To be honest, this is not my favorite place for gopchang* (small tripes and intestines), but it's the closest to home : on Gyeonghuigung 1-gil, very close to Saemunan-gil, among the first houses giving on the newly rearranged plaza in front of the Seoul Museum of History.
Not memorable, including for the atmosphere, but perfect when I need a quick fix of gopchang jeongol (stew 곱창전골) or gopchang gui (grilled 곱창구이). About 20k wons for two. Among other "massive" classics on their menu : budae jjigae.
1-151 Shinmunro 2-ga, Jongno-gu, SEOUL, ROK 110-062
Bukcheongol / 북천골 (restaurant)
Tel: +82.2.720.3550
* for gopchang gui, there's that one about to be destroyed in Wangshimni New Town, plus that minuscule shanty marvel lost in my memory not far from Dehangno
Sunday, May 31, 2009
Saturday, May 30, 2009
Gogi SSam Naengmyeon (Seoul)
"Meat and cold noodle combo"... here again, the name tells it all. The price too : KRW 5,000 for the standard pack plus 500 wons for the bigger size. Cold noodles alone go for 4,500, so most people come for the pack.
In Myeong-dong more than anywhere else, restaurants cannot survive if they don't taste good. This one could increase prices by almost 30% overnight (until March 27, noodles were at 3,500) without losing its momentum : during rush hours, you may still have to queue after twenty people (about 10-20 mn should do).
Gogi Ssam Naengmyeon is so successful it opened a second restaurant down the same narrow street (even after Myeongdong's revival, the least glamorous part of the maze). I never tried that second one, which looks narrower and less comfortable, but stretches over three floors. Both have a view on the street, but more customers can enjoy it in the original - and wider - building.
Food now. Noodles come in the two usual varieties : a standard mul naengmyeon (in icy water), and a killer bibim naengmyeon ("mixed") with a mean red pepper powder you can tame with the free hot chicken feet broth. The pork is well seasoned and grilled - formatted for local taste buds, but not toooo sweet.
You pay in advance and have to help yourself to water and broth, but dishes are served at your table, which you don't have to clean afterwards.
Overall : definitely not haute cuisine, but definitely a yummy bargain in a friendly atmosphere.
Thus the success in such a demanding area. Young pairs make most of the clientele, and you often see two friends sharing one pack, but not necessarily for a question of budget : you cannot BOTH enjoy many Myeongdong street snacks AND swallow this pack.
SM 200905
Gogi SSam Naengmyeon / 고기쌈냉면 (restaurant)
no telephone / no reservation / no frills
no address either ! On the west side of Myeong-dong 2-gil, across the Savoy Hotel, at the frontier between Chungmuro 1-ga and Myeong-dong 2-ga. My best guess, after checking the map : 22-2 Chungmuro 1-ga.
see other restaurants in Seoul and Korea.
In Myeong-dong more than anywhere else, restaurants cannot survive if they don't taste good. This one could increase prices by almost 30% overnight (until March 27, noodles were at 3,500) without losing its momentum : during rush hours, you may still have to queue after twenty people (about 10-20 mn should do).
Gogi Ssam Naengmyeon is so successful it opened a second restaurant down the same narrow street (even after Myeongdong's revival, the least glamorous part of the maze). I never tried that second one, which looks narrower and less comfortable, but stretches over three floors. Both have a view on the street, but more customers can enjoy it in the original - and wider - building.
Food now. Noodles come in the two usual varieties : a standard mul naengmyeon (in icy water), and a killer bibim naengmyeon ("mixed") with a mean red pepper powder you can tame with the free hot chicken feet broth. The pork is well seasoned and grilled - formatted for local taste buds, but not toooo sweet.
You pay in advance and have to help yourself to water and broth, but dishes are served at your table, which you don't have to clean afterwards.
Overall : definitely not haute cuisine, but definitely a yummy bargain in a friendly atmosphere.
Thus the success in such a demanding area. Young pairs make most of the clientele, and you often see two friends sharing one pack, but not necessarily for a question of budget : you cannot BOTH enjoy many Myeongdong street snacks AND swallow this pack.
SM 200905
Gogi SSam Naengmyeon / 고기쌈냉면 (restaurant)
no telephone / no reservation / no frills
no address either ! On the west side of Myeong-dong 2-gil, across the Savoy Hotel, at the frontier between Chungmuro 1-ga and Myeong-dong 2-ga. My best guess, after checking the map : 22-2 Chungmuro 1-ga.
see other restaurants in Seoul and Korea.
Thursday, May 28, 2009
A Yellow Sea For Roh Moo-hyun
Downtown submerged by a tsunami of yellow ribbons, arm bands, hair pins, hats, and balloons.
Not at the Gyeongbokgung today : the color of Roh Moo-hyun's campaigns was strictly forbidden at the site of the official ceremony.
Also forbidden : Kim Dae-jung's eulogy for his successor. This request from the family was turned down by his successor's successor... a measure of respect to other former Presidents according to Lee Myung-bak, a setback for democracy according to the 2000 Nobel Peace Prize laureate.
Also forbidden : Seoul Plaza, closed to mourners until today, for fear of a remake of last year's massive demonstrations. Roh sympathizers improvised the first altar just across the street, in front of Deoksugung's gate, the very morning when he died*. Local and foreign V.I.P.s waited for a more exclusive altar to be opened, a few days later, at the Seoul Museum of History. Both sites felt silent, but one did sound a little more sincere than the other.
Above, the head of the convoy on Sejongno, as it leaves Gyeongbokgung for Seoul Plaza and Roh Moo-hyun's Yellow Sea of supporters.
Right, Roh's collaborators, following the deceased and singing the song that cemented their cause for democracy.
* See "Roh Moo-hyun follows Pierre Beregovoy".
Wednesday, May 27, 2009
Seoul 25 "Gu" - Seoul Map
View Seoul Village in a larger map
Dobong-gu (도봉구) - dobong.go.kr
Created in 1949.
20.8 km² - 381,000 inhabitants - 15 administrative dong (4 main).
To name a few : Dobongsan (mountain), Yonsangunmyo...
Dongdaemun-gu (동대문구) - ddm.go.kr
Created in 1943 (initial 7 gu).
14.2 km² - 386,000 inhabitants - 26 administrative dong (10 main).
To name a few : Seoul Yangnyeonsi (traditional medicine market), antique and flea markets, Royal Joseon Tombs, Dongdaemun Design Plaza area... Note that Dongdaemun itself (Heunginjimun) is located in Jongno-gu.
Dongjak-gu (동작구) - dongjak.go.kr
Created in 1980 (split from Gwanak-gu).
16.35 km² - 405,000 inhabitants - 17 administrative dong (8 main).
To name a few : Noryangjin Fish Market, National Cemetery, Boramae Park, Sayuksin Park...
Eunpyeong-gu (은평구) - eunpyeong.seoul.kr
Created in 1979 (separated from Seodaemun-gu).
29.7 km² - 443,000 inhabitants (2000 - to improve dramatically with Eunpyeong New Town) - 20 administrative dong (11 main).
To name a few : Bukhansan, Bukhansanseong (fortress wall)...
Gangbuk-gu (강북구) - gangbuk.seoul.kr
Created in 1995 (another Dobong-gu spin off)
23.6 km² - 341,000 inhabitants - 18 administrative dong (9 main).
To name a few : Bukhansan...
Gangdong-gu (강동구) - gangdong.go.kr
Created in 1979 (split from Gangnam-gu)
24.5 km² - 469,000 inhabitants (2007) - 18 administrative dong (9 main).
To name a few : Amsa-dong Prehistoric site...
Gangnam-gu (강남구) - gangnam.go.kr
Created in 1975
39.5 km² - 557,000 inhabitants - 26 administrative dong (12 main).
To name a few : Apgujeong-dong, Cheongdam-dong, Teheranno, COEX, Solleung, Jeongneung Royal Joseon Tombs...
Gangseo-gu (강서구) - gangseo.seoul.kr
Created in 1977 (scission from Yeongdeungpo-gu)
41.4 km² - 557,000 inhabitants - 22 administrative dong (8 main).
To name a few : Gimpo Airport, Yangcheon Hyanggyo...
Geumcheon-gu (금천구) - geumcheon.go.kr
Created in 1995 (split from Guro-gu).
13.0 km² - 257,000 inhabitants - 12 administrative dong (3 main).
To name a few : Samseongsan, Anyangcheon...
Guro-gu (구로구) - guro.go.kr
Created in 1980 (split from Yeongdeungpo-gu).
20.1 km² - 416,000 inhabitants - 15 administrative dong (7 main).
To name a few : Guro Digital Industrial Complex...
Gwanak-gu (관악구) - gwanak.go.kr
Created in 1973
29.57 km² - 522,000 inhabitants - 21 administrative dong (3 main).
To name a few : Seoul National University, Gwanak-san, Nakseongdae...
Gwangjin-gu (광진구) - gwangjin.go.kr
Created in 1995 (separated from Seongdong-gu)
17.05 km² - 381,000 inhabitants - 15 administrative dong (8 main).
To name a few : Children's Grand Park, Techno Mart, Ttukseom...
Jongno-gu (종로구) - jongno.go.kr
Created in 1943 (initial 7 gu).
23.9 km² - 180,000 inhabitants - 87 administrative dong (19 main) - see Seoul Village focus on Jongno-gu dongs.
To name a few (impossible to list all attractions of Seoul's historical center) : palaces and shrines (Gyeongbokgung, Changdeokgung / Changgyeonggung, Jongmyo, Gyeonghuigung, Unhyungung, Sajik-dan...), museums (National Palace Museum, Seoul Museum of History, National Folk Museum of Korea, corporate museums...), art galleries (particularly near Insadong, Shinmunro, Pyeongchang-dong, Sogyeok-dong...), touristic areas (Gwanghwamun Square / Sejongno, Cheonggyecheon, Insadong, Bukchon, Samcheong-dong, Jogyesa temple...)...
Jung-gu (중구) - junggu.seoul.kr
Created in 1943 (initial 7 gu).
9.96 km² - 135,000 inhabitants - 74 administrative dong (15 main).
To name a few : Sungnyemun (Namdaemun gate), Deoksugung, SeMa, Namsan (and the National Theater of Korea), Namdaemun market, Myeong-dong, Shinsegae and Lotte main department stores... Shared with Yongsan-gu : Namsan (N Tower is on the Yongsan part of the mountain) and Seoul Station (the original building belongs to Jung-gu, KTX area lies on Yongsan turf).
Jungnang-gu (중랑구) - eng.jungnang.seoul.kr
Created in 1988 (formerly a part of Dongdaemun-gu)
18.5 km² - 441,000 inhabitants - 20 administrative dong (6 main).
To name a few : Yongmasan, Jungnangcheon...
Mapo-gu (마포구) - mapo.seoul.kr
Created in 1944 (from Seodaemun-gu and Yongsan-gu).
23.87 km² - 393,000 inhabitants - 24 administrative dong (16 main).
To name a few : Hongdae area, Sangam (and Seoul World Cup Stadium), Digital Media City...
Nowon-gu (노원구) - nowon.kr
Created in 1988 (split from Dobong-gu).
35.44 km² - 619,000 inhabitants - 24 administrative dong (5 main).
See Nowon-gu maps and this focus.To name a few : Nowon Station area, Suraksan, Buramsan, Taegangneung, Jungnangcheon and Danghyeoncheon...
Seocho-gu (서초구) - english.seocho.go.kr
Created in 1988 (from Yeongdeungpo-gu / Gangnam-gu)
47.1 km² - 402,000 inhabitants - 18 administrative dong (10 main).
To name a few : Seoul Art Center, Heoninneung, Express Bus Terminal, Seorae Maeul (Seorae Village or "Little France")...
Seodaemun-gu (서대문구) - eng.sdm.go.kr
Created in 1943 (initial 7 gu).
17.6 km² - 356,000 inhabitants - 20 administrative dong (14 main).
To name a few : Seodaemun Prison and Dongnimmun (Independence Gate), Bongwonsa (temple), Yonsei University, Ewha Womens University and Sinchon...
Seongbuk-gu (성북구) - english.seongbuk.go.kr
Created in 1973 (from Dongdaemun).
24.5 km² - 470,000 inhabitants - 39 administrative dong (20 main).
To name a few : Uireung, Seongbuk-dong, Bugak skyway, Gaeunsan, Sukjeongmun (Bukmun)...
Seongdong-gu (성동구) - sd.go.kr
Created in 1943 (initial 7 gu).
16.85 km² - 325,000 inhabitants - 20 administrative dong (17 main).
To name a few : Seoul Forest...
Songpa-gu (송파구) - songpa.go.kr
Created in 1988 (from Gangdong-gu)
33.9 km² - 650,000 inhabitants - 26 administrative dong (14 main).
To name a few : Olympic Park and Olympic Sports Complex, Lotte World and Seokchon Lake, Garak Market, Seongnaecheon...
Yangcheon-gu (양천구) - yangchon.seoul.kr
Created in 1988 (from Gangseo-gu).
17.4 km² - 485,000 inhabitants - 18 administrative dong (3 main).
To name a few : Yongwangsan, Anyang creek...
Yeongdeungpo-gu (영등포구) - english.ydp.go.kr
Created in 1943 (initial 7 gu).
24.5 km² - 439,000 inhabitants - 33 administrative dong (18 main).
To name a few : Yeouido (park, National Assembly, 63 Building...), International Finance Center, Bamsom, Yeongdeungpo Park...
Yongsan-gu (용산구) - yongsan.go.kr
Created in 1943 (initial 7 gu).
21.9 km² - 239,000 inhabitants - 36 administrative dong (16 main).
To name a few : National Museum of Korea and Yongsan Family Park, Itaewon, Leeum, Central Masjid (Mosque), Yongsan US Army Base (to be relocated in Pyeongtaek in 2013 and replaced by a central park), War Memorial of Korea, Namsan (and N Tower), Hyochang Park, Yongsan Electronics Market...
Map of Seoul districts : source creative commons (dxf-Data by Ralf, png by Stefan-Xp, labels by iGEL), customized with links (by Stephane MOT)
ADDENDUM 2020
I made this short video to explain the urban core of Seoul, the original city intra muros (within its fortress walls). A dynamic map to locate key mountains and streams, landmarks, vertical and horizontal axes...
Seoul Village
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Friday, May 22, 2009
Roh Moo-hyun follows Pierre Beregovoy
When I read this morning about the tragic fate of former President Roh Moo-hyun, I thought about Pierre Beregovoy, Francois Mitterrand's last prime minister who supposedly committed suicide while under investigation for corruption.
Suicide or not suicide, this not the issue here. Both Beregovoy and Roh came from modest backgrounds, succeeded in politics as outsiders, and ended up in a tragic fate, soon after leaving the top, their main asset, the positive image on which they built their successes, shattered to pieces.
This morning, I made this stupid dream* that Roh's final bow could wake up Korea, help it reconsider politics, put down the guns, and start a vast operation of transparence. To help talents truly motivated by change emerge from the crowd, but also to protect them as they climb to the top of this beautiful yet slippery mountain.
* see my blogule : "Roh Moo-hyun, le promeneur du champ de mai"
Suicide or not suicide, this not the issue here. Both Beregovoy and Roh came from modest backgrounds, succeeded in politics as outsiders, and ended up in a tragic fate, soon after leaving the top, their main asset, the positive image on which they built their successes, shattered to pieces.
This morning, I made this stupid dream* that Roh's final bow could wake up Korea, help it reconsider politics, put down the guns, and start a vast operation of transparence. To help talents truly motivated by change emerge from the crowd, but also to protect them as they climb to the top of this beautiful yet slippery mountain.
* see my blogule : "Roh Moo-hyun, le promeneur du champ de mai"
Happiness according to Le Clezio
A refreshing and peaceful afternoon at Kyobo Life's headquarters, listening to Jean-Marie Gustave Le Clezio talking about representations of happiness in literature.
Somehow, the "happiness in literature" coming from writing or reading went without saying.
Praise The Daesan Foundation and Ewha Womens University for this moment.
PS : I feel too relaxed (and yeah, probably also a little bit too lazy) to translate the miserable blogule I spilled in my native language ("Le bonheur selon Le Clezio").
Somehow, the "happiness in literature" coming from writing or reading went without saying.
Praise The Daesan Foundation and Ewha Womens University for this moment.
PS : I feel too relaxed (and yeah, probably also a little bit too lazy) to translate the miserable blogule I spilled in my native language ("Le bonheur selon Le Clezio").
Thursday, May 21, 2009
Jongno-gu dongs
Seoul's 600 year-old center, Jongno-gu, stretches over 23.9 km² and comprises 19 dong (administrative areas).
That very much matches the average: I divided Seoul's superficy (605.25 km²) and total of "dongs" (522) into 25 (the number of "gu" or districts), and got averages of 24.2 km² and 20.8 dong.
But beyond these 19 "administrative" dong (행정동) lie 87 "court" dong (법정동), most dating from the early Joseon dynasty. Many "dong" names are engraved in national history and literature. Some designate functions, because of the kind of offices or services you would find in the area.
Most dongs are simply microscopic: taking out Pyeongchang-dong (8.92 km²) leaves an average 0.17 km² for its 86 peers, and a significant portion of what's left is covered by vast mountains, parks, or royal palaces.
Regroupments, renamings, and even extensions were performed all along the XXth century, most notably:
Buam-dong (부암동 - 3 court dongs): Buam-dong, Hongji-dong, Sinyeong-dong.
Changsin 1-dong (창신1동 - 1/3): Changsin-dong (covers 3 administrative dongs).
Changsin 2-dong (창신2동 - 1/3): Changsin-dong (covers 3 administrative dongs).
Changsin 3-dong (창신3동 - 1/3): Changsin-dong (covers 3 administrative dongs).
Cheongun-dong (청운동 - 3): Cheongun-dong, Gungjeong-dong, Singyo-dong.
Gahoe-dong (가회동 - 4): Gahoe-dong, Jae-dong, Gye-dong, Wonseo-dong.
Gyonam-dong (교남동 - 6): Gyobuk-dong, Gyonam-dong, Haengchon-dong (Hengchon-dong), Hongpa-dong, Pyeong-dong, Songwol-dong.
Hyehwa-dong (혜화동 - 4): Hyehwa-dong, Myeongnyun-dong 1-ga, Myeongnyun-dong 2-ga, Myeongnyun-dong 4-ga.
Hyoja-dong (효자동 - 6): Changseong-dong, Hyoja-dong, Nuha-dong, Nusang-dong, Ogin-dong, Tongin-dong.
Ihwa-dong (이화동 - 3): Dongsung-dong, Ihwa-dong, Yeongeon-dong.
Jongno 1.2.3.4 ga-dong (종로1.2.3.4가동 - 28): Bongik-dong, Cheongjin-dong, Doneui-dong, Gongpyeong-dong, Gwancheol-dong, Gwanhoon-dong, Gwansu-dong, Gwonnong-dong, Gyeongun-dong, Gyeonji-dong, Hoonjeong-dong (Hunjeong-dong), Ikseon-dong, Ineui-dong, Insa-dong (Insadong), Jangsa-dong, Jongno 1-ga, Jongno 2-ga, Jongno 3-ga, Jongno 4-ga, Junghak-dong, Myo-dong, Nagwon-dong, Seolin-dong, Susong-dong, Waryong-dong, Wonnam-dong, Wooni-dong, Yoeji-dong.
Jongno 5.6 ga-dong (종로5.6가동 - 5): Chungsin-dong, Hyojoe-dong, Jongno 5-ga, Jongno 6-ga, Yeonji-dong.
Muak-dong (무악동 - 1): Muak-dong.
Myeongnyun 3-ga-dong (명륜3가동 - 1): Myeongnyun-dong 3-ga.
Pyeongchang-dong (평창동 - 2): Gugi-dong, Pyeongchang-dong.
Sajik-dong (사직동 - 12): Chebu-dong, Dangju-dong, Doryeom-dong, Jeokseon-dong, Naeja-dong, Naesu-dong, Pilun-dong, Sajik-dong, Sejongno-dong (세종로동), Shinmunro 1-ga, Shinmunro 2-ga, Tongeui-dong (Tongui-dong).
Samcheong-dong (삼청동 - 7): Anguk-dong, Hwa-dong, Palpan-dong, Sagan-dong, Samcheong-dong, Sogyeok-dong, Songhyeon-dong.
Sungin 1-dong (숭인1동 - 1/2): Sungin-dong (covers 2 administrative dongs).
Sungin 2-dong (숭인2동 - 1/2): Sungin-dong (covers 2 administrative dongs).
Jongno-gu keeps changing very quickly, and it's getting hard not to bump into areas under redevelopment. Population should increase significantly in the years to come. There are only 180,000 inhabitants nowadays, but registered population tops 1.4 M, and 2M people live there during daytime (many office headquarters). Some dongs may disappear (ie Pyeong-dong in the future Gyonam New Town / Dongnimmun New Town).
SM 2009
That very much matches the average: I divided Seoul's superficy (605.25 km²) and total of "dongs" (522) into 25 (the number of "gu" or districts), and got averages of 24.2 km² and 20.8 dong.
But beyond these 19 "administrative" dong (행정동) lie 87 "court" dong (법정동), most dating from the early Joseon dynasty. Many "dong" names are engraved in national history and literature. Some designate functions, because of the kind of offices or services you would find in the area.
Most dongs are simply microscopic: taking out Pyeongchang-dong (8.92 km²) leaves an average 0.17 km² for its 86 peers, and a significant portion of what's left is covered by vast mountains, parks, or royal palaces.
Regroupments, renamings, and even extensions were performed all along the XXth century, most notably:
- on April 1, 1914: under the Japanese Occupation, redistribution and renaming of the city's 186 dongs, implementation of Japanese namings. This completed the 1910 degradation of the Capital as "Gyeongseong-bu", an almost anomymous section of Gyeonggi-do, part of the annihilation of all references to Korea's identity as an independant power. Note that when Gyeongseong was renamed Seoul on August 15th, 1948, it gained a status of "Special City" which somehow marked, beyond the independence from Gyeonggi-do, the independence from colonial rule (the final "Seoul Teukbyeolsi" label was awarded exactly one year later). Jongno-gu heads the other 6 districts : Dongdaemun-gu, Jung-gu, Seodaemun-gu, Seongdong-gu, Yeongdeungpo-gu, and Yongsan-gu.
- on October 1, 1946: many renamings, mostly denipponification reversing changes made during the Occupation.
- in 1949: Seongbuk-dong, now a diplomats' lair on the other side of the Samcheong Tunnel but traditionally a Beverly Hills for Chaebol owners, leaves Jongno-gu for newly formed Seongbuk-gu
- on October 1, 1975: new city regulations ruled on September 23, 1975 extended Jongno-gu's jurisdictions well beyond the old intra muros city, most notably :
. to the West: Muak-dong and Gyonam-dong added from Seodaemun-gu. Gyonam is on the "wrong" side of the old Dongnimmun gate and the fortress wall, but after the completion of Sajik tunnel, it obviously completed a newly formed large block around Gyeonghuigung. Incorporating Muak-dong adds the other side of Inwangsan.
. to the East: Sungin-dong and Changsin-dong taken from Dongdaemun-gu, completing the "sadaemun" tableau (the gu now encompasses the 4 main gates)
. to the North: Buam-dong and Pyeongchang-dong join the party, wrapping Bugaksan in the gu, and putting Cheonghwadae and Gyeongbokgung, symbols of yesterday's and today's power, in the center of the map.
Buam-dong (부암동 - 3 court dongs): Buam-dong, Hongji-dong, Sinyeong-dong.
Changsin 1-dong (창신1동 - 1/3): Changsin-dong (covers 3 administrative dongs).
Changsin 2-dong (창신2동 - 1/3): Changsin-dong (covers 3 administrative dongs).
Changsin 3-dong (창신3동 - 1/3): Changsin-dong (covers 3 administrative dongs).
Cheongun-dong (청운동 - 3): Cheongun-dong, Gungjeong-dong, Singyo-dong.
Gahoe-dong (가회동 - 4): Gahoe-dong, Jae-dong, Gye-dong, Wonseo-dong.
Gyonam-dong (교남동 - 6): Gyobuk-dong, Gyonam-dong, Haengchon-dong (Hengchon-dong), Hongpa-dong, Pyeong-dong, Songwol-dong.
Hyehwa-dong (혜화동 - 4): Hyehwa-dong, Myeongnyun-dong 1-ga, Myeongnyun-dong 2-ga, Myeongnyun-dong 4-ga.
Hyoja-dong (효자동 - 6): Changseong-dong, Hyoja-dong, Nuha-dong, Nusang-dong, Ogin-dong, Tongin-dong.
Ihwa-dong (이화동 - 3): Dongsung-dong, Ihwa-dong, Yeongeon-dong.
Jongno 1.2.3.4 ga-dong (종로1.2.3.4가동 - 28): Bongik-dong, Cheongjin-dong, Doneui-dong, Gongpyeong-dong, Gwancheol-dong, Gwanhoon-dong, Gwansu-dong, Gwonnong-dong, Gyeongun-dong, Gyeonji-dong, Hoonjeong-dong (Hunjeong-dong), Ikseon-dong, Ineui-dong, Insa-dong (Insadong), Jangsa-dong, Jongno 1-ga, Jongno 2-ga, Jongno 3-ga, Jongno 4-ga, Junghak-dong, Myo-dong, Nagwon-dong, Seolin-dong, Susong-dong, Waryong-dong, Wonnam-dong, Wooni-dong, Yoeji-dong.
Jongno 5.6 ga-dong (종로5.6가동 - 5): Chungsin-dong, Hyojoe-dong, Jongno 5-ga, Jongno 6-ga, Yeonji-dong.
Muak-dong (무악동 - 1): Muak-dong.
Myeongnyun 3-ga-dong (명륜3가동 - 1): Myeongnyun-dong 3-ga.
Pyeongchang-dong (평창동 - 2): Gugi-dong, Pyeongchang-dong.
Sajik-dong (사직동 - 12): Chebu-dong, Dangju-dong, Doryeom-dong, Jeokseon-dong, Naeja-dong, Naesu-dong, Pilun-dong, Sajik-dong, Sejongno-dong (세종로동), Shinmunro 1-ga, Shinmunro 2-ga, Tongeui-dong (Tongui-dong).
Samcheong-dong (삼청동 - 7): Anguk-dong, Hwa-dong, Palpan-dong, Sagan-dong, Samcheong-dong, Sogyeok-dong, Songhyeon-dong.
Sungin 1-dong (숭인1동 - 1/2): Sungin-dong (covers 2 administrative dongs).
Sungin 2-dong (숭인2동 - 1/2): Sungin-dong (covers 2 administrative dongs).
Jongno-gu keeps changing very quickly, and it's getting hard not to bump into areas under redevelopment. Population should increase significantly in the years to come. There are only 180,000 inhabitants nowadays, but registered population tops 1.4 M, and 2M people live there during daytime (many office headquarters). Some dongs may disappear (ie Pyeong-dong in the future Gyonam New Town / Dongnimmun New Town).
SM 2009
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