K-Pope mania hits Seoul, Jongno-style

So Pope Francis landed in South Korea, welcomed by the traditional gun salute from the North...

Stalin asked 'The Pope! How many divisions has he got?" North Korea's suggested answer: Pope Francis is worth 5 rockets
twitter.com/theseoulvillage/status/499808764644429825

... and in the advertised set of wheels - only in a darker color than expected:

(July 28) In Seoul, Pope Francis' Soul will be white. And branded Kia.
twitter.com/theseoulvillage/status/493663654928474113
(August 14) Pope Francis' Soul is greyer than scheduled
twitter.com/theseoulvillage/status/499735563646169090

The Pope's program comprises at least 10 stations, from the Blue House today to Myeongdong Cathedral on August 18, with an Assumption mass in Daejeon World Cup Stadium tomorrow, and a mass for the beatification of Korea's 124 martyrs on Gwanghwamun Square the 16th, which requires extra security around Sejongno:

(@pearswick: Korean police to build huge wall inside Seoul for Pope visit - only those registered can enter)
Meet Seoul's inner fortress wall: the one erected downtown for Pope Francis' visit
twitter.com/theseoulvillage/status/495858701853396992

But everything seems ready for the big day:

Gwanghwamun more than ever a cross-road - Seoul's ready for Pope Francis' visit
twitter.com/theseoulvillage/status/499567502276300800

Even I am not taking any chances:

Do something, quick! I don't want to be stuck to 666 followers when Pope Francis visits
twitter.com/theseoulvillage/status/499432267295375361
(PS: thanks to the kind tweeters who lifted me away from that Number of the Beast - even if I won't be saved that easily)

The Pope will also visit several sites in Chungcheongnam-do: Solmoe Shrine in Dangjin, Haemi castle and shrine in Seosan. A stop at the martyr shrine in Seosomun Park is also planned. BTW here's the winning project in a recent competition for this historic site:

Speaking of Seosomun and Catholicism: just off Gwanghwamun, the Seoul Museum of History proposes an exhibition until October 31 on Seoul's East and West small gates (Seosomun and Dongsomun), and the - to say the least - not always festive history of Korean catholicism:

Kim Dae-geon, Korea's first Catholic priest. Among Saenamteo martyrs to be blessed by Pope Francis
twitter.com/theseoulvillage/status/499376326625595393

More tweets about Pope Francis


Seoul Village 2014
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Hyeongjae Sikdang (Seosan)

Back to Seosan Dongbu Market. After the seafood restaurant* and the visit to the fish market, I'm longing for a variety of tastes.

As we walk, I notice two adjumas feasting on an impressive round metal tray : a spicy soup surrounded by a dozen colorful banjan. Much more inspiring than the usual 'dosirak' merchants are delivered on a market. I dare salute them and say it looks really good. Instantly, the older lady stands up and, to my utter embarrassment, walks me to the restaurant.

Hopefully, it's only twenty meters away. The kind merchant / customer / referrer leaves us with an old couple. The small eatery lies at a corner where you can enjoy the view on both a sunny market street and a lively indoor market alley, but while the tenants prepare the fabled plate for our table, we're all watching the Cheonan press conference, a mix between the International Criminal Tribunal and the Nuremberg trial, in absentia KIM Jong-ilis.

We're now in praesentia of our dubu al dang (hot fish egg soup with tofu), surrounded by a classic but delicious jury : clear cabbage broth with shellfish, grilled fish, kongnamul, ketnip, ojingo, fresh algae... simple and tasty food, fresh ingredients, even the rice is excellent.

The unanimous verdict : guilty of first degree yumminess.

Hyeongjae Sikdang / 형재 식당 (restaurant)
Dongbu Market
Seosan, ROK, Chungcheongnam-do
Tel +82 (041) 665.3776

Seoul Village 2010

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* "Seohaean Haemul Mat Jib"
** "Anheung foggy dew"

Seohaean Haemul Mat Jib (Seosan)

Ideally located at the center of the almost peninsula of Northwestern Chungcheongnam-do, Seosan hosts a fairly large and very lively market with a balanced diet of meat, fish, fruits and veggetables. Thanks to the city's rational plan, Dongbu Market is very accessible from the main road, and there are many parkings on both sides.

For seafood, I tried the biggest provider : "West Coast Seafood Restaurant" (서해안 해물맛집) overlooks the main hall from the second floor. Not in a daring mood, I also tried their flavor of the month, jjukumi shabu-shabu - bokkeum (쭈꾸미 샤브샤브 - 볶음).

Since they weren't many jjukumi left, they threw in a couple of nakji (bigger octopus). Alive. I cruelly watched them break dance in their glass domed jjimjilbang, but tenants are even more cruel : with this large transparent lid, they offer you some sick kind of a 3D TV show. You finish the sauce with a traditional bokkeumbap seasoned with gim (dried laver).

Not as exotic a recipe as the "shabeu-shabeu" marketing gimmick said, and not as spicy as Woojeong Nakji, but mean enough, and you can appreciate all the ingredients.

Seohaean Haemul Mat Jib / 서해안 해물맛집 (restaurant)
Dongbu Market Sinchukgeonmul 2F, Seosan, ROK, Chungcheongnam-do
Tel +82 (041) 665.5466


Seoul Village 2010

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