Gangnam rule bended

A couple of years ago in Seoul, two thirds of rich dwellings (over 10 eok or KRW 1 bn) were located in Gangnam-gu. This proportion has now fallen below one fourth.

The main reason is the multiplication of new high end apartment complexes in other districts, and the relative deflation of the Gangnam property bubble. So long for the sometimes insane Gangnam exception.

But many rich Gangnamians (Gangnamites ?) have also migrated to other places, with a revival of Gangbuk and historically wealthy neighborhoods like Yongsan. The town house dream is drawing legions back to traditional residential areas, sometimes through expensive redevelopments (ie Seongbuk Gate Hills in Seongbuk-dong, Hannam The Hill in Hannam-dong...), more often through progressive gentrification.

More hype restaurants and selective retailers are opening or planned North of the river, and it's striking to see the young Korean elite roam East Itaewon-dong on week ends - more schizophrenic than ever, the neighborhood remains an international hub in its Western half -, with a Northern Garosu-gil under way. The cultural revolution started a few years ago with the Leeum, but as far as actual culture is concerned, Jongno-gu remains the bourgeois boheme mecca (ie Samcheong-dong, Seochon).

Seoul Village 2011

KUAI 19 (Seoul)

Restaurants and shops come and go on Garosugil, but KUAI 19 has been here for relatively awhile because it's a good mix of location, food, atmosphere, and cost.

On the Eastern side of the "tree lined street", this Chinese restaurant is a bit closer to Shinsa Station than the other end. The building is not very old but has been smartly refreshed : a balcony focusing on plants instead of the non-existent view, layers of pink and purple paint enlivening bare walls and ceilings... you almost feel like in an old country house. Heck, the other day, between bright summer sun and a quick rain, I almost felt like in onet's home in Giverny ! Inside, it was rather like a bistro in old French Shanghai.

Following a classic formula for Chinese joints, the ground floor is for the take-out and the upper level one big room packing as many customers as possible (about fifty with a quite fast turnover). The room is rather narrow and long : noisy, but you're never far from a window giving on either the balcony or Garosu-gil.

Service is both efficient and friendly, including within the staff of youngsters (ie the closest girl dashes to help you, a boy instantly relieves her from her trays).

Food is more than OK : mainly noodles and mandus, with tasty classics (fried rice, jjajangmyeon, jangpong...), and some innovating twists and a fair price-quality ratio. Perfect for a quick lunch or a power snack.

KUAI 19 (restaurant)
Garosu-gil, 545-19 Shinsa-dong, Gangnam-gu, Seoul, ROK 135-889
Tel +82.2.511.8119 / +82.2.3444.7919 Fax +82.2.3444.7918

Seoul Village 2010