recently reedited series of pictures from their archives in a handy format. I already got the complete work of KIM Gi-chan, and a very interesting collection about Korean markets (mainly from the 80s-90s). You can find these white cinderblocks in most libraries and art galleries across Seoul.

Seoul Tsunami City Hall, The Other Korean Wave

Just a few pictures in case you missed the inauguration of the new Seoul City Hall (October 13).
 
If you wondered why I nicknamed the project "tsunami" as soon as I saw the first models a couple of years ago*, here's the new City Hall about to crash on the old one:
 

 
Note that the old building, erected during the Japanese occupation, has been converted into a library, and that the second floors of both structures are connected by a footbridge.

Actually I took that picture a few days ahead of the inauguration (October 8). I'd been invited, along with other foreign citizens, to shoot a video celebrating the event. Certainly no Academy Award material, but that was fun. The most embarrassing part was to watch said video as soon as I entered the building on inauguration day... scratch that: knowing that it was also displayed the same evening on the big screen over Seoul Plaza, that probably took the cake:
 

 
While I'm on Seoul Plaza. For the inauguration, the idea was to launch the kind of festive yet informal party a rural village would have for a major event. All citizens were invited**, and many came downtown to enjoy a lovely autumn saturday morning:
 

 
Now Seoul Plaza from above, as if you were riding the wave (9th floor, near the cafe). You can see the vegetable garden on the former City Hall's rooftop, and in the distance Sungnyemun, still under wraps:

From inside the surf tube, you see the green wall and the structure that regulate the building's microclimate*:
 

And if you're lucky, Mayor PARK Won-soon says hello in a final wave:
 

Again, I wish the facade backstage (on Sejong-daero 20-gil) were less miserable and more inviting, because this new and improved City Hall must become a passage point and an articulation for pedestrian circulation downtown. But the building is definitely worth a visit, and it already serves its original purpose: connecting the administration and its services to their environment, the streets and subway nearby, and all citizens.
 
Seoul Village 2012
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* see also recently "Seoul Old Towns or New Human Towns? New City Hall or Tsunamheat Wave?"
** including 18 ambassadors. I don't think OH Se-hoon was there, though...