The Gaon will close.
One of the World's best restaurants will die because it dared subliming Korean food in Korea.
Even nowadays, Koreans don't mind paying KRW 3,000 for a tasteless coffee, nor 30,000 for pastas even Yours Truly would cook infinitely better, and socialites commonly accept being ripped off in trendy Western / fusion restaurants... but they find indecent to pay five times less for Korean food1. Not because the low price is an insult to Korean cuisine, but because they find it too high for a Korean restaurant.
Incredibly enough, there is no such thing as a high end Korean restaurant in a Seoul five star hotel. Not anymore : the Shilla closed its own, causing a legitimate uproar. Since I majored in economics, I get the picture... but this is about cultural heritage, about how the World sees Korea.
Like any Korean food lover, I'm glad I can enjoy delicious food for a few thousand wons almost anywhere (for 5 euros in Seoul, you generally eat much better than for 20 in Paris), but I cherished The Gaon experience.
And I know many other Westerners did. Actually, over the past few years I could even tell which big US / European / Asian company would be paying a visit before the restaurant received the call : I only had to check who visited the small review I wrote about The Gaon.
To add insult to injury, my favorite bulgogi in Paris (see "Korean Barbecue") is moving from Rue du Dragon.
Speaking of "bul" (fire)... Remember last February's arson in Namdaemun2 ? The restoration is well under way, and they just selected the pine trees to be fallen - from the same forest where they collected the timber for the previous construction over 6 centuries ago.
I almost forgot : this annus horribilis happens to be also the year of Hope3.
1 - they accept a $500 tag per person in a Western restaurant, but not $100 in a Korean restaurant (see today's Chosun - in Korean : 'A bitter "Korean Globalization"' (20081211)
2 - sad year for Korean National Treasures indeed... see "Namdaemunium"
3 - see "America is a great country"
---
UPDATE 20101215
Korean Barbecue reopens today in Paris : 7 rue de Ponthieu 75008 Paris (Tel : +33.1.4225.3541)
Wednesday, December 10, 2008
Friday, November 14, 2008
Open Air Pool
August 2008. It's been too hot for too long, and I'm receiving the first few drops. Nothing serious yet, but it will change quickly. And I forgot to bring an umbrella.
The first shelter is 10 m behind, a taxi waiting 20 m ahead. I decide to go ahead.
Wrong pick. All of a sudden hell breaks loose and whole buckets start falling over me. The time to reach the cab, I'm soaked to the bone.
The drivers studies me and his face tells it all : "I'm sorry, but I can't take you : you would ruin my seats".
Stupidly standing under the pouring rain, I'm cursing myself. I've got no choice but to walk back home.
And then I realise that I can also swim back home.
Cheonggyecheon is right in front of me but I won't even have to step in : right now, it's as if I were already in the streamlet, taking a shower. Besides, the water feels good and warm. So why not enjoy it fully ?
I'm "swimming" on the sidewalks with a big smile on my face, now. Crammed under small umbrellas, passers-by roll their eyes or smile back. Some look almost jalous. At the Jongno-Sejongno crossing, I meet a fellow swimmer. We wave happily at each other, and for the first time I understand that we are the only ones not looking stupid, after all. It's a beautiful city, a beautiful day, a beautiful moment.
Home is getting closer and I'll have to find a way in without flooding the entrance. But that's a different story.
The first shelter is 10 m behind, a taxi waiting 20 m ahead. I decide to go ahead.
Wrong pick. All of a sudden hell breaks loose and whole buckets start falling over me. The time to reach the cab, I'm soaked to the bone.
The drivers studies me and his face tells it all : "I'm sorry, but I can't take you : you would ruin my seats".
Stupidly standing under the pouring rain, I'm cursing myself. I've got no choice but to walk back home.
And then I realise that I can also swim back home.
Cheonggyecheon is right in front of me but I won't even have to step in : right now, it's as if I were already in the streamlet, taking a shower. Besides, the water feels good and warm. So why not enjoy it fully ?
I'm "swimming" on the sidewalks with a big smile on my face, now. Crammed under small umbrellas, passers-by roll their eyes or smile back. Some look almost jalous. At the Jongno-Sejongno crossing, I meet a fellow swimmer. We wave happily at each other, and for the first time I understand that we are the only ones not looking stupid, after all. It's a beautiful city, a beautiful day, a beautiful moment.
Home is getting closer and I'll have to find a way in without flooding the entrance. But that's a different story.
Gwanghwamun Square
The new Gwanghwamun Square (광화문 광장) will be inaugurated in June 2009.
Actually, the square is a rectangle stretching over 740 m all along Sejongno, from Gwanghwamun itself (still under renovation in its original location) to the Statue of Admiral Yi Sun-shin at the cross with Jongro and Shinmunro.
Until now, eight lanes of traffic were separated by a thin green band hosting old gingko trees. The idea is to develop the central section, open it to the public, and turn the whole street into a large plaza for special occasions. So this rectangle will be 10 to 34 m wide depending on the days, and much bigger if you include the large pavements on both sides.
Actually, the square is a rectangle stretching over 740 m all along Sejongno, from Gwanghwamun itself (still under renovation in its original location) to the Statue of Admiral Yi Sun-shin at the cross with Jongro and Shinmunro.
Until now, eight lanes of traffic were separated by a thin green band hosting old gingko trees. The idea is to develop the central section, open it to the public, and turn the whole street into a large plaza for special occasions. So this rectangle will be 10 to 34 m wide depending on the days, and much bigger if you include the large pavements on both sides.
The street itself will be fully paved to turn the landscape into a continuous plane of mineral and water. Forget about natural shade in the central part... I gather authorities wanted to make sure they could easily monitor crowds in such a strategic space. A reminder ? Within a few hundred meters : Korea's Presidential Grounds (Cheonghwadae) and Central Government buildings, Seoul Metropolitan Police Agency, the US Embassy...
People will access this new cultural hub via lateral pedestrial crossings, and a gentle slope starting from Gwanghwamun Station, under Yi's feet. The Admiral will have some company : a statue of King Sejong himself, a little higher on the strip. After all, this road is named after him, not the great commander. Besides, two Haechi statues are to be installed on each side of Gwanghwamun. And not just to celebrate the new symbol of Seoul (see "Goodbye HiSeoul, hello Haechi") : you can see the stone lions on almost every old picture of Gwanghwamun.
On certain pictures, a streamlet appears in front of the gate. The Junghakcheon, which connected to Cheonggyecheon, will be restored on the Eastern side of the Square, but symbolically : in this one meter wide and five centimeter deep Amazon, even maemis should be safe from drowning (remember "Save Korean Maemis" ?). More spectacular waterworks shall animate Gwanghwamun Square around Yi Sun-shin.
The concept ? 600 hundred years of history celebrated in thematic sections, with a central section devoted to "Art" which, thanks to the new pedestrian crossings, almost draws a bridge between two local cultural spots : the Sejong Cultural Center and the less famous KT Building, a cool place where I like to have a drink while listening to decent jazz (friendly live concerts).
Overall, it will reinstate downtown's traditional center and shorten distances between major cultural places. Passers-by will again own the heart of the city, and enjoy a better view on its most prestigious and beautiful perspective : Yi, Gwanghwamun, Gyeongbokgung, Cheonghwadae, Bukhansan.
---
A movie on the restoration :
People will access this new cultural hub via lateral pedestrial crossings, and a gentle slope starting from Gwanghwamun Station, under Yi's feet. The Admiral will have some company : a statue of King Sejong himself, a little higher on the strip. After all, this road is named after him, not the great commander. Besides, two Haechi statues are to be installed on each side of Gwanghwamun. And not just to celebrate the new symbol of Seoul (see "Goodbye HiSeoul, hello Haechi") : you can see the stone lions on almost every old picture of Gwanghwamun.
On certain pictures, a streamlet appears in front of the gate. The Junghakcheon, which connected to Cheonggyecheon, will be restored on the Eastern side of the Square, but symbolically : in this one meter wide and five centimeter deep Amazon, even maemis should be safe from drowning (remember "Save Korean Maemis" ?). More spectacular waterworks shall animate Gwanghwamun Square around Yi Sun-shin.
The concept ? 600 hundred years of history celebrated in thematic sections, with a central section devoted to "Art" which, thanks to the new pedestrian crossings, almost draws a bridge between two local cultural spots : the Sejong Cultural Center and the less famous KT Building, a cool place where I like to have a drink while listening to decent jazz (friendly live concerts).
Overall, it will reinstate downtown's traditional center and shorten distances between major cultural places. Passers-by will again own the heart of the city, and enjoy a better view on its most prestigious and beautiful perspective : Yi, Gwanghwamun, Gyeongbokgung, Cheonghwadae, Bukhansan.
---
A movie on the restoration :
---
ADDENDUM 20090730 and 20090811
see updates right before the inauguration ("Gwanghwamun Square - Preview") and a few days after ("Gwanghwamun Plaza - The Aftermath").
Seoul Velib'
I enjoyed my first ride on a Seoul city free bicycle, and it definitely beats the Parisian Velib'.
Well... actually, I didn't use the automatic system (not implemented yet in Jongno-gu*), but the simple rental service, a partnership between the "gu" and the condo. Each building has its own 10-bike station, and as a resident, I don't have to pay anything. I just have to check-in and check-out at the management during office hours. When the full systems work, I can just like in France pick up any bike I fancy anywhere and drop it at any station.
On the upside, it's free and there is no time limit : I just have to bring it back before the office closes (the coach wouldn't turn into a pumpkin, but my face might be flushing like a strawberry). And since it works with a standard lock, I can park almost anywhere.
Beyond the concept, the green bicycle itself is really comfortable and quite light : since (unlike Parisians) Seoulites don't tend to vandalize nor steal things, the City didn't have to order Velib'-style 500-pound armored tanks. You wouldn't want to ride the Grey Panzer on such a hilly city. I wish this V1 came with headlights, though.
Another thing : Seoul was not meant for bicycles, and cars keep ruling the traffic. Few drivers are used to 2-wheel vehicles and that can be dangerous, particularily on a big road. Still, the situation is changing dramatically and very quickly : many kids learn to ride, bike shops have been multiplying over the past five years, tens of kilometers of bike lanes are created every year, and the local administration is more than eager to accelerate the process.
If many axes are already covered (ie you can ride marathons along the riversides), some touristic hubs could be improved. For instance, I was disappointed to see** no specific lane or crossing on the Sejongno restoration project in Gwanghwamun, which at least (and at last!) empowers the passer-by at the heart of the city.
Anyway. Lanes or no lanes, Seoul is definitely on the right track.
I rediscovered my native Paris with the Velib' and I intend to do the same in Seoul.
* For instance, Gangnam-gu plans : 250 stations and 3,000 bikes, 30 mn free + 1,000 KRW / 30 mn (see "Bike craze has Seoul putting in a ‘Velib’ program" - JoongAng Ilbo 20081021)
** To be honest, I only saw drawings and paintings of the project... and in this country artist's renderings are as trustable as three-dollar bills, particularily when buildings or real estate are involved.
Well... actually, I didn't use the automatic system (not implemented yet in Jongno-gu*), but the simple rental service, a partnership between the "gu" and the condo. Each building has its own 10-bike station, and as a resident, I don't have to pay anything. I just have to check-in and check-out at the management during office hours. When the full systems work, I can just like in France pick up any bike I fancy anywhere and drop it at any station.
On the upside, it's free and there is no time limit : I just have to bring it back before the office closes (the coach wouldn't turn into a pumpkin, but my face might be flushing like a strawberry). And since it works with a standard lock, I can park almost anywhere.
Beyond the concept, the green bicycle itself is really comfortable and quite light : since (unlike Parisians) Seoulites don't tend to vandalize nor steal things, the City didn't have to order Velib'-style 500-pound armored tanks. You wouldn't want to ride the Grey Panzer on such a hilly city. I wish this V1 came with headlights, though.
Another thing : Seoul was not meant for bicycles, and cars keep ruling the traffic. Few drivers are used to 2-wheel vehicles and that can be dangerous, particularily on a big road. Still, the situation is changing dramatically and very quickly : many kids learn to ride, bike shops have been multiplying over the past five years, tens of kilometers of bike lanes are created every year, and the local administration is more than eager to accelerate the process.
If many axes are already covered (ie you can ride marathons along the riversides), some touristic hubs could be improved. For instance, I was disappointed to see** no specific lane or crossing on the Sejongno restoration project in Gwanghwamun, which at least (and at last!) empowers the passer-by at the heart of the city.
Anyway. Lanes or no lanes, Seoul is definitely on the right track.
I rediscovered my native Paris with the Velib' and I intend to do the same in Seoul.
* For instance, Gangnam-gu plans : 250 stations and 3,000 bikes, 30 mn free + 1,000 KRW / 30 mn (see "Bike craze has Seoul putting in a ‘Velib’ program" - JoongAng Ilbo 20081021)
** To be honest, I only saw drawings and paintings of the project... and in this country artist's renderings are as trustable as three-dollar bills, particularily when buildings or real estate are involved.
Wednesday, November 5, 2008
Korea snubs History
As History unfolded itself yesterday, South Korea lamely produced this first official statement : we will not renegociate the US-ROK FTA.
Come on.
Even Iran came out with a white flag. China's Premier Wen Jiabao made a new display of his great intelligence, and only Russia uttered harsh critics via Dmitri Medvedev.
This is not only the worst way of starting a discussion but an embarrassingly counter-productive way of showing muscle.
Instead of congratulations (not to mention French-style contrition for the way the country is coping with multi-ethnicity at home), this friendly country acted if it were the sole member of an obsolete, Bush-era-, segment-of-one- coalition of the unwilling.
Come on.
Even Iran came out with a white flag. China's Premier Wen Jiabao made a new display of his great intelligence, and only Russia uttered harsh critics via Dmitri Medvedev.
This is not only the worst way of starting a discussion but an embarrassingly counter-productive way of showing muscle.
Instead of congratulations (not to mention French-style contrition for the way the country is coping with multi-ethnicity at home), this friendly country acted if it were the sole member of an obsolete, Bush-era-, segment-of-one- coalition of the unwilling.
Tuesday, September 23, 2008
Forest Dump
Over the last 5 years, 42,513 hectares of forest land vanished in Korea*, 24.3% of which in Gyeonggi-do alone. We are talking about almost one soccer field per hour. And we're talking about a country 55 times smaller than the Amazon Rainforest**.
The Yonhap article gives the details for 52% of the total (23,646 ha - which could cover the 2004-2007 period) :
- 30.5% have been converted into housing land,
- 25.0% into commercial land or factories,
- 22.7% into roads, and an amazing
- 21.8% into golf courses (yes, 5,159 soccer fields)
Yonhap also cites Rep. CHOUNG Hae-gul who pointed out that the number of cases of illegal destruction of forest land rose 20% from 2004 to 2007 (2,070 to 2,492). And the example from the top is not precisely sound : LEE Myung-bak, the former "green" mayor of Seoul who fathered Seoul Forest, wants to cut big chunks of Seoul's green belt in a massive housing program. It won't take long before developers go at the city's biggest lungs : the forests covering its beautiful mountains.
New gardens keep popping up across the city, and I'm happy to see new regulation forcing villa redevelopments to devote part of the land to green spaces, but a significant portions of new public "gardens" are covered with concrete, tasteless fountains, and "ornaments" looking like plastic toys.
They're just breaking ground in front of the Seoul Museum of History on Shinmun-ro, and according to the blueprints, one can expect a net biomass decrease (idem for nearby Sejongno / Gwanghwamun Plaza)...
I also wish the "Hang-gang Renaissance" were more about actual "well being" and less about clumsy "touristization". Seoul is on the right track when it highlights the essential role of its river and streams, but it should make sure that what's built makes sense for the long term.
** 84 times if you consider that 65% of South Korea are classified as forest land (courtesy Park Chung-hee's reforestation program)
KIAF 2008
After China (2002), Japan (2003), Korea (2004), Germany (2005), France (2006), and Spain (2007), the Korea International Art Fair welcomes Switzerland as its star country : 19 galleries, a Swiss Modern Art Exhibition, and a "What You Get Is What You Want" special exhibition for emerging Swiss talents (none of the 9 young artists selected for KIAF Finds Hidden Treasure comes from the guest country).
But KIAF 2009 goes beyond the partnership between the Gallery Association of Korea and Art Galleries Switzerland (AGS) : 20 countries are represented, and 102 of the 218 galleries are foreign. Korea boasts 116 galleries, Europe 65 (Germany 27), Asia 29 (16 from Japan), Americas 7 (USA 5), and Australia 1. Overall, about 1,500 artists and 6,000 works exhibited.
OK. Enough figures. Except maybe the entrance fee : KRW 15,000. Expensive, but the show is worth it.
I was positively impressed by the quality of the selection, much more exciting than what you could find in - say - a FIAC a couple of years ago. Of course, Chinese artists remain quite popular, and Japanese pop art as well (ie Yoshitomo Nara), but there was a definitely European / auteur flavor, and not just because of the guest country. And a refreshing variety.
Pros seemed to be touching wood : in spite of the economic downturn, the contemporary art bubble remains, and this show appears to be a success so let's enjoy it, you never know how things will fare next year...
Korea enjoys a powerful contemporary art ecosystem along the whole chain from creative design schools to wealthy art lovers, galleries hubs across the capital city, Gyeonggi-do and many other regions, regional exhibitions and fairs with an international reach, new landmarks (ie Leeum)... and as the Korean won takes the plunge, foreign buyers can shop at bargain prices.
But offer is exceeding demand, and quantity often comes before quality, the shell before the pearl. Like in Paju : I remember visiting Heyri Art Village in its maiden year, and it looked more like an architectural contest for hipsters than a genuine artistic proposition. Still, Korea has a knack for forcing success in this field.
Like everywhere else, many galleries will fold, though. Or devote more space to their cafes and boutiques to make ends meet. Young talents will face tougher times to reach their publics, but there's still the ASYAAF...
KIAF plays an important role to position the country globally, and this edition surely confirms Korea as a major player. KIAF 2009 will be an interesting test. Unless another art bubble inflates by then, matching 2008 will be difficult. And each exhibitor will be tempted to take little risk. But some may remember that uncertain times tend to spur creativity and the hunger for it.
Seoul Village 2008
KIAF 2008 / Korea International Art Fair
Guest Country-Switzerland
September 19-23, 2008
Pacific Hall and Indian Hall, COEX, World Trade Center
Samsung-dong, Seoul, ROK 135-731
Visitors can also enjoy synergies with Busan Biennale (until november).
But KIAF 2009 goes beyond the partnership between the Gallery Association of Korea and Art Galleries Switzerland (AGS) : 20 countries are represented, and 102 of the 218 galleries are foreign. Korea boasts 116 galleries, Europe 65 (Germany 27), Asia 29 (16 from Japan), Americas 7 (USA 5), and Australia 1. Overall, about 1,500 artists and 6,000 works exhibited.
OK. Enough figures. Except maybe the entrance fee : KRW 15,000. Expensive, but the show is worth it.
I was positively impressed by the quality of the selection, much more exciting than what you could find in - say - a FIAC a couple of years ago. Of course, Chinese artists remain quite popular, and Japanese pop art as well (ie Yoshitomo Nara), but there was a definitely European / auteur flavor, and not just because of the guest country. And a refreshing variety.
Pros seemed to be touching wood : in spite of the economic downturn, the contemporary art bubble remains, and this show appears to be a success so let's enjoy it, you never know how things will fare next year...
Korea enjoys a powerful contemporary art ecosystem along the whole chain from creative design schools to wealthy art lovers, galleries hubs across the capital city, Gyeonggi-do and many other regions, regional exhibitions and fairs with an international reach, new landmarks (ie Leeum)... and as the Korean won takes the plunge, foreign buyers can shop at bargain prices.
But offer is exceeding demand, and quantity often comes before quality, the shell before the pearl. Like in Paju : I remember visiting Heyri Art Village in its maiden year, and it looked more like an architectural contest for hipsters than a genuine artistic proposition. Still, Korea has a knack for forcing success in this field.
Like everywhere else, many galleries will fold, though. Or devote more space to their cafes and boutiques to make ends meet. Young talents will face tougher times to reach their publics, but there's still the ASYAAF...
KIAF plays an important role to position the country globally, and this edition surely confirms Korea as a major player. KIAF 2009 will be an interesting test. Unless another art bubble inflates by then, matching 2008 will be difficult. And each exhibitor will be tempted to take little risk. But some may remember that uncertain times tend to spur creativity and the hunger for it.
Seoul Village 2008
KIAF 2008 / Korea International Art Fair
Guest Country-Switzerland
September 19-23, 2008
Pacific Hall and Indian Hall, COEX, World Trade Center
Samsung-dong, Seoul, ROK 135-731
Visitors can also enjoy synergies with Busan Biennale (until november).
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